Can they be mounted either end to front or back. They look like they are the same on both ends. The reason I am asking I just finished taking mine out and noticed there are holes in the arms with the correct spacing for a rear sway bar but they are near the front of the arm (the way it was installed anyway). I believe these are original arms for my 65 but can't be sure. The bolts had 39 years of rust anyway.Brutal job getting them out but still fun non the less


Jerry

Unless you plan on putting the rear sway bar in, they can go on either way.

Thanks Tom, Yes I am putting on a sway bar, I just have not received it yet. I was going by measurements on a previous post on here.Do you know the bolt size for the sway bar? These holes are 5/16 I believe but I thought I read that they should be 7/16.

Jerry

The sway bar takes 7/16" bolts. You are going to have to drill out the holes to accept the bolts. Also, now would be a good time to get the kit to box them so that you don't crush the trailing arm when you bolt that sway bar on graemlins/thumbsup.gif .

Yes sir, I actually have 1 on order along with the boxing kit. But, I have another question. I picked up new energy suspension bushings today. I removed 1 of the old rubbers and centre sleeve but not the shell. The instructions say to use the old shell but the new poly bushing is way sloppy in there. Am I missing something here or should I be removing the shell also (if possible)

Thanks for the help

Jerry

When I did the arms in my 69, I used OEM rubber bushing that came with the sleeves. Getting the sleeves out is not that hard if you have an air chisel smile.gif . Putting them back in without twisting the arm is another story. I would take them to a machine shop and see what they tell you if they are sloppy. This is one reason why I upgraded to the Hotchkis trailing arm kit in my 70. They are solid, already have the polyurethane bushings in them, and have the sway bar holes drilled out. No worrying about boxing them and replacing the bushings. The bushings in those arms are also greasable.

Jerry, could you get a picture or 2 of those bushings for me? I'm thinking about building my own arms and was thinking that maybe I could just find some tubing that those bushings would fit in and use that for the arm ends. The problem is that the only way for me to actually see the bushings is to buy them. I haven't found anyone around here that has bushings in stock. If you can't get a picture I'd settly for a description and some measurements.

Strange they don't fit tight since they're supposed to be installed that way.

Peter

I used that type several years ago. IIRC, they were a very snug fit. Had to freze them to get them in. Also, did your kit come with washer type bushings. My original ES kit did not and the bushings moved in the shells. This caused the shells to wear into the arm mounts on the car. They cut a circular groove almost a 1/16" deep. The washer bushing keep this from happening.

Pat, this kit did come with the washer bushing. The bushings are very loose in the shell.Do you mean if I use the washer bushing also they should be ok? I thought they would just help on side to side movement.

Jerry

I don't know. Mine were tight. I suggest calling ES. They might want you to measure the shells and bushings. BTW, the last 2 sets I used came with the bushing installed in new shells.

Mine have the new shells also but it says to use the old. The new shells are also smaller than the existing

Jerry

Sounds like they were mis-packaged. I'd call.

I phoned and all the part numbers are right. After taking careful measurements it appears I have to use the new shells also. It didn't look like they would fit but the new shells are actually a thicker material. I removed 1 of the old shells and sure as god made little green apples, they will work. I should have checked a little better in the first place. graemlins/clonk.gif Oh well, not the first time I have to jumped to a hasty conclusion. Thanks for the input fellas

Jerry