I'm new here so its nice to meet ya'll. I am knee deep into the restoration of my 69SS. I have it all the way down to the frame now and am getting ready to have it blasted and start going back together.
I have been doing a little bit of sniffing around on the internet about "home" paint jobs (IE people that paint in their own garage or carport) without the benefit of a spray booth. A car in chevy high performance magazine was painted in a carport and I was very impressed. That's what got me thinking about it.
Do any of you have any sucess stories, tips, or advice on doing this. I'd also like input on any good reference books you have found on this subject. Looking forward to getting to know all of ya'll on here over the course of this project!

Josh:beers:

Its very easy to do your own paint work at your house.:thumbsup:

Clean and hose out the area and your good to go.:hurray:

www.howardsbackyardautobody.com :beers:

I've only painted two cars, and both were done at home.

My first paint job (on a '90 Bonneville daily driver) was done out in the wide open driveway. I taped/papered the car in the garage in the evening, then rolled it outside the next morning as soon as it was light enough to see well. Wiped it down and started spraying. I was done before the sun came up over the garage. No wind, no bugs that early in the morning. The only problem with that paint job was from 'operator error'. Turned out decent for a first paint job. That was actually my second attempt on that car. The first time around I waited too late in the morning to start and the sun heated the panels on one side and the paint dried before it flowed out. Looked pretty bad.

My second, on my '81 Malibu wagon, was done under a dirt/gravel floor car port. I hung plastic to keep the wind, dust & bugs out, and sprayed water on the floor to keep the dust down. That one turned out pretty good. Only one small sag on the tailgate. Even the metallic layed out without splotching.

They were not perfect, but they looked fine for daily drivers. I was really happy with how the 'Bu turned out.

Dave

Had some awsome results also but got busted by my neighbor last year. Went round and round with the county and now they're watching me closely. May have to paint at night next time but this all makes it more interesting. :cool:

My 67 was painted outside the garage. We had everything taped and ready to go. Waited until around 10:00am and pushed it out.
Calm day and partly cloudy. An experienced sprayer friend of mine sprayed it. No runs. Looks beautiful.
We put plenty of clear and I wet sanded for 55 hours (in the garage). Both of us then ran a high speed buffer until completed.
My friend has painted many cars outside and they always look good.
Best of luck to you.

Did my Chevelle last year, in the carport. Covered sides with plastic and used a 48 inch fan for exhaust. Still had lots of dirt, but it all sanded out. Single stage urethane. It was much nicer when I used to have a garage with a walled off section to paint in, but you can do it wherever you have to!

was a pro painter for years and had many show winners come out of so called make shift booths not one was a down draft.now in middle of comp. resto 699 ss and plan on plastic on the walls in my two car at the house. after buffing will prob look better than anything out there ... so yes go for ittt prep is everything

Just don't get caught...Hefty fines...

paint at night ...and fight the bugs

I am doing an "at home" job right now. So far, I am experiencing great results. Here is a picture link.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/91929424lqwdES?start=24

How's this?

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh15/jajacono/IMG_1205-1.jpg

looks good

Thanks for all the input guys! Ya'll have definitely solidified my decision to do this. I have definite plans to hang plastic in the garage and use some fans and some AC filters. I am using a pretty simple husky stand up compressor. I am going to add an in-line filter and moisture control and go for it.
Any thoughts on paint guns? HVLP or siphon??
Thanks again for all the advice!:thumbsup:

Painted the truck in my garage. One piece of advice if you do besides all of the excellent advise given already is use plenty of lights and put some on the floor as well, it's pretty tough to see down there with all of the overspray if you are not lit well enough.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/mytruck123/IMG_0302.jpg

I've had good results painting in the driveway. The secret is to get everything ready the day before and roll it out first thing in the morning for paint. At that time, the air is clean, there is no wind and most of the bugs are still sleeping. It also helps to hose the driveway down first to eliminate any dust that may kick up when you spray. Here's (http://imageevent.com/tomgriffin/gregscar;jsessionid=hg3vjv46i1.buffalo_s) a link to some pics of my son's car I painted this past summer. I had to shoot an extra coat of base on the hood due to one Kamikazee bug, but other than that it turned out fine.

