Ok, I'm finally making some progress and getting things installed again. If you haven't heard this before, I read in a magazine article several years ago about reinforcing the front control arms for strength. I didn't want tubular because I wanted them to look stock.

Well, FO_FDYFO (Thanks, Pete!) was kind enough to offer a set of the pieces needed to get the job done. (He's done tons of improvements - I recommend reading his site!!) I found a local welder, and after a little cleanup and massaging, the pieces fit like a glove.

Here are the before pictures of the arms with the reinforcement parts laid out in front:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Xtreme70SS396/frontcontrolarmsbefore.JPG

Here are the after pictures with the parts welded on and the arms painted. You really can't tell they aren't stock unless you know:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Xtreme70SS396/frontcontrolarmsafter.JPG

And finally, here's the passenger side arm installed:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Xtreme70SS396/frontcontrolarminstalled.JPG

Obviously, I've got a lot of stuff to hook up yet, but I'm getting there. Thought I would share some of the photos in case anyone was thinking of doing the same.

We went with a simular design as Pete's, plus we used his Armor Coated Hardward thruout the entire car.

Looks and works great!

graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I went with stainless, but I'll have to look at that Armor coated stuff. Pete's done a lot of work on handling and frame mods!

Originally posted by Xtreme70SS396:
I went with stainless, but I'll have to look at that Armor coated stuff. Pete's done a lot of work on handling and frame mods! The stainless may only be a grade 5 (?????). That's what we did the entire car in originally, but then the SCTA/BNI told us to "Change it out to at least a grade 8 before you bring it to us for tech".

Catch you later.

graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Is that supposed to make it handle better?

LVMAXX, the stainless is actually STRONGER than Grade 8 hardware. Most stainless is not. It's a bit confusing because technically stainless can't be grade 8 - as I understand it, it's a hardening measure that has to do with the carbon in steel, and stainless doesn't have the carbon in it to make that classification. However, the stainless hardware sold as "Grade 8" has greater tensile and shear strength than "real" grade 8 hardware. Most people aren't aware of this because stainless is known to be softer than regular steel. Hope I explained that well enough, I'm no engineer.

Doggy69 - yes, it makes the lower arms stronger at their weakest point near the ball joints. These arms have been known to weaken and break in that location.

recent example:
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=007856

I really wish the pictures worked in this thread....

This link shows pictures of the front lower control arm mods being discussed here.
http://einstyn.com/einstyn-hardtop-05.htm

Dang, this thread is over 2 yrs old - I'll try and repost the pics late today, they are on my computer at home.

So these filler plates cant be bought anywhere right ? I'd have to get them made or make them myself ? ..

See this link. He has them for sale.
http://einstyn.com/einstyn-hardtop-05.htm

It wouldn't take much to make them up though.

Einstyn is Pete Lohr, the moderator over in the wagons section. Anyone can make them - but he's got several that he just sells as people need them. Got mine from him!

Seems to me like his plates do not reinforce the part is prone to break.. Just look the the pictures, the plates do not reinforce the very end of the arm.

http://einstyn.com/einstyn-chevelle-parts.htm

The picture of the failed arm shows that the very end of the arm failed(where the balljoint is)

How do these plates reinforce the end of the arms ?

the strap steel is bent into a U an fit to the end where your thinking about an welded in place

the strap steel is bent into a U an fit to the end where your thinking about an welded in place


So the strip goes over the control arm or inside of it ?

over the outside welded complete around the strap

over the outside welded complete around the strap


Hmmm... welds that can be seen..

http://eprentice.sdsu.edu:16080/S04X/scase/home%20alone.gif


I would have to get a friend to weld this part ;)

Outside.

Welds can be ugly, you just have to be a good grinder to make them look good.

jfman i have a template you can use for reinforcing lower control arms if a template from a 72 chevelle ss will work. i bought a kit and made templates extras hehe to use etc in furture got my moneys worth. Brandon

Thanks for the offer but I will either buy the plates fromt that guy of get tubulars(yeah right!)

