Another 283 question for the old timers---- It was my intention to move the balancer from my 327 to my 283- the 283 is together now, on a stand in my garage- The crank was re-done .010 under, the shop seems to have done a fine job all around... BUT---- They didn't happen to drill a bolt hole in the front of the crank, as it never had one, and I didn't happen to ask them to. The balancer from the 283 is really dinky and advice from both TC and the machine shop was to use a 'real' balancer. But with no washer to hold it on, what should I do? I'm not willing to take the crank out to take it back there and I have no way to move the engine as a whole. Yikes. The farther I get the more trouble I have. Thanks for the help in advance.

Richie the regretful :sad:

The machine shop should be able to drill that with no problem, on the stand - provided you can get it to them. Otherwise, get a variable speed drill, the dampner bolt kit, a sharp bit, a flat bottom tap and do it your self. I have done this several times with no problems. I am sure that others here will have advice also... do not be afraid of doing it.... it is not a big deal to do.

oops.... you asked for help from the 'old timers' here. I think you mean pdq or older?
:D

The guy at the machine shop (I trust him) says that he's built plenty of 327's together without the damper washer and that I'll be OK. Is this nuts? I remember getting balancer on with a hammer, it would never go anyplace...

IF you were building a stock, 283/327 - no performance then I would think you would fine.
Once you start making horsepower then you need to insure that you keep things from coming apart. A bolt is a good way to keep the balancer on. By the way, hammering on the balancer is never a good idea.

Stock no bolt balancer on a 283 comes smooth off, somewhere over 7000. Can do badthings. Like friggin ruin a crank snout and worse.

Drill it.

I used to do them by putting the balancer on enough that it was good and square to the centerline, then I have a bushing that fits the ID of the balancer with a center hole for my bit,,, to get me drilling straight. I haven't seen that bushing in a long time. It's just a piece of round mild steel with a hole in it, hell you could probly use a socket or something. I've done them 3/8 too, vs 7/16.

You don't need a big old wart balancer on a 283, just slows him down. Use the itty bitty one.

Thanks for the replies---- This motor will never make more than 5000 rpms. Heck my stock TH350 shifts my 327 at 3500 or so with my foot on the floor! That's the tranny that will stay in for now. I was going to use the 6.75" balancer? :confused:

I used to do them by putting the balancer on enough that it was good and square to the centerline, then I have a bushing that fits the ID of the balancer with a center hole for my bit,,, to get me drilling straight. I haven't seen that bushing in a long time. It's just a piece of round mild steel with a hole in it, hell you could probly use a socket or something.

You can use an old distributor gear as a drill bushing.

I believe the 283 crank has a dimple at the center of the snout? It is easy to center.

Yes, it has a cute little dimple.... OK, I'll drill.... Since the bolt is still in the car I'm driving, what size, and how far in do I need to go? I'm not confident about this! Thank for the help.

Go to a good parts shop, get the bolt kit and ask the counter guy what size drill bit and tap you will need. After you drill the hole, be sure to use some sort of lube when cutting the threads. I am sure that we have TC members that will tell you the bit size and the tap size. You will then see how long the bolt threads are and it will give you an idea about how deep to punch the hole.

7/16-20 and a 25/64 drill bit :D