Now before you all flame me I did a search in this forum and could not find the info I need. I recently converted my 66 factory 4 wheel drum brake car from a single master cylinder to a 67 dual master. This is also a non power brake car ok. My life has not been the same since, to long of a story to post. I have been dealing with two well known Brake Line Companies and I still do not have a 100% correct set of stainless lines that will fit. In the line kit from the last company they sent me a distrubition block that mounts on a bracket on the drivers side of the M/C. A neat set up gets the block away from the header tubes. A very simple conversion one would think, well I cannot get a drop of fluid out of the rear bleeders, both front bleed good. I also just installed a full set of Praise Dyno Brake Shoes and wheel cylinders. The rubber flex lines are only 4 years old. The dual M/C is a rebuilt unit, I wanted a new one and could not find one. Also I DID NOT bench bleed the M/C, I did not want to chance spilling dot 4 on my fender wheels trying to install a cylinder full of fluid. I am trying to get ready for a 3 day show in Myrtle Beach, S.C, it is a large show and I stand to loose my motel payment and entry fee if I cannot get this heap on the road. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Jesse

Jesse,

I can appreciate your concern about the possible spilling a brake fluid but by NOT bench bleeding the MC, it will take much longer to bleed the brakes due to the possible (probable?) trapped air. When I did my car ('69), I too tried to gravity bleed and had NO LUCK! So, my wife and I teamed up together and did it the old-fashioned way-she pushed SLOWLY on the pedal, and I went around and cracked the bleeder fittings. It took a while but it worked. I did it all again after driving the car just a little bit because the initial pedal felt too loose to suit me. After the second time, no problems at all and that was four yrs. ago. I also used silicone brake fluid and so far, so good. Good luck!

That could very well be what I am up against, I could not get any help today, my wife went shopping with a friend. I have always used the method you and your wife did for years, like 45 or so but with no one around I figured I would try the gravity deal. I only hope they will bleed out like yours did. It's just that with all the problems I had with the lines and now it is still giving me a fit. If I could turn back the clock I believe I would leave the single M/C installed, it had served me well for 38 years. This has been a real goat rope for sure. Thanks for the info.

Jesse

I bought some Earl's one-man bleeder valves, a little $4 plastic bottle contraption from the parts store, and bled my rear brakes myself. The one-man bleeders are great, you just loosen it slightly, stick the tube in it that connects to the little plastic bottle, and then sit in the car slowly pumping the brakes. I'd check the line and the bottle level every couple of pumps. When you have no more bubbles, you're done. Took me less than an hour to bleed my rear brakes just a couple weeks back after having the rearend out.

Had this problem on my 66 1/2ton after changing out Master Cylinder. No way could I get the back brakes to bleed, I tried everything, and I mean everything. Gravity, speed bleeders, pump for hours, re bled master 3 times. The only thing that worked was a vacum bleeder. And it took 20" of vacum to bleed them.

Good news is pedal firmer then ever.
Steve

I'm lucky. Bought a used pressure bleeder from a retired mechanic a few years ago! No more bleeding problems! Hehehe. ;)

like these Speed bleeders Brian? (http://www.speedbleeder.com/)