I have a 1970 velle w/ round gages. I had the dash apart and back together when I discovered the temp gage was pegged hot. I added a couple extra ground straps (to the body and frame), replaced the circuit board and it still didn't work. It turns out the 10amp lower right fuse was blown. I changed it and now the temp gage works. I guess I didn't pay attention before but when the engine first fires up the gage quickly springs (bounces to the right) then settles and performs as it should. Almost as if the shake of the engine shaking the whole car bounces the needle around. Is this normal? Also the gas gage went to full. It was about 5/8ths tank before I replaced the fuse. It could have been wrong before and it may actually be at full tank. I jacked up the rear end and it didn't move. I guess I didn't turn the key on when I had it jacked up so it wouldn't read would it?

ELREE, IF YOU READ THIS YOU WERE RIGHT. The temp gage resistor does run up and down instead of right and left.

The gas gage was right, (I hope). I cleaned off the ground and unhooked the sending unit wire back by the tank. I grounded it to the frame and the gage pegged way to the right. When I hooked it up it went back to full. I ran it for a little bit to double check the temp gage. When I was done for the night it was a little below full so I think were good. to go.
I've had the dash out of my car since April. Had it back together and back apart again tracking down (and learning) the electrical system. Tonight I put it all back together and will hopefully get it on the road again. When I started the blower motor wouldn't turn on, I didn't have any washer fluid hoses or reservoir, I didn't have a reverse light, I had to jump the neutral safety switch with a cotterpin to get it to start (I switched it to a toggle switch... anti theft devise), I didn't have innerfenders (I bought a set of used metal ones and painted them). Now they all work (I hope). Wish me luck. Thanks.