DETAILS: TH400 behind a mild 454, bought this transmission as a rebuilt core with a "shift kit" and no other mods. Running a stock torque converter and a B&M ratchet shifter which I like to manually shift due to it shifting too early (no kick down switch either). Vac modulator is connected, no leaks.

PROBLEM: Noticed recently that it seems to slip real bad when I ratchet into second gear under throttle. Also, when cruising in 2nd and you let off the gas, the engine drops back to idle. The motor does not "drag" like is does in 1st and 3rd (the way a standard trans does when you let off in gear).

QUESTION: What is about to fail? Do I need to rebuild this thing? Are my driving habits causing this problem?

Thanks,
-Kevin

Intermediate sprag, intermediate clutches or front band? All possible failure points to cause this. It may be time for another rebuild. If you do alot of manual shifting, then you might consider installing a manual valvebody. How does the fluid look and smell? You need to pull the pan and look for abnormal contamination.

Intermediate sprag, intermediate clutches or front band? All possible failure points to cause this. It may be time for another rebuild. If you do alot of manual shifting, then you might consider installing a manual valvebody. How does the fluid look and smell? You need to pull the pan and look for abnormal contamination.

Agreed on the failure points however I disagree on using a manual VB on a street car. Why? What would be the advantage?

In his original post Kevin stated that he likes to shift the car manually...I think Jim was recommending a solution that is better suited for this purpose.

In his original post Kevin stated that he likes to shift the car manually...I think Jim was recommending a solution that is better suited for this purpose.

Actually guys, the whole reason I shift manually is because the transmission will hit 2nd and 3rd way sooner than I like (3000-3500rpm) even with my foot to the floor. I am essentially "band-aiding" another issue in that 1) I dont have a kick down switch, and 2) I've been told my governor (?) needs adjustment to delay the shift point.

As I mentioned, I hope my resultant driving habits haven't contributed to the problem.:(

So you both are essentially saying a rebuild is in order? Any replacement parts recommended outside of a standard rebuild kit?

Thanks for the feedback.

In his original post Kevin stated that he likes to shift the car manually...I think Jim was recommending a solution that is better suited for this purpose.

What's wrong with manually shifting an automatic VB when you want to, and also having auto function the rest of the time?

Instead of installing a VB on a street car that causes more wear and tear on the pump, doesn't have engine braking, etc..

I'm not knocking Jim but many transmission builders just fall into the category of thinking a manual VB is better if you are going to manually shift often, that's not the case. There are several very good reasons to keep the auto VB on a street car.
If you build the trans properly the auto VB setup will live at up to 1000 HP IME.
I have a couple of TC'ers using TH400's that are knocking on that door with automatic VB equipped trans.

Actually guys, the whole reason I shift manually is because the transmission will hit 2nd and 3rd way sooner than I like (3000-3500rpm) even with my foot to the floor. I am essentially "band-aiding" another issue in that 1) I dont have a kick down switch, and 2) I've been told my governor (?) needs adjustment to delay the shift point.

As I mentioned, I hope my resultant driving habits haven't contributed to the problem.:(

So you both are essentially saying a rebuild is in order? Any replacement parts recommended outside of a standard rebuild kit?

Thanks for the feedback.

You will also need a sprag and most likely a direct drum.
I have all the parts you need. Kit and direct drum assembly with 34 element sprag.

Thanks Jake