I have installed a gauge package in my 67 SS. It came with the standard warning lights. I bought the gauge package from OPG. My Fuel gauge and my alternator guge do no work properl. My fuel gauge will move just a little, not even to the E mark. I have checked the ground at the tank. If I unplug the wire going to the sending unti the gauge goes all the way above full. So this tells me that the wiring is good. Also, my alternator gauge does not work. I do have power there at the gauge and the gauge is correctly wired. Any help???

For the fuel gauge, it sounds like the sending unit may be at fault. You can test the gauge by hooking it up to a rheostat and seeing if the gauge readings will work with varying resistance (which is what the sending unit is supposed to do).

I will check that, but I forgot to post that I have installed a new tank and a new sending unit.

Try a jumper/clip/test lead from a clean metal point on the frame to the body of the sending unit (to ensure the sender has a good reference ground). Many times the fresh paint/coating on the tank won't conduct to the frame.

Thanks, I will try that and see if that will help.

I will check that, but I forgot to post that I have installed a new tank and a new sending unit.

Always test a new sending unit with a ohm meter before installing. There was a run of bad sending units which several members have had the joy of removing it and replacing again.

When you converted to gauges, did you replace the dash and FWD lamp harness?

No, I did not replace the dash and Front wiring harness. I did try a jumper on the sending unit. No luck. This has turned out to be a 2008 1967 SS Chevelle since I have replaced most of this ol baby, lol.

Pull the sending unit and with it still wired to the car, move the float manually and see if the gauge responds in any way. If not, you then need to test the ohm range of the sending unit and the ohm range of the gauge, one or the other must be off. Knowing the working range of each and knowing what they SHOULD be will tell you which is not working correctly. Seeing as both are reproductions it's about a 50/50 shot as to which is at fault.

If both work as they should, perhaps the float isn't floating as it should.

I had a simular problem with my 65 El Camino. The original sending unit I removed had 90 ohms stamped right on it. It was in real bad shape so I bought another, ASSUMING it would also be 0 to 90 ohms. I installed an Autometer gauge..0 TO 90 OHMS. Well the reproduction sending unit works on 0 to 30 ohms. Which I found out after it was installled and wouldn't read over empty. Bought another $52 Autometer fuel gauge, this time 0 to 30 ohms and problem solved. I wish I would of checked the new sending unit in the tank BEFORE I installed it and filled it with gas. Check everything and assume nothing.

Also, my alternator gauge does not work. I do have power there at the gauge and the gauge is correctly wired. Any help???

How did you wire the amp gauge? The factory amp gauge is wired to 2 battery hot places, the horn relay buss bar and the junction block on rad support. Did you wire it like that?

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/Chevy_old_with_amp_gauge.jpg