Tom

Another home painted car. :thumbsup:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=81&pictureid=1418

Here's mine painted in my mini-barn/1 car gar. The biggest lessons I learned were to watch the temperature and set the gun for spec'd INLET pressure with the trigger pulled. I had best results with clear with the temp at the lower end of the reducer range. If the temp is at the upper end or higher, the clear won't flow out well and severe orange peel will result. Keep the vent of your paint gun clear. Controlling dust/dirt and bugs is obvious.
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/DSCN1388.JPG

All the above info is important, but the one thing mentioned that really helps is good lighting. Having good exhaust helps a lot with being able to see. Being able to really see how think the paint is going on and how it is flowing makes it much easier. Exspecially nice to be able to clearly see the rockers and lower fenders. If you have a vinyl top, raise the car up a little. I use a makeshift box when painting the top, so I can reach the middle easier and spray it consistently. Buy top quality paint and follow directions on amounts and temps of reducers. Keep it simple with a color that isn't very demanding. Not sure silver or a few other colors are nearly as easy as red, black, white, etc.

Cool thread!! :yes:

Keep the "home painted" pictures coming!!! :thumbsup:

Here's mine...

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/Chevelle16.JPG

Painted in carport, no plastic just open to the world (side walls were "closed")...

I had a shop cut out some rust (front cowl/windshield), and then my brother and I did body and paint for about 4 days...

There were two runs, and it was 1-stage, metallic, so I had to respray those two panels several days later (I sprayed the jambs/dash, etc while my brother had srayed the exterior, but I resprayed the two panels)...

My brother is a house painter, and had painted 8-10 cars prior to this (second "metallic" job- first was on the same car a few years prior)...

I then sprayed 3 coats of urethane clear, wet sanded and buffed (an amatuer, and I only spent about 25-30 hours on the sand/buff)... I burned through a few spots...

I wouldn't win any trophies, but very presentable at the local cruise nights, etc... Many people, even "car guys" thought it looked great... Naturally, "body men" and those really into the details could easilypick out the flaws... I sold the car about 13 years after the paint job, and it still looked pretty sharp...

Painted in my garage in 1988. Still looks really good. It was laquer with no clear so bugs & dirt sanded & buffed out. Has a bit of a patina but in no way needs a repaint.

If you are using a non metallic, it's a lot easier but I have done both.

I used a fan in the window & wet down all the floors & walls for dust. The lighting is critical!!!!

I would like to add that I have seen several restorations and restorers featured in Hemmings Muscle Machines ,one of them being the premier pontiac/gto restorer around who paint their cars in the shop with nothing more than a plastic wall and a wet floor(sometimes). I would add,be real familiar with your equipment before you actualy spray your car. If you can get an old hood or fender to practice on it will be real helpful.

Heres a few I've done. Been doing it this way for 20+ yrs

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu28/red2rider/007.jpg
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu28/red2rider/004.jpg
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu28/red2rider/Picture014.jpg
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu28/red2rider/franks723.jpg

Been there, done that, at least a half dozen times. The last was my old truck that I painted in 1992 or so. My prep consisted of asking my neighbor to put his BMW in the garage to avoid overspray.

Turned out great. No runs, very few bugs, and such. In the driveway in SC. It was single stage enamel on a $500 pickup. I did wipe one door and shoot it again.

However, 4 years ago, I paid a shop to spray my other toy, and vastly prefer that.

I don't plan on any more serious at home paints. The effort to keep the bugs and dirt out are too much, compared to the cost of materials, etc. I am not real enthused about having to do body work and paint myself, although I seem to do ok at it.

Add that to the cost of materials, the increasing respirator requirements, etc, and its easier to go elsewhere, and I would recommend someone try it out on a car they can tolerate a less than perfect result with the first time.

This just gets better and more encouraging all the time.
THORSS70...your truck is the EXACT color I want to shoot the Chevelle. Can you give me some details on that.
I am definitely going to do the body work and the priming and blocking here at home. I may eventually get it down to my uncle's body shop and shoot it in his booth. I live in a residential neighborhood and the little one car garage is right under my bedroom so I am a little worried about the fumes in the house and the overspray ending up on the neighbors house or grass.

As for practice, I'm in luck, I can practice on this thing till I get it right:

http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss77/sea2seajt/SL734284.jpg

THORSS70...your truck is the EXACT color I want to shoot the Chevelle. Can you give me some details on that.


