There are a lot of different instructions for how to tighten the front wheel bearings. Some say to tighten to a certain torque, then back off maybe 1/4 turn, other say to tighten with a wrench until the slop is gone, then back off a certain amount and so on. When trying that, I almost always end up with a bit of slop in the bearing.

I have always hand tightened until it’s snug and there’s no slop, then used a wrench to get to the next slot in the castle nut. After the pin it put in, I use the wrench to back off until it stops against the pin. I haven’t seen this method in any book, and so far (knock on wood…), I haven’t had any bearing failures. So now I’m just curious to know what you guys do.

I tighten while spinning the hub until snug to squeeze out the excess grease in the bearing, then back off a full turn and snug back down hand tight then tighten with pliars to align hole for cotter pin to go in. Been doing it this way for almost 30 years without any problems.
GM has a procedure for setting the wheel bearings on 4x4 trucks that involves torque settings and backing off 1/4 turn but never saw any torque settings on 2 wheel drive vehicle bearings.

Seems very similar to what I do, and yes, if I repack the bearings I also tighten up and spin the wheel before final tightening. I'm surprised that there is only one reply... so the rest of you guys take it to the shop to fix your bearings ;) Anyway, I haven't seen the "torque and back off" method for any American cars (in a few cases I have seen it recommended to seat new races), but it's quite common in Europe. Last one I did like that was a VW Passat, I think. Well, I have been doing it my way for 25 years, so I guess I'll just go on.

...and yeah, I wrote "spin the wheel", because I have the wheel on the rotor/drum when I put it back on. Makes it easier to wiggle it to see if it's tight enough.

I use a similiar method. If the bearings have just been repacked, I use a wrench to snug it up past hand tight, repeat a couple times. Then the last time with the wrench just past hand tight, & back off ~1/4 turn.

If the wheel is off for inspection, just snug with wrench, then back off ~1/4 turn.

I do recheck (touch center of wheel) it once I have driven it. If it's too tight it will be hot. :D

I snug nut down untill there is no slop,then back off to next hole. Been doing it that way for many years.

At one time this question was on the certifed mech. test at chevy. dealerships.

I do it like the '65 service manual prescribes: while rotating wheel tightne to 15 lb. ft., back off one flat and insert cotter. back off not more than one-half additional flat if needed to insert cotter. Been workin' fine that way for me since 1967.

My $0.02 smile.gif