So, about a month behind schedule, I am finally on the brake upgrade. I chose a kit, because I am a lazy-ass and don't feel like hopping dismantlers, rebuilding calipers and all that general unhappiness.

Later tonight I plan on test fitting my Billet Specialties Street Lite 17s to the C5 brakes with C6 calipers. Now, some of you may know these wheels won't fit as is. The caliper clearance is only 5/8" from the factory on these street lite an the basic C5 kit requires a little over 3/4" clearance.
In comes a 1/4" billet spacer...

But, the rest of the story comes later tonight to see how the fitment is, outer fender to inner frame to upper A arm to sway bar... The billet hubs actually detract about 12mm total from the track width, so the spacer will work two fold... negate (somewhat) the less of track width and in conjunction, decrease the backspace nearly back to original (5.5") as well as giving another .25" for caliper clearance.

Stay tuned...

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF1846.jpg

I'm old-school here and after figuring out how to do it, my car now has 1988 'Vette 13" front rotors on it along w/ '69 Camaro/1/4" wider Van big single piston calipers using my homemade caliper brackets!

It also has new Pony-car "Bullitts" on it too!

pdq67

The spacer worked. Brakes fit and look good in the wheel. I have no clearance issues for now but I can't drive it just yet. -- now to hurry and wait for my 7/8" bore M/C to show up...

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF1854.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF1855.jpg

GUess I'll start dismantling the rear suspension while I wait for the M/C to be delivered...

GUess I'll start dismantling the rear suspension while I wait for the M/C to be delivered...

Looking at your pics GenPac. What springs you running? Also, did you mount your Varishocks crossbars above or below the control arm?

Looking at your pics GenPac. What springs you running? Also, did you mount your Varishocks crossbars above or below the control arm?


Using 9.5" circle track springs (750lb) and adjusters. Varishocks mounted below the control arm which put it right in it's center for range of motion.

Using 9.5" circle track springs (750lb) and adjusters. Varishocks mounted below the control arm which put it right in it's center for range of motion.

So which spacers are you using? The standard circle track springs retainers are not big enough for the Varishocks.

So which spacers are you using? The standard circle track springs retainers are not big enough for the Varishocks.

I am using the speedway adjusters and they are big enough for varishocks. at full (bumpstop) compression and at full hang, the adjuster is not touching.

Let me illustrate that the southwest speed adjustable spacers DO fit with the large body Varishocks... This is with suspension at full droop.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF1881.jpg

I was all geared up to give her a test drive today, got to bleeding the new Wilwood tandem aluminum 7/8" Bore M/C and the damn thing would not bleed!! I couldn't get a single drop from the outlets.
So, in about two weeks :mad:, I'll have a new one to try. :sad:

I spent the afternoon bending new lines from the distribution block to the M/C. I had to bend new lines because the old setup was positioned out for a power booster.

Did you try bench bleeding the master cyl first?

Did you try bench bleeding the master cyl first?

Does a bear **** in the woods? :confused:
Actually, I'm sure a bear would **** wherever it wanted... But to answer your question without a question, yes.
I tried to bench bleed, mount bleed, bleed with tubes returning to the reservoirs, bleed with ports blocked... nothing. Not even a hint of a drop of brake fluid.
Either something internally was really foobar or the seals were phucked right out of the box.

Good news, though: I got a ship confirmation notice for the replacement M/C, so I should have it here sometime mid next week.

Hey Genpac,
You've been helping me on another thread about my rotors hitting the lower control arms. With the Kore3 kit, do the rotors move outboard from the stock disc location? I see that the wheel mounting face moves inboard, but as long as the rotor itself moves outboard then it might solve my problem. The distance from my wheel mounting surface to the outer rotor face is 2 1/8". What is it on your setup? Thanks

About 1/2" (roughly .535" on my digital caliper) from the wheel mounting surface to the braking surface on the C5 rotor.
You can get an idea of the other dimension of this kit by downloading this fitment template here:
http://www.kore3.com/downloads/fitment_templates/DOC0004.pdf
I also have my factory 11" Disc rotors here and they measured the same as yours, 2-1/8".