Sure, its a VW color on the Passat model called 'fresco green pearl' Look in the books at your local supplier for a Passat, year around a 2001 or so.

I sprayed it with Dupont Chromabase BC/CC a few years ago.

I used a single stage solid white on this and am pleased with the final. Not perfect, but this project was going to be an "I did it all" from the start and paint was part of that for me.

For a gun, I use a BINKS MG-1 HVLP. Low CFM requirement. Consumes 18PSI inlet pressure. Lots of info in here. Garage has a 36" entrance door. I cut a piece of 1/2"' R-MAX insulation board to fit in the jambs, Cut out the center for two 20x25 furnace filters for filtered inlet air, then placed a box fan in the window on the opposite side to create a cross flow booth. You want the airflow just moving to get an air exchange, not a breeze. Work clean and take your time. Not much more to it.

THORSS70....I had no idea that was green. I was looking for a metallic gray very similar to your truck.

Others: from what I can tell, the fan would be for exhaust, the inlet air needs to be filtered, and there doesn't need to be any actual air blowing inside the paint area right? I am going to rig a makeshift booth to do this in and want to get it right.

Do I need to go to such great lengths to prime it?? That is my main concern. for the primer I should be able to shoot it without doing any elaborate set-up right? primer is not near as picky as paint is right? I am going to lay down dark then 2k?? so i can block the whole car. Are "average" paint guns and compressors ok for priming??

I did this in my 2 bay attached garage. Sent the family away the day I painted it. Came out better than I ever dreamed. You know what they say "no guts no glory". Filters in the side door. Industrial high cfm exhaust fan in the window. Blow off and clean the area well. KEEP the floor wet. Even though it's a garage job, I would get yourself a disposable paint suit. Lot's of the dirt that gets in there will come from you and your clothes.
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/My_1965_Chevelle_Malibu_SS_0012.jpg

Ditto on the tyvek jump suit. Nice to put it on, then leave all the paint/dust in the garage.

Restored my sons' 66 Nova - garage painted...

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3053/2361/7631180057_medium.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3053/2361/7631180058_medium.jpg

My 1974 Camaro Z28 with a ZZ502 556 HP. Painted in the attatched garage at my buddys house. Yes, we had a few bugs in it, they sanded right out. It turned out great :thumbsup:

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/DSC09452.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/74z1.jpg

nice website Tom, i really like it. sorry to hear about your In-Laws.

Did a couple of garage jobs years ago and they worked great. All the suggestions are great, but one I did not see, if you have a water heater in the garage I would shut that down.
Good luck!

Seems we all have gotten good results with the same common problems - namely a bug or tow, spec of dust and the ever popular paint run. Good thing, all these are easily resolved with wet sanding after paint application.

both of our cars was painted in the garage http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj278/monte70car/cars1a.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj278/monte70car/nomad/topbeforeandafter002.jpg

I've asked this a couple of times but it keeps getting buried I think.....

I really want to know if I would be OK priming it without much elaborate set-up. I'm guessing primer is a lot more forgiving and I am going to be blocking it and all that anyway.

Do I need to set up plastic and walls and filters and all if I prime it or can I just shoot it in the driveway?

Assuming you don't care what gets overspray on it, you don't need any special setup for priming. A small amount of dirt/dust in the primer will not normally cause a problem as you will be sanding it anyways. Once you get to non sanding sealer or the base/single stage you want to take precautions to keep as much dirt/dust out as you can. If you are doing a lot of priming, having some ventilation is helpful for getting the overspray out so you can see better.

I am currently getting a single garage bay set up to paint my car in the near future (I have painted several cars, but none for about 10 years) I installed a shutter in the wall and then hooked up a fan from an old oil furnace for ventilation. I built a box around it and put 3 large furnace filters on it to collect the overspray before it goes through the fan. I just sprayed about a cup of paint to make sure the color was a good match to what I had on the car and I was amazed at how quickly the filters turned red. Without them, I would probably have red siding near the fan outlet.

To get air into the booth I removed one of the door panels (10' wide door with four 21" tall panels) with a panel made up of plywood, 2x4s and four 16x25 furnace filters. It tooks some time to build, but it seems like it works VERY well. The door operates like normal with the filter panel installed and it seals up well. I can easily swap the door panels in less than 15 minutes.

