View Full Version : Pointers...Replacing Z Bar
Murphy66 Jul 24th, 09, 12:35 AM I just bought a 66 Malibu with a 327 and 4 speed Muncie, but on the way home the first day I bought it the top portion of the Z bar gave out. It may have been welded once before, so I bought a new one. I've been told it isnt difficult to replace, and I have a friend who is "pretty sure" he can do it but I thought I'd see if anyone here has any pointers or links that might be helpful before we attempt it.
Thanks in advance.
-Murf
novaderrik Jul 24th, 09, 2:44 AM it'e easy-
go in thru the wheelwell and loosen the nut where the Z bar mounts into the frame bracket.
unhook the linkage from the pedal and the return spring.
take the old one out
switch the linkage that goes from the z bar to the clutch fork from the old z bar to the new one, and put the pivot ball thing (the part with the nut you took off thru the wheelwell) from the old z bar into the new one..
put the new z bar into the car and tighten down the nut on the frame bracket.
hook up the linkages and return spring, grease it up, adjust it, and go for a drive.
SixActual Jul 24th, 09, 4:32 AM Yeah, what ("Minnesota nice") Derrick said. :D
MrBill66Malibu Jul 24th, 09, 5:00 AM Chad,
If the new z bar is a reproduction inspect the construction. Mine was only welded on 1 side and it was starting to crack after a few years, so I welded it up correctly!
Murphy66 Jul 24th, 09, 6:27 AM Will do, thanks for the tips! We'll be installing it tonight, hopefully all goes well.
67shovel Jul 24th, 09, 8:18 AM Also check the arm locations on your new Z bar as compared to your old one. I had to remove,rotate and reweld my Z bar on the 67
Motorvation Jul 24th, 09, 8:37 AM Murphy66.....Would you measure the length of the tube for me? I'm having issues with my 65. The tube scoots towards the block and about falls off the ball mount at the frame. Thanks!!
Steve O.
Rich-L79 Jul 24th, 09, 3:13 PM Murphy66.....Would you measure the length of the tube for me? I'm having issues with my 65. The tube scoots towards the block and about falls off the ball mount at the frame. Thanks!!
Steve O.
There should be little nylon bushings inside the tube which locate against the stud balls at either end which prevent the z-bar from moving side to side. My guess is you are missing these bushings. Just buy a rebuild kit which consists of all the new frame side stud ball, bushings, seals, washers and nuts you will need to put it back together properly.
figbash Jul 24th, 09, 6:57 PM Chad,
If the new z bar is a reproduction inspect the construction. Mine was only welded on 1 side and it was starting to crack after a few years, so I welded it up correctly!
Unfortunately, if it's been welded it will likely continue to crack. The Z bars are made of hardened steel (at least the OEM ones) and a repair by welding will reduce the strength. If it's been repaired, it's time for a new one.
Tom
Murphy66 Jul 25th, 09, 1:53 AM Installed the new z bar and all is well, except the adjustable rod that connects the z bar to the transmission is too short. I take it thats what 67Shovel was talking about regarding having to remove, rotate and reweld. Do they make a longer rod? I'd rather replace the rod than reweld the z bar. In the interim i have extended the adjustable rod to the full length and it is working, but not firm.
Funny, I rarely have a "short rod" problem!
PaPa Johns 77 Jul 25th, 09, 10:41 AM I added a gusset to mine when I has to reweld the arm.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg166/johnnys1977/HPIM0206-1.jpg
Motorvation Jul 26th, 09, 9:43 AM There should be little nylon bushings inside the tube which locate against the stud balls at either end which prevent the z-bar from moving side to side. My guess is you are missing these bushings. Just buy a rebuild kit which consists of all the new frame side stud ball, bushings, seals, washers and nuts you will need to put it back together properly.
Thank you, Rich:hurray:.....That makes total sense. Now I remember seeing the outter ball/stud captured, but that was years ago.
Steve O.
Herb Jul 26th, 09, 3:34 PM Thank you, Rich:hurray:.....That makes total sense. Now I remember seeing the outter ball/stud captured, but that was years ago.
Steve O.
Murph,
The nylon bushing kit is cheaper than the shipping but available from NPD among others. I had the same problem with an aftermarket unit. Turned out it was made wrong. If yours is an aftermarket uint see my next blurb to Steve.
Steve,
There's a whole write up on Z-bar or Belcrank problems here in the forums from about 3 weeks ago. Seach on my sig or "Wally" in the transmission forum. Or do a search on the entire forum on "belcrank" or Z-bar for more info an aftermarket units. Some are plain JUNK as I found out the hard way. I too had re-engineer mine. I encourage you to do a search. BTW - Wally says the ones from OPG are OK.
rocks66ss Jul 26th, 09, 4:21 PM Here is a link to my problems with a Z bar, Interesting reading.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247525
Rocky
Herb Jul 26th, 09, 6:40 PM And mine
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273189&highlight=Herb
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