I just finished installing a disk setup out of a 70 Monte in my 67 chevelle,and it stops like crap, the pedal fades and if I really jump on the pedal the brake light comes on.I have new calipers,pads,rubber lines, booster, and master. I used the 70 prop valve that mounts to the booster and I left the 67 distribution block on the frame. I bled the brake a few times. Hopefully someone out there can tell me how I screwed up.... :mad: Thanks in advance


, john

because your light comes on, I think you still have air in the system. Did you bench bleed the master off the car, level in a vice on the bench? this is necessary to ensure no air is trapped in the upper part of the master chamber. I would bleed again. Remember, service manuals say to depress the button on the front of the combo valve while bleeding (the front I think). Also, be mindful that new pads take a few miles to wear in on new discs. I read somewhere to deglaze both by lightly sanding in a circular motion. But wait until someone chimes in on this issue before you do anything on that point.

I bled the MC in the car,I just took a ride and the passinger side rear locked up for about 30 feet when I hit the brakes,I'm starting to think I should have left the drums in. graemlins/sad.gif

Well heres another slant on this popular swap.I just got done with my 67 wagon.It was Oe 9in Drums allaround. Now it has 69-72 Abody single piston caliper Discs.I rebuilt the calipers and used a 70 camaro non power disc master,as recomended from this site. NO prop or residual pressure or aftermarket valve was used. This thing stops like a dream. No lites come on and under serious stops the ballance is more than satifactory.. I can adjust the pedal height on the rod to any place I desire.. We will see how he pads wear.. PS I have he combo valve from the 69 Cutlass I got the rest of the stuff from. Every thing cleand up to well within specs.For 100$ Master cyl was 19.95 Brake hoses 8.95 each. Bearings, seals ect 20$ If it aint broke dont fix it....

The problem with bleeding the MC on the car is the angle it is mounted at (front end up). They are supposed to be bled while level to insure ALL the air is out. The disc conversion really has nothing to do with the one rear wheel locking up either. Try rebleeding the master cylinder, air is not a good thing!

Where in western MA are you? I'm in the Springfield area (Agawam actually).

I bled the brakes again and they seem to working a lot better,I know this doesn't have anything to do with the disks but I'm having a problem with the rear passinger brake,no matter how many times I bleed it I get air graemlins/clonk.gif I had the same problem when I still had the drum brakes and I replaced the MC.Rick I live a town away from pittfield.

, john

If it helps,
I bought one of those vacume pump-one man bleeding kits from Oriley Auto parts (29.00?). Used it once and love how fast and well it bled the brakes on my 86 f350. I also swapped the MC cylinder, and after bench bleeding it, and doing each wheel cylinder it stops as good as it did when new.
John C.