Very impressive work done at home. Now the question I have, I live in N.Y. this state prohibits everything. I am doing a frame off on my '70.
Are there restrictions, laws, or whatever to get me a fine for doing my hobby? Are there DEC, EPA, or DOH restrictions to doing this work as a hobby at home? Just want to know what to look out for.

Roland in NY

If you try to filter the exhaust like you have noted, you will lose the ventilation real quick. You pretty much need nothing to filter the exhaust, unless you have something prefessional.

I was wondering how quickly the ventilation would drop off.

So far I have only sprayed a small amount of base and although it quickly colored the filters it did not seem to significantly restrict flow. Might be a different situation when I start doing an overall paint job.

I currently have 3 filters on the exhaust side and have room on the box/duct to add 2 more. I will probably do that and will also have extra filters on hand so I can change them out if they get too restrictive.

I also have some actual paint booth exhaust filters, but they are just "elements with no framework" so I used the furnace filters as that made it a lot simpler to install. I may need to built some frames for the PB exhaust filters as the material seems like it would take much longer to clog.

Very impressive work done at home. Now the question I have, I live in N.Y. this state prohibits everything. I am doing a frame off on my '70.
Are there restrictions, laws, or whatever to get me a fine for doing my hobby? Are there DEC, EPA, or DOH restrictions to doing this work as a hobby at home? Just want to know what to look out for.

Roland in NY




Even though it is for hobby they will probably give you hell if you are caught. I have done many garage paint jobs and would do it on an aftenoon when everyone is at work and I wouldn't advertise to many of your neighbors what you are doing. The less that know the better.

I did this in my garage,but in sections. That kept the bugs and spray in the air to a miminum. I actually had 0 bugs in it afterall. Car turned out excellent.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n144/TerryAT/000_3987.jpg

Forget to mention, I also filter my exhaust. I just use the cheap fiberglass furnace filters and change them several times over the course. Mine is set up to use two filters at a time.

One more shot.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n144/TerryAT/000_3993.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f26/ccarney69/65%20Impala/Disassembly/prerestofrontdriversview.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f26/ccarney69/65%20Impala%20Complete%202009/IMG_0193.jpg

We have a lot of nice, homebuilt and painted cars on this site. I think so much more of a homebuilt car then one that has been trailered from shop to shop.
The green Nova is very nice. I would have been afraid to paint it in sections. I would have been scared of color match. One reason I did black, was to be sure it would all match when I put it together!!

My 56 was painted by my brother just before I got back from Viet nam. He was a Painter at a Europian dealer ship (Jaguars, Rolls Royce etc.) at the time. It was done right in my parents driveway in the open air with Red/orange Laquer. Any bug/dust inperfections were sanded out and the car looked like a show winner with the deepest shine




http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4733/56chevybelair2lc.jpg (http://img41.imageshack.us/my.php?image=56chevybelair2lc.jpg)

What type of paint is everyone using?

heres my home painted, did it with my dad in 2004.

looked ok then but it has since gotten pretty bad.

Our biggest problem when painting was we didnt pay attention to our reducer. The paint shop guy sold us cold weather reducer (it WAS December) without saying anything. When we painted it, it was about 60degrees. As a result, the paint dried too fast, ruining the gloss, and causing some bad orange peel. Somebody already mentioned about picking the right reducer, and he gave really good advice there. really follow that one.


We'll be repainting it either lemans blue or arrival blue metallic in the coming weeks, i'll post pics on here if this thread is still alive

EDIT: thats a DuPont enamel. 1979 cadallic slate firemist

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/dude9800/carpbready.jpg

Those are some nice paint jobs. This thread gives me hope my home paint job can be successful.

It's been mentioned a few times, wet sanding and buffing makes the final product. I've painted 10+ cars in my garage in the last 2 years... many of them I wasn't proud of until this last step was complete. Even the best shops rely on this to make those fancy trailer queen show cars look like they do. (My Dad owned a restoration shop which I worked in for the first 19 years of my life so I've been a part of more trailer queens then I care to admit to)

With that said - to make it go fast and take out ALL orange peal, I actually use a DA with 1200 dry, then 1500 dry, and then 2000 hand sanded wet. From there I use 3M Perfect Cut II and the outcome is typically very nice. To use this method I recommend an extra coat of clear and a soft touch on the DA. Stay away from body line edges, etc with the DA.

