I'm about to install new coils in the rear of my 67 chevelle. Is there a better sequence to go by when lowering the rear to put the coils on then another. Any tips or tricks. I'm 19 and just begining to work on my car.

Thanks

Dan

Like everything else in life, there's more than one way to do this. There are really three things you need to watch out for: Ripping the rubber control arm bushings by over-extending the bushings when the axle drops, ripping the rear brake hose when the axle drops, and not killing yourself in the process. Actually, this is MUCH easier/safer than playing with the front springs. I recommend upgrading to Poly bushings because your bushings are probably crapped out anyway, and you have to loosten the bolts anyway. Make sure your car has the braces that connect the upper and lower control arm mounts. Now is the time to install them if your car doesn't have 'em. Verify your brake hose is in good condition, or replace it now. You have to disconnect one end anyway, might as well pop the other end and just be done with it. Same for rear shocks- You have to pull one end, if they're worn, it's never going to be easier to replace them than it is now.

The best way:

Have new polyurethane rear control arm bushings on hand, because your rubber ones are shot. Have new rear shocks on hand, if the existing ones are worn. Have a new rear brake hose on hand. Have a pair of the suspension braces that connect upper and lower control arm mounts on hand, if your car doesn't already have them.

Jack up the car by raising the rear axle. Put one set of jackstands under the FRAME, put another set under the AXLE. Don't drop the axle yet. Disconnect the driveshaft. Disconnect the shocks at the axle (and body, if you're replacing them), loosten the bolts holding all four control arms to the frame, as well as the axle, and disconect the brake hose from the tubing at the body-(and at the axle if you're replacing it.) Spray the brake bleeders with the penetrating solvent of your choice.

Remove the stands under the axle, and carefully lower the axle, it will swing down low enough that the springs will fall out. Put the new springs and isolators in. Jack the axle back up enough to reinstall the shocks, and replace the stands. Connect your new/used shocks. Connect the new/used brake hose. Connect the driveshaft. Remove the bolts you've already loostened, and drop the control arms out one at a time, and replace the crappy rubber bushings with polyurethane. Burn/drill out the old rubber, polish the inside of the original steel shells, and push the greased poly bushing into your old shell. Stick in the center sleeve. Repeat for each bushing. Connect and torque each control arm as you finish with it. The position of the axle is not critical when torquing Poly bushings. Don't forget to install the control arm mount braces using the bolts that hold the control arms to the body. Bleed the rear brakes. (If you use rubber control arm bushings, torque the bolts holding the control arms ONLY WHEN THE REAR AXLE IS AT NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT! You'll have to have the weight on the springs at this point, probably AFTER you bleed the brakes. It's a real PITA.)

Hey, Schurkey!

I just replaced the rear springs on a 1969 Chevelle. The new springs are noticeably shorter than the originals, maybe one or two inches. (Getting those originals out was actually a bit of an effort. So much so that we ended up taking the car to a mechanic with a lift.)

I bought some heavy duty springs (McQuay-Norris), and because they are shorter, I'm a little concerned that if the rear suspension ever goes to full travel, the new springs could actually fall out.

As far as I can tell, the springs were originals. The new springs did raise the ride height by about an inch, other than that, there's nothing new about them, other than a firmer ride (which I like).

Do you think I have to worry about those shorter springs? Also, when the mechanic replaced the rear springs, he didn't do all those steps. All he did was disconnect the lower shock mounting, drop the axle (with a support in place), pull the old spring and put the new one in.

Since he didn't do all those steps, would that affect anything?

Thanks!

Hey, that's how I did it...before I figured out that you can rip the control arm bushings, and stretch the brake hose from over-extending the rear suspension.

'Course, most control arm bushings are already shot from years of use. Not good to destroy a customer's rear brakes, though. Especially since there may not be symptoms right away...takes awhile for the brake hose to come apart after it's been stretched.

I'm betting that the shocks will prevent the suspension from unloading so much the springs would fall out. You could take some BIG washers, and a couple of bolts, and bolt the bottom of the springs to the axle mount. Some cars were like that from the factory. I didn't bother. I just jacked up the body so the rear wheels were off the ground-that's as far as the suspension travels. If the springs don't fall out...you have nothing to worry about.

Thanks, muchacho.