ok so i got some moroso battery relocation kit from summit to put my battery in the back of my 71 chevelle. the kit comes with 2 long leads for both the positive and negative.

some people have told me to just bolt the ground cable to the frame right under the trunk as it comes out of the battery and others tell me to run it with the juice to the front and connect it to the block itself then a groundstrap to the frame and firewall.

which do you guys recommend??? also, when i run the wires to the front, is it ok if i run them through the right frame rail alongside my steel braided fuel line? should they be put inside of rubber hose or something for extra protection??(the positive at least)

THANKS!

On mine I bolted the ground cable off the battery to the trunk floor and from the same bolt to the frame. Then up front I have a cable from the frame to the block and another from the block to the firewall. For the positive cable I ran it along with the braided fuel line and used rubber hose to isolate the cable from chaffing on the braided line.

If you go battery to frame, then frame to engine and then to the body you will definitely want the large gauge cable going from the frame to the engine. The largest draw of ground current is when starting the engine, so that's the most important for wire sizing requirements. When making these major connections it's a VERY good idea to use di-electric grease to prohibit corrosion.

I don't see a problem minimizing weight and utilizing the frame as your main ground conductor to the front, just make sure your connections are as clean as possible and everything is tight.

As for sheathing/conduit for your positive cable at least, convoluted tubing or braided nylon is a good choice. Extra protection and insulation is always a good idea when it doesn't cost too much weight(or money).

I have my ground going to the frame. I also have a ground from the engine to the frame. And a ground from the engine to the body.

While you are at it, I'd throw in a disconnect switch in the trunk too. That way, it's easy to disconnect your battery if you are working on something electrical, or if your car will be sitting for an extended period of time. Could even be a security measure. You should run the pos cable through the disconnect switch if you are going to be drag racing. I ran mine for years with the neg cable through the switch. Use heavy duty wires for everything, except the engine to body. You can use those braided ground straps that come stock or a heavier gauge wire. Also make sure you really clean up the two surfaces on the frame where you are grounding your wires.

Along the frame, just make sure that the cable is fastened in place well. I have just plain wire loom in some spots just to be on the safe side.

I'll point out that it is a good idea to locate the starter solenoid in the trunk with the battery. This keeps the hot lead from being active except when you start the engine. If you get hit in the side that the cable is run on, usually the passenger side, the cable can get shorted to the frame causing heat, a lot of heat, and a fire if it is always electrically active.

I saw a 72 go up in flames because of this. Oh yes, most of us run this cable along with the fuel line, perhaps that is why it can be so catastrophic.

Ron

i have an msd starter with a built in solenoid, so i don't have the option to put it in a remote location

i have an msd starter with a built in solenoid, so i don't have the option to put it in a remote location

Actually you do have that option. You bypass the solenoid on the starter so that the motor post on the starter gets its power from the solenoid in the trunk.

Ron

I run my cables trough the frame rail. Both going out near the engine/ starter
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