The steering linkage. This stinks, everyone I spoke to including the guys at summit told me it would fit without any issues.

So here's my question for all you rocket scientists out there...and I've been a member of the site long enough to know there are many of you guys out there!

The header is resting right up on the linkage...can I grind the linkage down just a little bit enough to give some clearance?

Also, and probably the more responsible way to go, is there a linkage I can buy that might redirect it, maybe an aluminum set up or something?

thanks guys!

Oscar
You are headed in the right direction with grinding the linkage. On my 66 wit super comps I did the same thing and dinged the tube a little where the shaft was touching.
From a lot of the threads about header clearance on this and other sites, it seems that Hedmans Headers fit our cars better than SCs. I don't have a problem after doing what I needed for fitment and I am happy with them. If I had to buy another set, I will look at other brands such as Hedmans for a better fitment.
ps
You don't have to be a Rocket Scientist to be helpful to someone who has experienced similar issues with these old cars. Good luck and happy motoring

Thanks John! I am going to be grinding over the weekend probably. Wish me luck! Thanks again for your help!

are you referring to the steering shaft? runs between the bottom or the column and the steering box? I'd be dinging the header before doing any grinding on that.

Looking at the header and steering shaft, what's going to happen when the engine lifts up a little on the drivers side?

Did you know you can move the bottom of the column over a little?

Hi Tom, thank you for chiming in. Looking at the contact that is being made, the steering shaft and the header are side by side touching. I figure that when the engine lifts it will rub on the way up and possible ding on the way down, depending on how much pressure there is between the two parts. That's why I thought I might be able to grind down just a fraction of an inch around the shaft to get the clearance needed. I will ding the header if I have to but I'm just so bummed at the cost and the fact that I was assured that it would fit no problem...just to end up with an eyesore of a ceramic header.

I didn't know about the possibility of moving the column over, what is involved in doing that?

Thanks for your help!!!

I JUST went thru this with my 66 big block. Don't grind the steering shaft. With the headers in place, take a big bar and put it between the upper a-arm and the steering shaft. Push in towards the motor. The shaft will flex and push a nice curved dimple in the pipe. The shaft comes right back when you let off the bar. TaDa!! Fixed. :thumbsup:

Larry, that sounds like it didn't beat up your header too much...I'm going to look at the set up tonight and see if I can get that too happen. Plus if i figure out how to move the shaft over some it could set me up. Thanks fellers!

are you referring to the steering shaft? runs between the bottom or the column and the steering box? I'd be dinging the header before doing any grinding on that.

Looking at the header and steering shaft, what's going to happen when the engine lifts up a little on the drivers side?

Did you know you can move the bottom of the column over a little?

Tom
I didn't mean to grind the shaft itself but on mine one of the bolts for the rag joint was binding up so I ground that bolt a little for clearance. Where the shaft itself was hitting, I dimpled the header. It really didn't need much at all. On the frame, I dimpled the header and all is fine. Oscar, it really isn't much at all to get it to fit.

Oscar,

The bottom of the steering column is held to the floorboard/firewall by 3 bolts (4?) in a plate. The heads are under the carpet and maybe the firewall insulation. Loosen those bolts and the two up higher under the dash and pry the bottom of the column over while tightening the floorboard bolts. You can get at least 1/8", maybe 1/4" if you're lucky. Depends on where it was when they tightened it up and the factory. Once you get a look around down there inside and out you might notice that the bolt holes in the plate could be hogged out a little, get a little more.

I know one guy that loosened up all the body and core support mount bolts and pried the body over a fraction. Every little bit helps.

You could loosen the motor mount bolts and see if the engine could be pried (pryed?) over a little. Sometimes there's a clearance issue with a header tube and a passenger side header tube, might not work out so hot.

THank you very much guys. I'm going to try a little of all of this over the weekend. First I will try moving the steering over the 1/8-1/4 then I'll start dimpling if necessary. As always, thank you guys very much for your help and insight/experience!

Keep*us*updated,*I*have*the*exact*same*problem*on* my*66*Malibu..I*was*going*to*change*it*to*console* shift.

Will do lightfoot. I didn't get a chance to mess with it over the weekend and I really want to take my time with it. I think Friday will be the day.

Mark where its hitting, remove steering shaft, and dent it with a 5/8 socket wrapped in a towel and a big hammer. Very easy to do, you wont see the dent when everything is installed.