Folks, clearly need a line lock to hold the car in the staging beams and be able to work throttle. I've seen the ones availalbe and they look HUGE. Really dont want a big arse chrome thingy.

2 Q's. 1.) does anyone know of a small-sized unit. It only has to work with drum brakes, so line pressure shouldn't be real high, and

2.) Does it need to be hardmounted to a surface? I'd almost prefer to leave it "in-line" or directly on the front output of the master.
THNX for your advice!

Gene,
I don't know how your specific car is plumbed up, but...
To work properly, the linelock has to be "downstream" of the distribution block and connected to both front brake lines. Generally most cars have two brake lines running from the master to the distribution block, then from there, one line to EACH front brake and one line feeding the rears.
And I would mount it securely. It's kind of heavy and vibration may cause a line to rupture, IMO.
I've got an extra one if interested... ;)

Bill, you mean downstream as in past the distribution block? The brake line has a splice in it, oh, maybe 6" 'downstream' from the master, on the front brake line. I ASSUMED thats where you'd put it. No?

Yes, if your distribution block is also a proportioning or "combo" valve, the line lock will have to be install AFTER it(downstream).
Does your distribution block have a wire (brown?) attached to it? If so, it's a combo...I'm quite sure it is.
If you install a line lock BEFORE the distribution block, when you energize the LL soleniod, the plunger inside the block will be pushed over to the non pressurized rear brake half and your dash brake light will come on.
Clear as mud, right? :D
Your gonna have to run both front brake lines into a "t" at the line lock input then "T" again on the output end to each front brake.
So much for a stealth look, huh?

Bill
so the ONLY reason to mount the line lock after the dist. block or prop valve would be to eliminate the brake warning light from coming on??

it wouldnt damage the brake warning switch if it were mounted before the dist. block would it?

sounds like installing it before the dist block would be easier, and you would actually have a warning light to let you know the line lock is on without actually having to add a light!

Originally posted by RatONaStick:
Bill
so the ONLY reason to mount the line lock after the dist. block or prop valve would be to eliminate the brake warning light from coming on??
sounds like installing it before the dist block would be easier, and you would actually have a warning light to let you know the line lock is on without actually having to add a light! Great in theory but only one problem...once the plunger is moved off center and activates the brake light, fluid is also bypassed internally and you won't continue to hold pressure to the fronts.
At least that's how it was explained to me...

Here, this may help explain better...

http://www.mrgasket.com/hurstpdf/RollControl.pdf

Bill
sounds feasible to me.

i know i have seen cars in which the owner installed a line lock before the dist block. but ive never actually used or owned one so i have no idea how it would work in that configuration.

Aw man!. Now this is a 4 wheel drum setup w/o a prop valve, but it does have a distribution block with the tan wire.

Will it not hold pressure, or just bleed a bit. I dont need much to hold the car in the lights, and dang, there is already a splice there ABOVE the distrib block.

Aw man! Sure, from a quick 10 minute job ( NOT including bleeding) to, aw man.... smile.gif

Why would the block bypass fluid when the light is on? That would warn you that there is no pressure on one side while letting it out of the good side. That doesn't make much sense.

I'd read the Hurst instruction sheet but it comes up blank. :confused:

I already have a line lock between the master and drum brake distribution block. I haven't used it for any extended amount of time so I don't know if it looses pressure at all.

Tim.

Yeah, I need if for the period from when both staging lights come on to the last yellow! Well, I wont jury rig it, but AW MAN.....!

Tim
could you test to see if your setup loses pressure?

maybe engage the line lock and let it sit with it on for 5 or 10 min, then start the car and try to move it to see if the line lock holds after sitting.

would be very helpfull of you sir

beers on us??? graemlins/beers.gif

That be cool! I can do either, I have splices high and low ( downstream ). The low plice (preferred it seems) will put the box right above the pipes. Nice putting a small block of steel to catch all that heat there! AND either way, I've got to affix the thing to a freshly finished fenderwell. Not perfect, but they were rough and now they're ok. Got bondo in those wells! :eek:

Well, OK just spot putty, but you know what I mean. Might look at the frame as a mount.

Looks like the Biondo might make the smallest unit. Dont like their wiring though.

BTW, I did run a search and found inconclusive data, including the running of the line upstream of the distrib/prop box. I'm new at this! Want to get it right, and neat, the first time.

Originally posted by RatONaStick:
Tim
could you test to see if your setup loses pressure?I can test maybe this week. Still trying to get my rear end sorted out.

A line lock is not suposed to be activated for a very long time. I think 30 seconds or a minute is max. The solenoid burns up. Be plenty of time for a burnout and holding at the tree. The question is just how fast the distro block bypasses fluid.

Tim.

Tim

you are right hursts site says 60 seconds max.

that would help out a bunch.

thanks
Brandon

And then you wouldn't have to wire a line into the brake switch light for an indicator, right?

Originally posted by 427L88:
And then you wouldn't have to wire a line into the brake switch light for an indicator, right? Gene...
only one problem with this. The dash "BRAKE" light stays on until you pump the brake pedal a few times and reset the plunger position in the distribution block.
I know all this because I went thru it all when installing the line lock in my Camaro last year. Granted it was a disc brake car but it all works the same. Kept thinking I had a bad solenoid. It would not hold line pressure. After the THIRD one, I was advised (phoned tech line) of the correct installation location of the line lock. It worked fine then.
Besides, you've gotta wire a switch anyhow so a indicator light is not an issue, really.

I don't have that issue with my brake warning light. I have the lock between master and distro block. I am using the DRUM/DRUM brake distro block. Line lock on, take my foot off the pedal, idiot light comes on. Let off line lock, idiot light goes out.

That doesn't necessarily mean the plunger has fully centered itself, but does it matter? It will the next time you touch the pedal.

Tim.

Tim, not-for-nothing, but the next time I touch the pedal it'll be at 90 mph or whatever the 1/4 mile equiv is, 115-117mph??? So, like, spongy is a no go.

Yeah, I understand that. smile.gif Up to you to make the call.

Mine's already in and there is nothing wrong with the function as far as I can tell. But I haven't really used it yet. I think I've checked to see if it kept me from rolling down the driveway and that's it.

I don't see why there would be a problem putting it before the distro block, but I haven't heard any definitive answers as to all the functions that block performs either.

:confused:

Tim.

FWIW, like Tron my line-lock is before the distribution block. Used it at the track many times. Never a problem, and the use of the lock does cause the brake warning light to come on, which is pretty handy. Any concerns that you're not going to have brakes at the end of the track I think are groundless. Through the traps at 110, there've always been brakes. Just my .02.

good looking out Larry thanks.

guys i was thinking about doing something like joe aka 72SSAbody did. for some reason the links are acting funny.

check his site and go to the page showing his master cylinder setup.

http://www.geocities.com/diels12000/Brakes.html

not exactly stealthy, but it is neat and looks like it could be removed without much work.