I purchased a set of the Tubular Rear Control arms from the BMR group buy- I want to get these put on- but I don't have the tools or ability to remove the old bushings from the differential ears- and install the new poly ones.

What kind of shop should I look for to do this work? A rear end shop, or a suspension specialty shop?

I have no worries about installing the upper and lower arms myself- but i want someone else to remove and install the new bushing in the diff housing.

Thanks-
Ben

Ben,

I just finished doing this on my 69 elky.. it's REALLY not a big deal. The only tools you need are a drill, an air-chisel, and a big hammer - you could probably do it without the air chisel, too. You'll also need to make a tool (parts list below).

http://www.derekf.com/images/10270208.gif

I bought all the parts for this at Home Depot or Lowes.. cost about 8 bucks total.
Parts list:

2 2" threaded pipe-things (don't know the name)
One 2" pipe cap
One 6" strip of 3/16"x1 1/4" steel (Might be better at 1/4"x1 1/4" for added strength)
1/2" allthread, about 10 inches or so.
2x 1/2"x13 nuts
2x 1/2" washers

The pipe-things are sized so that the flanged side of the bushing will not go through, but the rest of it will. In the pic above, there is a bushing inserted in the tool, with the unflanged end of the bushing next to the strip-thing. With the exception of the lack of an axle between the strip-end pipe-thing and the bushing, this is how the tool is properly used, too.

To take the bushings out:
1. Take the upper arm off so you can get to the bushing (if you haven't already).
2. Drill through the rubber portion of the bushing around the center "eye" using a drill bit somewhere between about 3/8 through about 1/2 until you can run the drill bit all the way around the eye.
3. Take the air chisel (or a real hammer and chisel) and knock the metal bushing eye out. With the air chisel I got one of mine to fly 12 feet, see if you can beat that! tongue.gif
4. Using the air chisel again, collapse the inner edge of the bushing (the unflanged side) somewhat while driving the bushing towards the rear (flanged side). I wish I'd taken pics while I was doing this part. The bushing shell doesn't fly as far as the eye did. Note that if you're installing poly bushings, you may not need to do this step. I'm not so sure how well this would work without an air-chisel though.
5. Assemble the bushing-installer-tool shown above. You'll put the bushing in the axle, then insert the top half of the assembly (pipe-thing, rod, and cap) through the bushing, then put the other pipe thing, plate, and washer/nut on the other end. The way I had originally heard of this tool being used was to put a wrench on each end and just tighten, tighten, tighten, so the wrenching pulls it into the housing, but to be honest, after wrenching for ~10 minutes I grabbed a big hammer and just used the rod and bolts as a retainer so I could beat on the cap end to beat it through. It only took a few whacks to get it seated (Note: it does NOT go all the way in flush, look at how far your bushings stick out now - there's a ledge to prevent it going too far in, but you can beat on it for hours trying to get it further than it should be). Again, if you're using poly, your steps are probably different.
6. That's it, you've got a bushing. Put the arm back on and worry about the other side.

Hopefully this'll help.

You can also use this type of tool to install A-Arm bushings. Change the "pipe things" to the proper sizes. Muffler shop tubing scraps also work for the "pipe things". Use grease on the threads will keep the tool from galling. Kent Moore offers a tool like this but is very pricey. The KM tool works great, kind of like it was designed for this purpose.

Hello, I'm in the process of installing the same bushings in a 67 chevelle and I was wondering if you could email me or post the picture of the tool again. The picture doesn't come up any more and I need to see how the tool is put together so I can make one. Thanks.

I use a local repair shop here in my home town that uses a nice press designed for the job. They charged me $20 to do the boxed rear lower arms for my El Camino. It took the guy 10 minutes! I will gladly play $20 to not deal with that PITA.