I figured this would be place more LSx guys are at. I see Moroso has a pan that says it fits 65-72 Chevelles and looks similar to the Autokraft pan. Any pros/cons?

You may find more help at ls1tech.com. Im over there as well doing stuff. I just finished the install of a 5.3 in my 64. Im currently using the truck pan, but will probably be going to something else later on due to the fact that there isnt a lot of room for error on bottoming out.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260132

I would also look at the Autokraft pan since it has a build in oil filter location its pretty handy.

Trust me the AutoKraft pan is work of art and worth the price!

You may run into inner tie rod clearance issues with any of these pans... I'm having to raise my LS2 with an Autokraft pan up a little bit with motor stands about 3/4" taller than original so I can get full lock out of the steering without having either the drag link or the inner tie rods smacking the pan. On my car, it's not just a little interference but a lot-- the kicked up portions of the drag link (near the inner tie rod bosses) actually rub the pan and tries to lift the motor up with the stock motor stands and ATS mount adapters.

Kurt at Autokraft is notching my pan a bit for more tie rod clearance but you can't notch that much on the driver's side as the oil pump pickup runs right along the pan rail. Any little bit will help though. I wanted to keep the engine as low as possible but steering is a bit more important than the lowest possible engine!

The Moroso oil pan appears to drop down more at the front of the engine than the Autokraft pan which is going to make drag link & tie rod clearance even worse and require you raise the engine more.

You may run into inner tie rod clearance issues with any of these pans... I'm having to raise my LS2 with an Autokraft pan up a little bit with motor stands about 3/4" taller than original so I can get full lock out of the steering without having either the drag link or the inner tie rods smacking the pan. On my car, it's not just a little interference but a lot-- the kicked up portions of the drag link (near the inner tie rod bosses) actually rub the pan and tries to lift the motor up with the stock motor stands and ATS mount adapters.

Did you fabricate new motor stands or build off of the stockers?

Did you fabricate new motor stands or build off of the stockers?

Neither yet, I just mocked up the block, bellhousing, and trans and had to put 3/4" spacers between the factory motor stands and the frame so the tie rods & drag link will clear the Autokraft pan.

I will either build new stands entirely or machine aluminum tubular spacers that go between the ATS adapter plates and the block; haven't decided which yet.

Fabricating new stands entirely will look the cleanest IMO but will also be the most work. I can make 6 spacers to use between the block and ATS plates using some AL barstock and a lathe in 1/2 hour probably.

i just used the caddy cts pan, along with the Hooker Headers and adapters-the tie rods touch a little on lock to lock, but not bad, been like that 1 1/2 years now-i put plugs in where the grease fittings are, helps-if i ever pull the motor, i might put a slight notch in the pan-i experimented with dropping the draglink a tiny bit, didnt see any diff in steering, and did clear the pan-it was just a temp deal using junk, so i didnt leave it that way, but it would work(just a minor tweak of the idler arm/pitman arm)

i just used the caddy cts pan, along with the Hooker Headers and adapters-the tie rods touch a little on lock to lock, but not bad, been like that 1 1/2 years now-i put plugs in where the grease fittings are, helps-if i ever pull the motor, i might put a slight notch in the pan-i experimented with dropping the draglink a tiny bit, didnt see any diff in steering, and did clear the pan-it was just a temp deal using junk, so i didnt leave it that way, but it would work(just a minor tweak of the idler arm/pitman arm)

How is the fit of the CTS-V pan elsewhere? Does it hang down much below the frame rail? I'd much prefer to get something from GM, but I've heard mixed reviews about all of the OE pans.

Does the F body pan interfere with the tie rods as bad as the Autocraft? I am thinking about running a F body pan and modifying the cross member to clear the pan.

I don't see how any pan will work without raising the motor a bit; at least on my car with a DSE 600 box the drag link and inner tie rods end up WAY under the block skirts at full lock so on my car I have interference with any oil pan that sits below the block pan sealing surface at all. The tie rods almost hit the block on my car with no pan on with the engine stands at stock height.

At first I had some trouble with the F-body pan being close but once I raised the engine another 1/8" or so it cleared. Having my engine only 3/8" off the firewall helps as well.

I have the moroso pan. It fits great and is reasonably priced. Down sides are the non standard use of fasteners. The rear pan bolts are normally very long on the stock pan cause it has that thick mounting area. The moroso pan is a thin rail all the way around so you gotta get to extra side bolts to bolt up the pan. Other thing is that you have to run a remote oil filter. This wasnt a problem for me and actually was a plus as I can plumb my turbos and an oil cooler easier. You have to buy the matching oil pickup tube so figure that into the cost. It has hinged baffles and holds more oil than stock even though its notched deeper for early GMs. All in all Im happy with it, you gotta figure stuff out on your own cause the instructions suck but if your good with motors its nothing that you cant handle.

I have the moroso pan. It fits great and is reasonably priced. Down sides are the non standard use of fasteners. The rear pan bolts are normally very long on the stock pan cause it has that thick mounting area. The moroso pan is a thin rail all the way around so you gotta get to extra side bolts to bolt up the pan. Other thing is that you have to run a remote oil filter. This wasnt a problem for me and actually was a plus as I can plumb my turbos and an oil cooler easier. You have to buy the matching oil pickup tube so figure that into the cost. It has hinged baffles and holds more oil than stock even though its notched deeper for early GMs. All in all Im happy with it, you gotta figure stuff out on your own cause the instructions suck but if your good with motors its nothing that you cant handle.

Thanks, thats what I was hoping to hear. I like the looks better of the sheetmetal pans, like the Moroso, Autokraft, and ATS pans, also I like the remote oil filter....but I can get the GM pans for cheap. Even though this is a GM motor going in to a GM vehicle, this is obviously still a custom job requiring fab work and massaging regardless what you buy. It's all boils down to what fits the best for what price.

Thanks yall for the information :thumbsup:

GM now offers a "Muscle Car" pan. Not sure of fitment.

The muscle car pan, aka the Hummer H3 LH8 engine oil pan, has been discussed alot and hangs a good 1.5"-2" below the front crossmember unless when used with the BRP Hotrods motor mount kit. Not a bad plan, but I just want to do what I can to keep costs down.

i'm going to attempt dropping in my F-Body LS with stock oil pan this weekend. In looking at it last night it might be easier to bolt up the trans after the engine is mounted. Looks like a tight fit either way!

Thanks for the info about the Moroso and Autokraft. I saw the Moroso pan in the latest Jeggs catalog and was wondering about that.

there are two combos of engine mounts/stands; short/wide and tall/narrow. each ends up being the same height when used in the proper combo. but, i took the taller of each, and ended up raising the motor. i had to drill new holes, but i moved the motor back at the same time. also, the stand had to be narrowed in order to allow the narrower motor mount to slide over it. it looks factory and i dont see a better way of doing it.

excuse the phillips holding the motor together.....

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/23712232403.jpg?1233972447

Tim