Been a while since I updated this thread... brakes work. The replacement M/C did the trick. So, a word of warning to you folks, if your Wilwood M/C doesn't push a drop of fluid, the internal seals might be shot. It was explained to me that at big volume places (jegs, summit) things sit on the shelf and occasionally stock doesn't get rotated out, dust accumulates and seals dry out. Sounds plausible and the good folks at Jegs sent me another one, at no cost(besides time), after recieving my non-working one that I returned.

A few things I think are important to state to those of you contemplating going to manual from power vacuum assist brakes.

1. in most applications, your brake pedal will sit much higher. This makes heel-tow shifting a lot more difficult seeng as how low our gas pedals sit to the floor board.
2. Most of the braking work is done in the last 1/3 of the pedal stroke... Now, I have yet to install a 10lb residual valve for the 'still' drum rears, this might help a lot as a good bit of the pedal is depressed before the rear drums really bite, meaning most of the inital braking is being done by the C6 calipers up front. Kinda scary in an emergency braking situation.
3. It is a really, really different feel than power assist. Longer pedal travel and a stiffer pedal on the last 1/3 is kinda foreign feeling to a manual brake virgin. (how my wife described it :p)
It is nice having the extra room in the engine compartment and around the driver's tall V/C. I have just under 6.5" of vacuum at idle so this was my solution.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF1903.jpg


When I commit to a rear disc solution (with ebrake) I'll be redoing the lines completely for an OEM look (with the pigtails off the M/C) and adding a delay valve for the front discs with a new proportioning block for Disc/Disc.
For now, it can lock up the front C6 brakes with well adequate foot pressure and is not touchy at all.

As a recap, this is a 7/8" bore manual M/C with C6 calipers / C5 rotors (325mm), braided stainless front hoses and Hawk HPS pads.

Thanks to Apogee (Pro-Touring.com) Kore3.

I am using the speedway adjusters and they are big enough for varishocks. at full (bumpstop) compression and at full hang, the adjuster is not touching.

Do you have a link/part number for this adjuster? I found that the speedway adjuster with a 2 7/8" thru hole was too close for comfort with Varishocks. I ended up making my own spring bucket that mounts on the OD of the spring.

Guys were having issues with stock shock OD and speedway adjusters.

Do you have a link/part number for this adjuster? I found that the speedway adjuster with a 2 7/8" thru hole was too close for comfort with Varishocks. I ended up making my own spring bucket that mounts on the OD of the spring.

Guys were having issues with stock shock OD and speedway adjusters.

Lemee search a bit. If I don't find it, I'll take alook at the invoice when I get home tonight. :thumbsup:

Just found the ones I ordered online. Southwest Speed, not Speedway -- my mistake.


http://southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=347

Just found the ones I ordered online. Southwest Speed, not Speedway -- my mistake.


http://southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=347

I wonder what the thru hole ID is on that spacer? If you ever have it apart, please share the dimension with us here:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251181&highlight=spacer

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258096&highlight=allstar

Also, max height on adjuster is 3.5”? I’m a bit over 4”, maybe due to the 600# rate I’m running?

Sorry I went a bit off topic.

The website states:
1 1/2" OF ADJUSTMENT ALLOWING SPRING TO BE SPACED FROM 2" TO 3 1/2"
MADE TO FIT 5" & 5 1/2" O.D. SPRINGS WITH AN I.D. OF AT LEAST 3 1/4"
THE SPRING SEAT IS 7/8" WIDE
ALLOWS STOCK SHOCK TO BE USED
IF THE SHOCKS PASS THROUGH THE CENTER OF THE SPRINGS, THE O.D. OF THE SHOCKS CANNOT EXCEED 2 1/2"

SA Varishock OD is 2" (roughly) ?
It is tough to take pictures illustrating how the shock fits inside the adjuster due to the adjuster being engulfed by the frame pocket. :( I don't have a whole lot of suspension travel (maybe 2.5"?) and I am still running the factory hard rubber bump stops at the LCA. I have had the whole assembly apart a few times for adjustment, upon reassembly I ensure the adjuster and shock are as centered as can be. I have not tacked the spacer into the spring pocket, nor have I relief cut the inner spring shoulder on the spacer (for the shock's bit of side to side travel)

I would venture that the ID of the spacer is roughly 3". Next time I have it apart (thinking of dropping from #750 to #650 front springs) I'll get the actual dimension.