: LS1 front and rear disc
CHELKAMINO May 9th, 09, 5:17 PM Who here is running this set up?
I just got done with the upgrade and all does not seem right to me. I am using a 1" bore manual Vette style master cylinder. It uses 3/16 line to a T fitting for the fronts and a 3/16 to adjustable prop valve then to the stock 1/4 line to the T fitting on the rear to 3/16 to the calipers. I bench bled the MC and pedal pumped the brakes. The pedal is firm, but they do not seem to stop as well as I thought they were going to for 4 wheel discs? Anyone else have any issues with there LS1's brakes?
Randy 67EC May 10th, 09, 9:14 AM Have you bedded in the brakes yet? I have a similar setup except for C5 fronts and it didn't stop very well at first but now stops great. I am using Hawk HP+ pads which may make a little difference. The 1" master should work good with your LS1 front calipers which are a larger piston size than the C5's are.
CHELKAMINO May 10th, 09, 9:47 AM The only thing I am wondering is if I need to go with a power booster with the 1" MC? That is how the LS1 Camaro's came through the factory. I got the whole set up used (around 12,000 miles on them) so the pads are like new. I guess a new set of pads wouldn't hurt though?
Randy 67EC May 11th, 09, 7:12 AM I forgot to add that mine is a manual setup. Check to make sure the brake pedal rod is in the upper hole on the pedal vs the lower hole which is for power brakes. Adding a power booster would increase the stopping power, but it shouldn't be necessary for the brakes to work. You might also want to try a better pad, like the Hawks or maybe Performance Frictions Carbon metallic pads or something similar.
bochnak May 11th, 09, 7:52 AM Is this a manual set-up? If so, the MC might be too big. Maybe try a 3/4" from a 76' vette or a 15/16" from a 77' malibu?
I have yet to find a 7/8" app.
A 1" to 1 1/8" is usually used for vacuum power assist.
FYI, going from a 1" to 3/4" bore would result in a ~30% increase in line pressure assuming the same force is applied at the pedal.
Randy 67EC May 11th, 09, 12:37 PM The 1" master cylinder I have is a manual brake one from a 67-76 Corvette, Power version is 1-1/8".
The 3/4" will give you more pressure, along with increased pedal travel.
CHELKAMINO May 11th, 09, 7:11 PM All is fixed!!
I went and installed the booster with the 1" bore Vette MC and the brakes are top notch now:thumbsup:.
Just for the record............I did have the pedal rod in the right hole for manual set up.
BowtieAaron Jun 7th, 09, 1:20 AM i know this is an old thread.. but can you post some part numbers and or pics for the front disk set up.
what brackets did you use? any mods for the rotors?
thanks
aaron
ed1le Jun 19th, 09, 11:22 AM I'd be interested in learning more about this install as well...looking to do a 4 wheel disc setup as well and this could be an affordable option I think.
pool3shark Jun 19th, 09, 11:10 PM Ebay!!! Front and Rear for 500 when all said and done. even reused the 1 1/8 MC and single 9" delco booster from the old disc/drum, although the dual 9" would be nice for the lazy fat man pedal feel. The trickly parts were spacing the rear back plates, and making brackets for the front. If you want the dimensions of the brackets i made to put my fronts on i could dig my template out. Warning: looks crude but it works and clears the suspension. Corvette brake hoses worked for the front, i had to bend the hard section to clear some suspension. You'll need an ISO (bubble) flare tool for 3/16 tubing.
Side notes of my hair tearing experience. As stated above MAKE SURE THE PIN IS IN THE PROPER HOLE ON THE PEDAL ARM. If its not you'll tear your hair out... Also with a power set up the pedal does not come back all the way to the rubber stop so no worries... also also youll need to stick a screw or something into the brake light switch to make it work properly.
If you want some pictures let me know
ed1le Jun 20th, 09, 6:36 AM Yes, post pics!
pool3shark Jun 23rd, 09, 7:00 PM Ok heres the pics. Good thing you guys had me do this; I found a fried outer wheel bearing pax side.
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0821.jpg
Full Assembly
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0822.jpg
Less Caliper and Pads
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0823.jpg
Rotor Off
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0825.jpg
The Bracket and Hub
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0827.jpg
Its a disc spindle. The Drum spindle boss is too long. You could machine it down or just use the disc spindle and weld a 1/2" spacer to it as seen in this picture.
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0828.jpg
To get the spacing and alignment right i used an approx~ 1/16" washer.
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0829.jpg
The hubs are drum brake hubs from a 67-69 camaro. These were pretty common place and can found on A LOT of different vehicle even G10 vans. another thing i saw was machining off the rotor on a stock disc system. To much work and i think it would set the front track too wide, but not certain.