Another recommendation I would have for people just getting started is use non-metallic paints. Anything with metal flake in it steps up the difficulty you have in almost all steps of the process. If you have a run in the base coat you can't just sand it out... (you must repaint a much larger area) if you burn through in the buffing process, etc etc etc...

My final piece of advice is be okay with failure. No one starts out an expert (not that many men will admit that) Give yourself the grace to try and fail enough times to learn how to do it right. I am my worst critic and for years I paid someone else to paint the cars I was restoring because I didn't want it to turn out bad. Turns out the final product wasn't much different, its just that you will always know where each flaw is in each paint job you do. All who have sanded out that bug that landed in the 1st layer of base coat know what I'm talking about. When you look at someone else's work your eyes aren't drawn to those invetable spots because you don't know they once were there.

Good Luck!

heres my home painted, did it with my dad in 2004.

looked ok then but it has since gotten pretty bad.

Our biggest problem when painting was we didnt pay attention to our reducer. The paint shop guy sold us cold weather reducer (it WAS December) without saying anything. When we painted it, it was about 60degrees. As a result, the paint dried too fast, ruining the gloss, and causing some bad orange peel. Somebody already mentioned about picking the right reducer, and he gave really good advice there. really follow that one.


We'll be repainting it either lemans blue or arrival blue metallic in the coming weeks, i'll post pics on here if this thread is still alive

EDIT: thats a DuPont enamel. 1979 cadallic slate firemist



Before you repaint this you might try the methods I just posted. I've had the fortune (read frustration) of this same problem when I first started... taking a DA with 1200 on it working carefully will deal with the orange peal. Work your way up to 2000 and use a GOOD buffing compound it will shine like crazy! Shine is really created by a flat surface - orange peal and the reducer problem creates texture on both a large and small scale which thus reduces the reflectiveness of the paint. I hope that makes sense.

for those worried about the laws, do your homework first. i live in "the real oc" in southern california and we have some of the toughest restrictions in the US. before i painted my frame i looked into every law possible that could apply to me. what i found was that there were restricions on setting up a restoration shop at your home and painting, but there was nothing against me doing my own car. off the top of my head the law stated that i couldnt work on a project that took LESS than 6 months to complete, i couldnt spray more than X gallons of product a day and i couldnt spray more than X cars a year. again all of the laws were meant to keep restoration shops out of neighborhoods.

with all of that said, i will be going against the law when i start painting the chevelle again. currently, the socal AQMD has restricted the use of all solvent based base coats in my area. i can still shoot primer and clears, but the base must be water based. since i can drive an hour and still get the good stuff, thats what i will do.

Tim

You didn't get much of an answer to your question about a gun. First and formost...don't use a cheap gun!! Spend at least $250 or borrow a good one. You need to understand that a "true" HVLP system includes a large hose and special low pressure compressor and the system is not cheap. However, the best alternative is a "compliant" gun...this means it meets federal regulations for minimizing overspray. These are kind of a cross between HVLP and conventional. I use a Devilbiss "compliant" that costs around $275 and I love it...but there are others as well. This uses about 30 PSI and flows nicely. Also get a gravity type gun (paint container on top). I like to use the plastic bag inserts that you can get for most guns...clean up is much easier (pull it out and throw it away) plus you can literally turn the gun upside down and spray (like into wheel wells) with no loss of pattern if you have the bag in place. Your paint supplier can tell you more about this sytem. Brand wise, most are fine but follow their instructions for mixing and stick with their products throughout. I like BASF Diamont (fairly reasonably priced) but Dupont and many others are just as good. Like most of the guys who posted said....the secret is in the buffing more than in the painting. I like the dry system using a DA sander, 1000 grit, then 1200, then 1500. You can even go up to 2000 if you like. I don't use any water. Invest in a Porter Cable DA polisher ($110 to $150 depending upon who you buy it from). Use the DA for the paper then switch to foam pads and go from rubbing compound to finishing glaze and you'll be amazed at the results. Careful on sharp edges so you don't burn through. Have fun!!!

im also looking into doing the bodywork on my 69 at home. I dont have a compressor yet but plan on buying one this week. What size/hp/cfm is suitable for sanding, painting, and of course running the other rachets and what not? Thanks a bunch guys. Any brands to stay away from would also be a big help as well.

