i just bought a big puzzle. 64 el camino with a 427 and 4 speed. i know i have to replace the springs, but how long (if i don't hammer it) can i get away with the stock a-arms. yes i'd like to go heavy tubular, but right now i'd like to just get it all together. leaving the stock front for now would save me $. i only drive about one day a week and i don't have any hard corners between here and work. will they hold up, or do i have to bite the bullet and get them now?

Stock arms can crack but it's not like it happens everyday. If they look like they are in good condition, use them. The majority of Chevelles on the road are running on stock arms. I wouldn't worry about it.

Tim.

I agree with Tim... Some arms crack...

But in all my years of having Chevelles (22+), I have never had one crack, nor known anyone personally that had it happen... Not that you shouldn't check, but not a daily occurrance. With anything 40 years old, metal will fatigue and could break...

FO_FDYFO (Pete?) offered a kit to strengthen the stock arms... Pretty cheap too, just needs to be welded onto the arms... Maybe that would be a good idea, check the arms for any current cracks, and add the reinforcments when you change the springs...

I would double check the balljoints while I was doing that too... And bushings, and...

Safety versus cost... If you have to pull it apart to replace the springs, how much more to replace the bushings/balljoints and reinforce the arms? Shouldn't be too much... I think $149 from PST for a basic front end rebuild kit...


As for the "need" of tubular arms... I don't think there is a NEED... The look nice, and I'd like them, but if you reinforce your stock arms, you should be able to beat on your car as much as you could with the tubulars...

Tubular lowers have really only been available for a year or so (some brands longer, but haven't heard of anyone using them)... What did people do way back then?

Now maybe with big sticky tires up front (racing tires) or pulling wheelies... Then maybe the tubulars would be better...

i'll probably rebuild the front end, it's just the a-arms are costly, and i don't remember any b.b. 64 elky's. i see listings for b.b. springs for elky's but nothing in the way of heavier (except aftermarket) a-arms. it already has disc. brakes. i want to be safe, but i'm trying to stay within a budget for right now.

BB weren't available until 1966 (except the1965 Z16 Chevelles). 396 BB was even avaialble (At all, even Vettes, Impalas, etc) until Mid-year 1965 (I think February 1965). 1966 BB springs should work for the 64. Chevelle and El Camino will take the same springs...

All Chevelles/El Caminos used the same basic A-arms: 6-cylinder and LS6s, disc and drum, etc... There were a few minor design changes (round versus oval bushings), but basically the same parts and all interchangable...

Pretty easy to reinforce the stock arms. On mine I just welded a couple gussets to the underside and welded a piece of flat bar around the balljoint area. They seem pretty bullet-proof now.

I had never seen a cracked a-arm either...then I encountered three in four years. All on the same car.

T

Originally posted by 1BLACKHARLEY:
i'll probably rebuild the front end, it's just the a-arms are costly, and i don't remember any b.b. 64 elky's. i see listings for b.b. springs for elky's but nothing in the way of heavier (except aftermarket) a-arms. it already has disc. brakes. i want to be safe, but i'm trying to stay within a budget for right now.
If tubulars are not in the budget,make sure your stock arms are sound,either by the zyglo or magnaflux methods. I had a lower control arm break at the balljoint on my former 68 El Camino and it wasn't pretty. These cars are old and metal fatigue is becoming a factor to consider during their build-ups. Definitely consider the a-arm gussets and BB springs are practically a necessity. Coil Spring Specialties can build you a pair of front springs to your exact needs.

Both of my lower arms cracked WHILE DRIVING! It could have been really worse here. I wasnt even going fast and I came down on the railroad tracks and BAM, then the other one gave out just driving straight and normal. The bushings had eaten away and it went for the metal. I got doner ones, I didnt do any welds on them, I didnt have a MIG at the time. But I may throw some reinforcement on them while there on the car if I can get in there. But risky A Arms, NO WAY. Scarey stuff.

FO_FDYFO (Pete?) offered a kit to strengthen the stock arms... Pretty cheap too, just needs to be welded onto the arms... Maybe that would be a good idea, check the arms for any current cracks, and add the reinforcments when you change the springs...

We agree. We had our own reinforcements made by the major sponsor of our '69, plus we purchased the armor coated hardware from Pete.

In fact, you would be amazed how most SCTA/BNI (Land Speed Racing Events) owners/drivers reinforce the original suspension in the exact same way.

Don't get us wrong, tubular arms are great for what you are trying to do in that situation.

We did the S-10 Front Suspension Swap using Superior Spindle 2" Dropped Spindles, Autospecialty Power Stop Slotted Rotors, 9-1-1 Extreme Performance Disc Brake Pads, Moog Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends, and their rear drum setup.

We still need to find braided stainless steel lines/hoses to replace the rubber hose in the front disc setup (Anyone know or have you used these type of brake lines in the front?).

You would love doing an S-10 coversion, as the spindles are "Beefier", and you are dealing with modern and up to date technology.

graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif

This is what I did to mine. Not the prettiest, but who really looks at the underside of lower a-arms anyway?

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/TimC/A-Armboth.JPG

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/TimC/A-Armbothtop.JPG

If they crack again I'll go tubular.

all GM A body control arms are the same regardless of the engine size, so stock ones in BB are the same as SB. None of them were made for jumps or any off the ground effects.