Well, I finally got around to getting an alignment after installing a complete PST Super Front End kit with the polygraphite bushings. I also upgraded to a 1 1/8" front sway bar. I don't currently have a sway bar on the back, btw.

The steering linkage was replaced including a new centerlink. The only thing not replaced was the Pitman arm which doesn't wear anyway.

However, even with the alignment, I don't feel like the car is as tight as I had hoped it would be. Also, there is still a very slight wander to it. I watched the car being aligned and it was done by a trusted friend. The toe and caster was well within spec. However, the camber was a smidge out at .6*, I believe. Is the tolerance .5*? I need to get my spec sheet that they gave me. He said it was as close as he could get it. Any possible problems there?

So, the question is: what do I need to check first and how to tackle this? I still have the stock 34 year old springs, as I didn't have the money at the time to replace them. I would only replace them as a last resort as it's a PITA.

1. I'll check my tire pressure. Might be as simple as that. BTW, I'm running 235/60 Coker Pro Trac's on the front and M/T Sportsman Pro 28x10's on the back. Bias ply tires all the way around, which might be a leading contributor. I know that they don't compare to a decent radial. Obviously a new set of radial tires would be nice, but a bit pricey for me at this stage of the game.

2. New shocks. I need them. I've got 15+ year old Monroe's on right now.

3. What about the gearbox? I know it has some adjustment left, but how do you do that?

4. What about the rag joint? What does it really do? What do I need to look for on this?

It doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance, or at least I don't think. It's not bumpy, just a bit on the wandering side. It's a bit tighter than the original setup, but just not what I expected. This is the 3rd set of polygraphite bushings that I've dealt with. My 2nd set, plus my brother has used them.

I'm a little concerned that I've gotten used to driving my '95 GMC Sierra and have forgotten what it was like to drive my '70 everyday. Have I gotten soft?

Any suggestions as to what order to approach things or something I might have left out would be great! smile.gif

I would think with all that work everything would be good. I did basically the same thing as you except I put new shocks on and I did a "homemade-don't know what I'm doing" alignment. The only difference is I have radial tires. My experience with bias ply tires is that they grab every little crack in the road. I know the alignment specs are different between radials and bias plys. I think they run more caster for the bias tires to help it track straighter. Maybe this is something you can ask the person who did the alignment.

Jeff

Originally posted by 70_FathomBlueMalibu:
4. What about the rag joint? What does it really do? What do I need to look for on this?
Think of it as a shock absorber for your steering wheel. I would take it off and inspect it for visible damage. If nothing seems damaged, it's probably OK. You can get rebuild kits for these fairly cheap. There's also a guy from Canada who sells rebuilt ones on eBay, that are nicely cad plated.

This is the same problem I am having with my 1971 Chevelle..but I went another step and replaced the power steering box..my car does have the polyglass tires on it..do you think this would cause our problems..


Originally posted by 70_FathomBlueMalibu:
Well, I finally got around to getting an alignment after installing a complete PST Super Front End kit with the polygraphite bushings. I also upgraded to a 1 1/8" front sway bar. I don't currently have a sway bar on the back, btw.

The steering linkage was replaced including a new centerlink. The only thing not replaced was the Pitman arm which doesn't wear anyway.

However, even with the alignment, I don't feel like the car is as tight as I had hoped it would be. Also, there is still a very slight wander to it. I watched the car being aligned and it was done by a trusted friend. The toe and caster was well within spec. However, the camber was a smidge out at .6*, I believe. Is the tolerance .5*? I need to get my spec sheet that they gave me. He said it was as close as he could get it. Any possible problems there?

So, the question is: what do I need to check first and how to tackle this? I still have the stock 34 year old springs, as I didn't have the money at the time to replace them. I would only replace them as a last resort as it's a PITA.

1. I'll check my tire pressure. Might be as simple as that. BTW, I'm running 235/60 Coker Pro Trac's on the front and M/T Sportsman Pro 28x10's on the back. Bias ply tires all the way around, which might be a leading contributor. I know that they don't compare to a decent radial. Obviously a new set of radial tires would be nice, but a bit pricey for me at this stage of the game.

2. New shocks. I need them. I've got 15+ year old Monroe's on right now.

3. What about the gearbox? I know it has some adjustment left, but how do you do that?

4. What about the rag joint? What does it really do? What do I need to look for on this?

It doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance, or at least I don't think. It's not bumpy, just a bit on the wandering side. It's a bit tighter than the original setup, but just not what I expected. This is the 3rd set of polygraphite bushings that I've dealt with. My 2nd set, plus my brother has used them.

I'm a little concerned that I've gotten used to driving my '95 GMC Sierra and have forgotten what it was like to drive my '70 everyday. Have I gotten soft?

Any suggestions as to what order to approach things or something I might have left out would be great! smile.gif

I have manual steering, btw. My dad replaced the original steering box years ago with a salvage yard unit. It still has some adjustment left on it.

I didn't think about the bias ply tires requiring a slightly different alignment setting. Those bias meats sure do like to grab the cracks don't they? I wish they made a tire that handled like a nice radial, but had the looks of bias ply meats.

If the rag joint was bad, what would it cause the car to feel like?

I had a similar problem as you, replacing the front with PST bushings and sway bar the car felt wishy washy until I replaced the rear suspension bushings from PST some time later with a rear sway bar, I don't remember the diameter but it was what comes from PST. I also have goodrich t/a's. Its not quite as good as my sons Eclipse,but it is a WHOLE lot better than before.

I'm kinda thinking the same thing about the sway bar issue. I wonder if using a 1 1/8" bar on the front and no bar on the rear is causing a slight irregularity in steering.

I hope to be getting a set of factory rear boxed lower control arms soon. I'll be throwing a 7/8" or 1" rear bar when I do. Maybe that will help out.

Manual steering on these cars is much too loose IMO, a quick PS box would work wonders. When everything is right the car will track straight with no hands on the wheel and will respond to the wheel input nicely, certainly not the same as a rack setup but predictable.

How much play in the steering wheel would be considered excessive? I guess I could mark a spot on the wheel and measure how bad it is.

Do you think that the tires Polyglass can cause all the trouble..?


Originally posted by drptop70ss:
Manual steering on these cars is much too loose IMO, a quick PS box would work wonders. When everything is right the car will track straight with no hands on the wheel and will respond to the wheel input nicely, certainly not the same as a rack setup but predictable.

I have never tried polyglass tires, any that I had were so old I wouldnt consider them. I used to run older BFGs in the 80s that I believe were bias ply non radials and they worked fine when they were new. If your front end is new and tight then I would certainly try a set of radials but the alignment can make or break how a car drives and feels. Maybe someone here can post some recommended specs that work and you can compare to what yours is set up to.

Justin,

A badly worn rag joint will cause the car to wander. When I converted from manual to a quick ratio AGR ps box and radial front & rear tires, my steering & handling improved a bunch. I still have a nearly new manual box if you need one.