Well, the topic says it all. I am getting very frustrated with my brakes.
The problem: brake warning light will not go out.

What I have done: new brake lines, used front disc off a 71 monte carlo (came with booster, MC, and combination valve) I used the MC as a core for a new one.

I have bench bled the MC twice, the second time I plugged the outlet holes and tried to push the pistion in and could not (which means I got all the air out), I have bled the entire system numerous times. I get great flow out of all 4 wheels. Today I took it out for a drive and the brakes felt great. I even make the tire(s) squeal. I don't have the vacuum hose hooked up so for now it is just manual. On the advice of Shurkey from this thread: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27846&highlight=reset+combination+valve
I touched the front discs and the rear drums and they were all hot! So it seems all the brakes are working.
I also held the button in on the combination valve when I bled the driver's side front. I am out of idea and wondering what to do next. I have searched this site for hours and tried all of the recommendations that I have found. I hope I don't have to buy a new combination valve?
The SC&C stage II with bilstein shocks upgrade is finally done but I still cannot drive it.
HELP!

thanks for your time.
Ben

Possible the warning switch has gone bad? I have talked to a guy recently that mentioned that the slider piece inside that valve can end up one way or another, triggering the light, and has no way to move back to center since there is equal pressure on both sides (warning switch is in the middle) when the brakes are working correctly.
Hope this helps.
Chris

I am going out on a limb here, but doesn't the light come on if a brake light bulb is out?

Sounds like the brakes are fine, it is a bulb or brake light switch.

nope- the brake light is only turned on by the switch in the prop valve and by the parking brake being applied..
which brings up an interesting idea that i'm sure was the first thing checked. the parking brake pedal is all the way up- right? and i'm sure the wire going to the switch in the parking brake has already been unhooked just to verify that the light isn't being held on by a bad switch..

nope- the brake light is only turned on by the switch in the prop valve and by the parking brake being applied..
which brings up an interesting idea that i'm sure was the first thing checked. the parking brake pedal is all the way up- right? and i'm sure the wire going to the switch in the parking brake has already been unhooked just to verify that the light isn't being held on by a bad switch..

If the e brake is ok it has to be the prop valve thats all ther is to it. When i worked at Midas years ago sometimes you would have to pull that rod out and reset it after a brake job.

To center the switch and make the light go out, bleed the other end of the system. It used to be a pita to get the valve/switch centered. Gotta have someone in the car watching the light and hope you have quick reflexes as you bleed one end, then bleed the other, and the other again, and on and on.....

nope- the brake light is only turned on by the switch in the prop valve and by the parking brake being applied..
which brings up an interesting idea that i'm sure was the first thing checked. the parking brake pedal is all the way up- right? and i'm sure the wire going to the switch in the parking brake has already been unhooked just to verify that the light isn't being held on by a bad switch..

the parking brake is all the way up. I'm checking the switch now, i'm having a hard time getting to the wire. The circuit breaker box is getting in my way.

Unhooked the wire, started the car- light is still on

Good idea though

You unhooked the wire at the emergency brake?

Now unhook the wire at the safety valve. Your dash light BETTER be un-lit!

Maybe there's a section of one of those wires that's grounded on the body because the insulation is worn or otherwise damaged.

Did you ever tap the valve with a small brass/plastic hammer to see if you could jiggle the safety valve into the neutral (light off) position?

Ben,
Unhook the wire at the proportioning valve. If the light goes out than you know it is the switch in the valve that is turning it on. Then you have to figure out a way to center the valve.

yes the light goes out when I unplug it from the combination valve. And I have tapped the combination valve lightly- still nothing
So, we have determined I need to center the valve, are there any new ideas I could try??
thanks for your patience!
Ben

yes the light goes out when I unplug it from the combination valve. And I have tapped the combination valve lightly- still nothing
So, we have determined I need to center the valve, are there any new ideas I could try??
thanks for your patience!
Ben
If it won't self-center...

To center the switch and make the light go out, bleed the other end of the system. It used to be a pita to get the valve/switch centered. Gotta have someone in the car watching the light and hope you have quick reflexes as you bleed one end, then bleed the other, and the other again, and on and on.....
The only thing I can add is that you have to have the guy in the car PUSHING THE BRAKE PEDAL before you crack open the bleeder VERY SLIGHTLY to relieve brake pressure in one hydraulic circuit.

The whole point is to produce an unequal pressure in the hydraulic system that will shove the valve back to center. But not beyond center and to the other end of it's travel.

Which end of the car do you start with??? Good question. Unless you repaired a defect on the front or the rear brakes--you have no idea which way the valve has been moved--so you have no idea which way you have to push it to get it to center. TOTALLY TRIAL AND ERROR.

Nope, it's no fun at all. Which is why I have tended to like the GM valves more than the Ford valves--I've never had to manually center a GM valve.

I guess there's always a first time.

Try this: Hit the brake pedal with your foot ( Very Quick & Very Hard ) like your trying to blow a wheel cyl. This is cave man mentality, It has worked for me many times.
Bob

I'd pull the bulb. ;)

Robinls5- I tried that and nothing. Thanks though.
Derek- The thought has crossed my mind, and I probably would do that for anything else other than the brakes.

I'm going to drag the wife in and see if we can try the bleeding method mentioned above. Thanks for all the comments!!

Robin's method usually works for me.

i'd pull the bulb or leave the wire unhooked- if your brakes ever lose pressure, you won't need a stupid light to tell you so. you will know.
actually, i'd just unhook it from the prop valve and leave the parking brake one hooked up- that way, you'll know if you ever accidentally bump the pedal.

I may end up doing that. I am just about to get the wife to help me bleed as suggested.
I just got back from Napa with the booster check valve and hose. Got it hooked up, and drove around the block. Stops excellent!! So I know the brakes are working properly.

Success!!!! I bled the left front- left rear- left front-left rear and the light went out! Only took about 2 minutes. Thank you to all that have helped out!
Now to the alignment shop
Ben

The combination valve from the Monte Carlo. Did it come from a recently operational car ? I have dis-assembled many of these from junkyards and found a rusty sludge buildup inside causing moving parts to stick when they should move freely. They are pretty easy to dis-assemble, clean & reassemble - just don't damage any of the rubber seals. Might be your problem ?

Good Luck
S5757S