Would boxing the entire arm from ball joint to bushings be worth it?I have done this to chevelles for other people that ask for it, just not my own.I have yet to see one break and I have worked on at least 50+ chevelles.I just make a carboard template and buy some 1/8 inch cold rolled and use the plasma cutter to fit them.

my templates are from that guy, just made a trace patteren on to cardboard to use later. just trying to help out

Well, I've checked for my old photos and couldn't find them, sorry.

Yes, I think it's worth it. We have had history on this board of broken control arms in the past. Given that many of us are moving to increased spring rates, bigger swaybars, and more performance than was originally designed into the cars in the first place - I feel a level of comfort boxing mine. May not be necessary, but worth it IMO.

Plus, mine look stock - best of both worlds.

I know this thread is a bit old, but rather than start a new one, I thought I'd pick up where this one left off.

I'm going for the full box, I think. :confused: I've layed out cardboard templates and think I can do it in 7 pieces, with 2 being the ones shown in the referenced web link around the ball joint. These use 1/8" plate and 1"x1/8" around the outside. The other 5 pieces are out of 1.5"x1/8". The hole with the "x" is to get a socket in there to tighten the bump stop. Do I have the right idea?
http://marknkelley.home.att.net/ChevelleFrontLowerControlArmTemplates.JPG

Very old post but how real is this problem? I have seen reference to it here and there but does it happen often.

I just got my arms blasted and ready to go to the powder guy so now would be the time but I don't want to delay the schedule for something that never really happens.

We had a guy just post this month, his control arm broke. The damage it can cause, particularly while driving, can be significant if not life-threatening. If you are at a point with the arms off, I can't think of a single reason to NOT do it.

I thought I'd followup by adding pics of my full box attempt to this thread. I'm a pretty crappy welder, but I think everything is pretty securely attached.

They'll go to the powder coater on Monday. I've been quoted $70 for the pair. I'll post a pic of how they turn out when they're done.

Templates transfered to metal (1/8" cold rolled):
http://marknkelley.home.att.net/ChevelleFrontLowerControlArmMetalPieces.JPG

Tacked:
http://marknkelley.home.att.net/ChevelleFrontLowerControlArmTacked.JPG

After one grinding session:
http://marknkelley.home.att.net/ChevelleFrontLowerControlArmWeldedAndFirstGrind.JP G

Regarding costs, this gets pretty close to a set of tubulars. I already had some PST polygraphite bushings and ball joints and started with a new set of lowers. A set of complete arms would be about $130 each, but you'd have to remove (and likely destroy) the bushings and ball joints to do the welding. The metal was less than $20 and I went through about $10 of welding stuff. So the total bill would be $260 (arms) + $30 (materials) + $70 (coating) + $80 (new ball joints and bushings) = $440. If I include McD wage rates for my labor, this adds another $50-100 (about 8 hours of cutting, grinding, welding, grinding). I weighed the things before and after and they were each just under 11lbs bare before and about 3lbs heavier after.

I also went through a couple pairs of socks (welding with flip flops is a bad idea :().

Looks good! Might want to test-fit the brake rotors clearance before you send them to powder coating, if the new steel wasn't right up to the old arm in front you might have to grind a little for clearance.

I disagree on the cost, because most people will already have the arms to begin with, but a point well made anyway. I prefer the stock look, and the tubulars give that up immediately.

I like the looks of yours better than mine - boxing them completely gives it a more finished look.

Mark - good tip on making sure everything fits 1st, especially the strap around the ball joint area. My templates didn't fit snugly at first and I checked them on the arms in the car. They weren't hitting but came real close near the rotor. I spent some quality time with my sledge and vice and got the straps tighter and more room.

I'll post a pic of how they turn out when they're done.
http://marknkelley.home.att.net/ChevelleFrontLowerControlArmReady4Install.JPG
I could've made them look better by using bondo or jbweld to smooth out my ugly welds, but they looked good enough for me. I did the free rental for the ball joint/bushing clamp tool. After what felt like a major wrestling match to get one ball joint in, I packed up the tool and brought the rest to the local machine shop. Now I know why Tom (in his PST post) went with the press.

The uppers are Speedtechs from Frank (Prodigy).

Nice!