Is this a fairly straight forward job for a do-it-yourselfer in the driveway? I have new rear upper and lower control arms to replace the old tired ones and was wondering what the best way was to remove the old and install the new? Do I need to remove the shocks and how do I keep the driveline from twisting while doing the install?

Thanks in advance.

The install is not a big deal. Removing the lower shock mounts and the rear springs makes the job much easier. Do 1 arm at a time and use a jack and lift and/or lower axle to line up the bolt holes. You will fight the springs if you leave them in place.

Jack her up under the pumpkin, put the car on stands, disconnect shocks, jack up car under pumpkin enough to remove tension from arms but abviously NOT lift car off of stands. Do one arm at a time to keep the rear from rotating or shifting. You may have to play with jack height to get the right angle and get the bolts out of the arms, may have to hit them with breakfree or Wd-40 and can pushe them through with a screwdiver if they hang up. When you put the arms back in you again may have to alter floorjack height to hit the right angle and you can again use the screwdriver though the mounting holes to get them lined up, push botls through, torque em and drive. After initial drive crawl back under and retorsue to ensure they havent loosened up any.

as with any bushing install front or rear don't tighten until car is sitting in a normal state back on the ground ... that way you've not put them in a bind by tighting in a extened state.

Thanks for the replies, seems fairly straight forward. On the rear lower control arms...to get to the outside bolt on the front of the control arm, do you have to go through that hole in the frame to get a socket in there? Anyone know what size the bolts/nuts are since I can't see them.

Bob, yeah, you'll go through the holes in the outside of the frame to get at them.. I used a 6 inch extension and a deepwell socket (I believe 11/16", but I may be mistaken, it could be 3/4").

I don't think I would have been able to do the front bolts for the rear uppers as easily without the deepwell socket; getting a wrench on the nut of those wasn't too easy.

3/4" & yes you go thru frame hole .. one note use socket that fits tight to extenion .. its a real pain in a@@ to loose socket into frame rail graemlins/angry.gif

As Midnight Marauder said make sure you jack up the pumpkin. When I replaced my springs, shocks and control arms on my Sprint I did not do that and the rear moved back on me and it was a PITA to get it lined up. :mad:
I did one side @ a time so the driver side went much easier after I figured out what I was doing.
I took a day to do both sides/replace shocks and springs. You will have no problem with the words and help from Team Chevelle. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks folks! Here's the final question on this...what is the best way to pop out the upper rear bushings that are mounted within differential housing? This looks like it's going to be a knuckle bleeder!

I appreciate all the help! graemlins/beers.gif

Might want to disconnect the drive shaft also. It makes the job much easier when your moving the rear end around to aline the holes back. I just got done installing Hotchkis Upper and lower trailing arms in my 67.

When you jack under the pumpkin, and remove one lower control arm, the spring may cause the rear to rotate about 1/2 inch back on that side. If it does, get a second jack and position it on the front of the pumpkin just behind the u-joint and jack it up there, to rotate the rear around and line up the bolt holes.
Jim