Getting ready to try my hand at it... Can't be any worse than the way it started...
(see my signature for day 1...)

1984 buick grand nationalhttp://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/mybuick/andygn001.jpg

Had some awsome results also but got busted by my neighbor last year. Went round and round with the county and now they're watching me closely. May have to paint at night next time but this all makes it more interesting. :cool:

Except for the bugs that are attracted to the lights!:mad:

Is that FRost Green? My 69 300 D post is that color! I like it!

Lot of nice home paint jobs! Here's mine it's a good 25 footer.:D

Here's my '71 Heavy Chevy I just finished this last weekend . I lucked out and it was raining during the clear application , so no bugs for once ! LOL ! I still have to wet sand and polish the clear , but my arms are sore from sanding all the primer coats and color coat before clear .

The van really po'ed my neighbor to the point she called the county, they make me bring the entire shop up to code which cost me nearly $250 in permits. The blessing was I found out I was within the rules, painting my personal rigs. Now I don't have to hide.:thumbsup: The 73 C20 is in progress and coming out better than I planned. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Jerry

A trick I learned years ago was to clean the concrete floor by blowing out the dust,wet the floor,put black roofing 15# felt down on the paint area floor and overlap the edges about 2" and use 2" masking tape to seal the edges.Water soaks in the concrete sometimes too fast without the felt.The felt will hold the water underneath longer and the top of the felt will give you a CLEAN floor surface.Then put the car in place and get busy!http://i392.photobucket.com/albums/pp10/bbmusclecars427/NOSAY0032.jpg?t=1253062762

One thing that I didn't see anyone mention was a quality painting air filter. Not just the screw on type the goes on the gun, but one that has a canister. My dad made the mistake of painting his '69 with just an orange "gun" filter. Now I have thousands of little bubbles comming up from undernethe the paint. I have seen some at harbor freight for $30, and some at paint suppliers for $500. The paint job may come out nice and look awsome, but if you have to repaint the thing every 3 years, it might be cost effective to buy the good filter and paint her once!

We wet sand with 1200, 1500 and 2000. Then we go to a d/a with 3000 grit but using a soft interface pad between the d/a and the 3000. You still have to be careful around any edges but this works out well for us.

One thing that I didn't see anyone mention was a quality painting air filter. Not just the screw on type the goes on the gun, but one that has a canister. My dad made the mistake of painting his '69 with just an orange "gun" filter. Now I have thousands of little bubbles comming up from undernethe the paint. I have seen some at harbor freight for $30, and some at paint suppliers for $500. The paint job may come out nice and look awsome, but if you have to repaint the thing every 3 years, it might be cost effective to buy the good filter and paint her once!

Good point. I have 1/2" lines run through my garage, and have a paint only drop with a Motorguard filter and water filter, plus using a disposable filter at the gun.

This is for paint only, as I have another setup for general use:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/phishfud2/garage/paintpiping.jpg

I also painted my car at home, using all PPG Omni stuff. This car was my first, and was really practice for my Chevelle, which gets done next.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/phishfud2/78%20TA/0234.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/phishfud2/78%20TA/0245.jpg

Just some of the items I have painted in the garage. The 32 was done in a single car garage with a wood stove for heat in the middle of winter. BTW it really pisses the wife off when you make all her shoes sparkely from pearl and overspray. Doh
http://photos.wakeboarder.com/data/500/medium/28_fordspecial_4376.JPG
http://photos.wakeboarder.com/data/500/medium/28_fordspecial_43761.JPG
http://photos.wakeboarder.com/data/500/medium/28549170eONpzNmJOv_ph.jpg
http://photos.wakeboarder.com/data/500/medium/Picture_636.jpg

You guys deserve a bump to the top. Cars look great :thumbsup:

Here's my 68 that was painted in my garage ,base one day ,clear the next morning before any bugs were out . Painted with dupont Nason

ttt

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b141/rudylover66/DSC_0347.jpg

The trick is Block, Block and Block again.