I haven't had any fluid in my power steering pump for quite a while (I had been driving with the reservoir empty since the gearbox wouldn't hold fluid)and was wondering if I should flush it out before I use it again. What I mean by that is should I run both hoses to a bucket, fill it with fluid and run the engine to get the old stuff out? I just installed a rebuilt p/s box so I want everything to be clean. Thanks

Also, now that I put the box in my steering wheel is 90 degrees to the left from where it should be when going straight. Does this mean I need an alignment? The pitman arm is where it should be along with everything else.

Be sure to clean it several times-use top quality products.
Anytime you work with the steering system its a good time to check the front end and alignment graemlins/hurray.gif

Just a thought. Did you have a belt on the pump when it was dry? If so, you may just want to get a new (or rebuilt) pump. You can try it first, but you may have to change it pretty quick.

I've never had good luck after running a pump dry...but I hope you have better luck. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Yeah the belt was on there. It's still moist inside though and there was some fluid in the lines when I removed it, I guess we'll see.

Ditto on the comment above. If you have been driving with no oil in the power steering pump and the belt spinning the pump, you will need a new pump.

Here is a complete procedure for centering your steering wheel. Park your car in a place where you can work on it yet be able to drive it straight ahead a short distance to check how it tracks.

First rotate your steering wheel from full lock in one direction to full lock in the other and count the total number of revolutions of the steering wheel. Divide that number in half. Now go to full lock turn in either direction and come back exactly one half your number of steering wheel turns. Now your steering gear is exactly on center.

With your gear is right on center, your flexible coupling that is attached to your gear input shaft should have its stop pins exactly vertical (12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions). The attaching pinch bolt should also be vertical and passing through the 9 o'clock position. The head of the bolt should be such that you can reach over your fender and drive it home.

Open the hood and take a crayon or piece of chalk and make a mark right on the top of the flexible steering shaft coupling. Now you have a mark that you can reference when your gear is right on center.

Now drive the car forward. With your gear right on center, does the car go straight? Or does it track to the right or left? You can now adjust the left and right tie rods by turning them in the same direction and turning them exactly the same number of revolutions. Loosen the tie rod adjuster clamps on both the left and right tie rods, then turn both tubes an equal number of turns in the same direction to bring the gear back on center. DO NOT turn the sleeves an unequal number of turns or you will change your front wheel toe settings.

You will find that turning them one direction will make the tracking problem worse, turning in the other direction will bring you back on a straight course. By turning both tie rods the same you will not disturb your front wheel toe setting (assuming it was correct to begin with).

Now you have the car tracking straight ahead with the gear on center. You can now address the steering column. With the wheels straight ahead and your steering gear on center, now check your steering wheel alignment. The 6 o'clock spoke measured right at the steering wheel rim should be within 1 inch of being exactly at the bottom. If the wheel is not in alignment, remove it and reindex the steering column hub to center the wheel.