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0830.jpg
Bracket without Hub
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/pool3shark/100_0831.jpg
These are (LS1 era 98-02) CORVETTE brake hoses. Notice the extra bend at the hose side of the hard line. Not difficult; a vise and heat are all you need to safely bent it. You need to bend it to clear suspension components.
The way i have these mounted neither the hoses nor the hardware interfere with any of the suspension from full bounce to full extension, lock to lock.
I have my template but unfortunately i dont have my notes on the hole locations.
pool3shark Jun 23rd, 09, 7:14 PM Oh yeah... the rears just bolt on. you have to pop the cover, pull the axles, and use spacer plates between the flange and brake plates. I simply cut the bolt holes from the original drum brake plate and that was my spacer. Other then that, front and rear, set up the plumbing and your good to go.
BowtieAaron Jun 23rd, 09, 11:35 PM yo craig.. its aaron from the starbucks meet (friends of don and eric).
what brackets did you use for the front calipers? they home made?
im thinking of just going the fbody front brake route. cheaper and easier for rim choices.
after going to the track on friday, i def found the mercy point of the drum brakes.
i assume the drum spindle can be machines for the caliper bracket?
aaron
Bowtie70ss Jun 24th, 09, 6:52 AM Looks nice, that's on my short list of stuff to do.
ed1le Jun 24th, 09, 7:27 AM Craig, great info! What caliper brackets did you use?
pool3shark Jun 24th, 09, 6:11 PM everything is stock LS1 camaro other then the hoses and spindle bracket (the black homemade ugly lookin thing in the pics). Also... im running a 1 1/8" master cyl, with a single 9" delco booster. would like to go a little bigger for some added pedal assistance. Anyone have a dual 9" or something like it for sale.
Aaron, yes the drum spindles can be machined down... if i remember correctly the F bodies brakes are the exact same as the A, G, and X. The only thing that was bigger were B bodies and Vettes and even then not by much. As for wheels some 15" rims would fit. the problem isnt the diameter of the rotor and caliper assembly its the center section of the wheel. the calipers go out past the hub mounting surface. so you need about a 0 offset and a good 1/2" of spoke clearance maybe more. Im running all 16x8 Cragar Soft 8 Chrome. Im fairly confident a 15" of the same would fit, but again its not so much the diameter as it is the caliper being in the way. I could have used wheels spacers but i like my life.
BowtieAaron Jun 24th, 09, 6:51 PM thats what i was thinking.
its similar to the c5 set up. i know all about the spoke clearance issue.
aaron
pool3shark Jun 24th, 09, 8:38 PM the c5s used a bigger front rotor... 13 me thinks where as the camaro is 12"
BowtieAaron Jun 24th, 09, 11:31 PM yeh 13" rotor. i know this.
i still dont know if im going to go with C5 or fbody front brakes.
i was using the c5 as reference to the spoke to caliper clearance.
aaron
ed1le Jun 25th, 09, 9:35 AM What did you use to make the bracket? Do you have the template?
pool3shark Jun 25th, 09, 6:07 PM i just took some measurements and did some math. yes i have a template, ill get measurements sometime in the relative near future. Its just 1/4" mild steel plate, and 1/2" block cut out of plate. It'll hold a freight train.
Anyone figure out how i did the e brakes yet?
pool3shark Jun 25th, 09, 6:09 PM aaron? did the C5 rotor sit deeper then the F-body
BowtieAaron Jun 25th, 09, 9:08 PM i believe so.
i think people run about a 5/8" spacer to clear the calipers with the spokes of some wheels. but it mainly depends on the wheels you run.
aaron
pool3shark Jun 25th, 09, 10:12 PM yeah thats really the problem child of this set up is wheels that fit... ultimately anything that fits an LS1 would work, took a gamble on the Cragar; i didnt want a 17" wheel, at that size everything gets pricey wheels and rubber.
ed1le Jun 26th, 09, 12:16 PM Curious about the e-brake. Also, will a factory LS1 booster work and anyone know if the mounting points are the same for our cars?
pool3shark Jun 26th, 09, 4:22 PM i used the stock chevelle cables crimped some thimbles in and hooked them on... oh yeah did i mention that i swapped the brake plates left to right.
As for the booster... i think so. So long as there is not clearance issues as with an angled bracket or that bolt patterns to pedal assembly are the same, which i believe there will be not problems... is the LS1 booster more powerful, i think its a dual diaphragm.
ed1le Jun 26th, 09, 4:58 PM Not sure if it's more powerful or not but it does look like it's thicker and smaller in diameter...would look less bulky and they're going to pretty cheap on ebay.....
pool3shark Jun 27th, 09, 11:07 AM did some looking around and some people are recommending a 1" bore master cyl. but really it all comes down to personal preference. bigger bore means shorter throw of the pedal but more effort (or more boosting) needed.
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