anybody ever boxed rear arms? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: anybody ever boxed rear arms?


BowtieAaron
Dec 25th, 03, 4:57 PM
merry christmas all...

for xmas today i got rear control arm bushings and a control arm boxing kit..

i was wandering if anybody had boxed the lower arms before? is it as easy as i think it is? is it just the matter of putting the new plate on and welding it in, or is ther some techique i need to know?

i will be doing it all at school in atuo body, we also have a 50ton i think it is press that i will be using to press new bushings in.

any input is appreciated.


aaron

Got_CID?
Dec 25th, 03, 6:25 PM
The inserts are exactly as easy as you think they are. Just pound them in and spot weld them and you're ready to go!

BowtieAaron
Dec 25th, 03, 8:13 PM
ok thanks alot, thats all i needed to know..


aaron

Got_CID?
Dec 25th, 03, 8:43 PM
BTW...heres mine that I boxed in with those same inserts:

Before paint:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid91/pffeb8e6b6f2c2c1edec3d9df6db4d51a/fa5c8fea.jpg

After:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid91/p0a2928026c1421611e8f61adc3977c39/fa5c8f93.jpg

Bob Johnson
Dec 25th, 03, 9:12 PM
I was told to leave the old bushings in until the welding was done, No way to damage the new bushings from the welding.
The inserts worked great.

BowtieAaron
Dec 25th, 03, 10:21 PM
Justin.. looks really good., thanks for the pics.


Bob, thats what i heard and was planning on doing that too.


thanks for all your help.


merry christmas ya'll.


aaron

Got_CID?
Dec 25th, 03, 11:49 PM
If you still have bushings in there, then yes, leave the old ones in until they get welded.

Weakened_Daze
Dec 27th, 03, 1:53 PM
I would recommend drilling the holes in them for a sway bar before installing the inserts. Use 7/16" x 2 3/4 bolts, and drill the back hole 4 5/8 from the center of the bushing hole, and the other hole 6 inches center to center from the first hole.

Place the inserts in the arms as a test fit, then remove them. Wire brush, sand or grind the rust along the area to be welded.

Reinstall the inserts and install the bolts in the holes for the sway bar mounts before welding. This will insure that when and if you decide to mount a sway bar you can.

The inserts seem a bit flimsy until they are welded in place then they are solid as OEM. The provisions for the bolts keep the arm from crushing when you tighten up the sway bar, and they needed adjusted a bit before welding mine to get the bolts in place.

I chose to weld mine the length of them, stitching the wire to prevent excess heat buildup. After a blast from the media cabinet, some new bushings and a little POR-15 they are ready to install.
http://www.madmikesigns.com/chevelle/boxarm1.jpg
http://www.madmikesigns.com/chevelle/boxarm2.jpg

BowtieAaron
Dec 27th, 03, 5:44 PM
weakened..

thanks for the tip. so your saying i should 1st drill a hole 4 5/8 from the center of the bushing hole to center of the new hole? and then 6" from the 4 5/8 hole? center to center of course. not 6" from bushing hole?

i had planned on putting a rear swaybar on in the next year so i will go ahead and do it.

should i also weld the bolts onto the arms too for the sway bar?

is there really only one way the inserts go on? and is there only one way for the arms to go on as well, i guess i wanna know because i dont want to put them on the wrong way/sides.

this is my 1st big project i will be tackling so please bear w/ me.

well thanks again. if i have any questions i will post them.


aaron

Jawez
Dec 29th, 03, 7:29 PM
Bowtie,

Would you happen to have the dimensions of the Steel plates for the control arms in the kit. My dad works at a metal fabrication shop and he can have those cut welded and powder coated for me for free.

Thanks

Jamie

70Z15
Dec 29th, 03, 9:13 PM
Be careful when pressing the bushings in. You need to put some type of spacer inside the arm so you don't crush the ends. I was able to find an original Kent-Moore tool just for this. You should be able to fab up something pretty easily though. Also, as mentioned previously, the originals were not welded the entire length.

blumont
Dec 30th, 03, 10:27 AM
Where do you get the control arm boxing kits?

Jerry

BowtieAaron
Dec 30th, 03, 11:02 AM
thanks for all the help guys.

you can get the kit from OPG for $30.00 USD. part number RCAI001

the boxing plate looks somthing like this from the side..

_________ ____ ____
|_| |_|

total length is...18 3/8"
lenth from long end to center of the rise is..9 9/16"
lenght from 1st rise to 2nd rise ( center to center)..6 /16"
and from the last rise to very end is..2 11/16"
and the rise itself is 1 5/8

hope this helps.


aaron

wv69
Dec 30th, 03, 11:20 AM
blumont, if you need a boxing kit, I have one that I ended up not using because I had to replace my control arms. Drop me an email at jeppa1@yahoo.com for details.

blumont
Dec 30th, 03, 11:32 AM
I checked out OPG. They have a boxing kit and rear sway bar for $80.00 . Sounds like a good deal but am not sure about shipping to Western Canada(additional charges etc)
Thanks for the info
wv69, you have mail
Jerry

doggy69
Dec 30th, 03, 3:49 PM
Jawez...the cars in the old school vs. new school pick 1972 chevelle ss and 1995 ferrari 355 berlinetta...right?

Weakened_Daze
Dec 30th, 03, 6:30 PM
yes, the first hole is 4 5/8 from the center of the bushing and the second is 6 inches from the first (10 5/8 from the bushing). Get the 6 inch centers as close as possible as the sway bar will fit tight. do not weld the bolts in place, no advantage and getting the sway bar on after the fact would be all but impossible with the bolts sticking all the way through.

On my donor arms, from a 70 chevelle, there was no difference from one end to the other. I bought mine on eBay for about 20 bucks, and having a full machine shop at my disposal even at $30 or $40 I can't screw with making them and reengineering a set for what i can buy them ready to go for and know they fit.

BowtieAaron
Dec 30th, 03, 9:43 PM
thank you again.

aaron

71350SS
Dec 30th, 03, 10:49 PM
Blumont,
The sway bar is still available new from GM so going to a local dealer may save you some shipping costs.

Rich-L79
Dec 31st, 03, 1:29 PM
Originally posted by 71350ss:
Blumont,
The sway bar is still available new from GM so going to a local dealer may save you some shipping costs. But the extra cost for true GM might offset any savings, maybe not. Also, be aware that the GM bar is 7/8" thick, the ones that OPG sells are available in various sizes starting at 7/8". If a 7/8" bar will do what you need and the price is right, buying GM parts local may be the best plan.

Jawez
Jan 4th, 04, 6:39 PM
Bowtie,

Thanks for the dimensions, they should come in handy. smile.gif I will let you know how they turn out.

Doggy69, I think it might be newer than a 95 ferrari, but it is a 355. He has got rid of that one now and has a 360 Spider. The car drives like its on rails. I have pics if you want to see it.

Blumont, Where abouts are you in Calgary. Id like to come check out your car.

graemlins/beers.gif

FO_FDYFO
Jan 5th, 04, 1:01 PM
i havent read all the replies to this topic, but they just did this in the new issue of Super Chevy's special Chevelle edition. i just picked one up in a 7-11. graemlins/hurray.gif

BowtieAaron
Jan 5th, 04, 3:57 PM
fo... thanks i will pick one up next time im out.

aaron