Has anyone tried to box there own frame? I want to duplicate the convertables and elky's but DIY it. I'm thinking of having C type sections bent up by a welding shop to my sketch and then cut to length and weld them in. One problem area is the transmission cross member. I was thinking of cutting it off flush with inside of my new boxed area and welding plates to each end to mate up with the new verticle wall. Then drill for 3/8" or 1/2" Rivnuts and bolt her up. You can get Rivnuts from McMaster Carr or others. Also, why not add another cross member halfway back to act as a driveshaft safety loop (yes it would have to clear the exhaust pipes). A full roll cage would work too! Any thoughts would be appreciated.

http://members.aol.com/smartasreality/images/frame05-27-02c.jpg i used an elky frame to start with , but then i boxed the rear sections. why not just weld plates in like this and leave a gap for the original crossmember?

Bob,

I have boxed my frame as well. Check out Frame Page (http://www.buffnet.net/~airrj/Frame%20modifications.html) They aren't the greatest pictures but you get the idea. I am going to do just as you suggested for my crossmember. I am going to cut the stock crossmember off and weld flat stock on the end, and then use four 3/8" Rivnuts on each side to hold the crossmember in. I plan to start on this tomorrow. Hopefully I can get some new photos for you.

I feel that the front section of the open frame is the weakest part of the car, and causes the most unwanted flex. This is why I fully boxed this section and if you look closely the box section overlaps the front frame horn to strenghten that area as much as possible.

I will try to get some new photos for you this weekend.

The factory boxed frame is completely different than the standard frame. That is they did not just add metal to the standard frame. The outside rail is also different. Notice in the photo how the body mounts are part of the outside rail. On the standard frame they are not. You can also see the crossmember supports in the photo. Boxing the standard frame will improve its strength if done properly, but trying to duplicate the factory frame will be tough. This is a picture of a 64 elky frame and should be the same up to 67. I am not familiar with the 68-72 configurations.
http://www.citlink.net/~bowtie/photos/frame6.jpg

they boxed the 68-72 the same way. http://members.aol.com/smartasreality/images/frame-3-11-03b.jpg
http://members.aol.com/smartasreality/page04.html

and airrj, i really like what you did to the lower rear control arm mounts. graemlins/thumbsup.gif i wish i did that. i missed that one. the other things you did are nice too, but i am not sure they are helping a great deal? did you move the front upper control arm mounts out? boxing your frame and the mounts is good. if you moved the mounts out how far apart did you go?

Phillip, I'm diggin' the snow tires graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Just a bit of trivia. ALL Buick Gran Sports in 65-66 were boxed, coupes, sedans and convertibles. They all used the convertible frame. graemlins/waving.gif

so did the `67 GS`s as well,from 65-67 all GS`s had the boxed convertible frame.

ThankS

Pete,

Most all of my chassis mods came from our street stock race cars that we built. The upper spring pocket would take a pretty good beating and in turn would start to crack and bend the upper A-arm mount. And so no I didn't move the the mount at all we just beefed it up. I really don't expect to do the same damage to that area with my street Chevelle since the race car had 1400# springs and it was on a 28 to 30 degree banked track, but it looks cool and I had a free welder/fabricator at hand. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Bob,

I am still working on my transmission mount. I had several motor mount issues this weekend that I finally solved. I will let you know as soon as I make some progress.

George, I don't think so. Couldn't you tell me the answer, YOU have one. smile.gif I think by then Buick had "lightened up" on the "build it like a friggin tractor" idea with the Gran Sport. In '65-'66 it was literally a completly different car from the Skylark. It had bigger brakes, bigger wheel cylenders, bigger wheel bearingsm, forged clutch parts like the bell crank, different wiring harness, etc. And the motor was like an engine swap with Gran Sport only exhaust manifolds, oil pan, motor mounts and brackets, etc. I really don't see how they made any money on the darn thing. My guess is they didn't. They HAD to offer it as per GM. But they had gotten out of the performace car image with the closing of the Buick racing parts division "Export" about 1957. I really think that when GM said build the A body muscle car they built the tank that is the '65 Gran Sport thinking that it would all blow over. By the way, even though it was a heavy car, and the motor is not nearly as efficient as the late 400/430/455 they still run. Mine, basically stock ran 13:88 @ 99.99.

Oh yeah, this is the brakes and suspenion forum smile.gif Sorry guys. smile.gif

Yes,65-67 GS`s had the boxed chassis,68-72 they stopped using them and went with the regular open chassis,i have a 67 and a 65 GS both are boxed frames.

Thanks

I'm sorry George, I thought in your previous post you were ASKING if the '67 had a boxed frame. graemlins/clonk.gif

Of course you would know! Sorry

where do i know you from?


Thanks

I have no idea George, maybe the Buick nailhead email group?

yea maybe,are u part of the BPG group?

Thanks for all the suggestions and Buick talk, back then you got what you paid for kind of like GMC vs Chevy trucks. I realize boxing like I'm suggesting is not as good as the factory job but should help a bunch for the street. When I get to that point in the project I'll make a list of all the other braces etc. suggested. RJ, great minds think alike! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Bob you might consider leaving the area where the Transmission crossmember is open that way you would not have to replace or modify the existing one.