I have the entire front part of my '68 dismantled...fenders, inner fenders, hood, radiator support, etc. I also have the entire front suspension removed, steering column, and shift linkage.

I've decided to remove my engine and transmission so I can properly clean all of the gunk and grease and paint the firewall, frame, and engine itself.
This will be the first time I've ever removed an engine.

I have both motor mount bolts removed, both bolts removed from the transmission to the crossmember, the wiring harness unplugged from the firewall, and the fuel line disconnected.

1) Is there anything else I need to remove or disconnect before I attempt to remove the engine?

2) I have an aluminum manifold. Can I use one of those plates that attach to the manifold (where the carburetor goes) to remove the engine and transmission at the same time?

3) If I use an engine lifting sling / chain instead, where should I connect the two ends of the sling to lift the engine and transmission?

Thanks,
-Greg

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I have used lifting plates on aluminum manifolds, but I have not used them when trying to pull both the engine and transmission at the same time.

1. I dont know what trans you have but I know my TH350 peed all over the garage floor when I pulled the driveshaft. Since you said you havn't pulled one before I would invest in a tailshaft plug or something like that. dont forget the speedo cable as well, I have missed that before.

2. I got chain and attached it to the accessory spots on the side of the heads when I pulled mine and put it back in. Wait to see if anyone else chimes in.


Ive only done it about 3-4 times but after you get through the first time its a breeze the next.

put a plug in the tailshaft of the trans- i keep a few extra driveshaft yokes around for just that purpose.
yes, the lift plate will work fine. no need for cumbersome chains. just make sure the bolts are tight and go more than 1/2" into the intake.
as you sit right now, you are literally 30 seconds from having the motor sitting on the floor- assuming you got all the ground wires and speedo cable unhooked.

I used a lifting plate bolted to an aluminum manifold when installing my 454/700R4 bolted together. It held fine. I used the hole closest to the firewall so the engine/trans would be most level when installing. There is a pic in my sig.

How about the exhaust pipes? If it's a 4-speed car the Z bar and return spring will have to come off along with the shifter.

Just pull it slow and look for any wires, cables or anything else that might be connected or caught as the engine moves out. I usually do it myself, but two people will make it a lot easier.

It should be a piece of cake with the front end already removed... I would use whateveh you have on hand (lift plate of chain).. Also a ziplock freezer bag duct taped to the tailshaft works to keep all the trans fluid off of the floor as well..

Removing the distributor or at least the distributor cap to keep it from getting broken. You should remove the transmission crossmenber once you have the assenbly hooked up to the lift.
Squido

Thanks for the answers.
It sounds like I'm all set to go ahead with this, and I feel more confident about my aluminum manifold being okay to use with the lifting plate that I got from Summit, now that a couple of you have told me it's safe to do so.

A local rental place rents engine hoists / "cherry pickers" for $18 a day.
I'm going to head up there in the morning and rent one for the day.

-Greg

I just pulled a 283 and powerglide out of my 66. i wish i removed the headers cause the bracket on the drivers side of the tranny i think it was the shifting bracket broke my balls. next time i am removing the headers and the guys are correct tranny fluid everywhere what a mess. but man it was fun. i used a chain because i was afraid the new 350 and th350 were too heavy. just pay attention when pulling it make sure everything is disconnected and it will come out very smooth. good luck:beers::thumbsup:

I just pulled a 283 and powerglide out of my 66...i used a chain because i was afraid the new 350 and th350 were too heavy.

Where on the engine did you bolt the chain?

Thanks,
-Greg

If you use chain, it's best to hook them up to the accessory holes on the heads on opposite corners...

68 doesn't have accessory holes in the heads. Your using the lift plate anyway. I've chain lifted them from the intake manifold bolts also. Disconnect your gas pedal rod to the carb also.

I've generally run one end of the chain to the rear-most intake manifold bolt on one side. I pick a bolt further forward on the other side to get a reasonable balance.

I also bolt a very short length of chain to the main chain on each side of the hook that I'm lifting with. That way the hook can't slip in the middle of the job, which can drastically change the engine balance. I'll bet you can guess how I know that!

If you still have cast iron exhaust manifolds attached, try running chain thru and back up, i have never trusted aluminum manifold threads, just too much pull in too small an area, the added weight of the trans just makes it worse, i had an engine fall once when a plate pulled in to....they fall very fast:yes:..Also use baggies and rubber bands to seal off inlet and outlet on block, along with trans lines if an automatic...water, trans fluid makes for slippery and dangerous floors, when you 're dealing with that much weight. Lastly, keep boom as close as possible to prevent tipping cherry picker over.....ask me how i know....don't work alone..get someone to just watch for ground cables, straps, anything that might get snagged
on the way out...remember Murphys law,............ yanking a motor can be fun, it also can cripple you.....be careful....good luck:thumbsup: