I would like to replace the orginal bezel on my 64 Elky. Other then the 8 screws around the edge, is there any thing else that I must remove to get the Bezel out? :confused:
Will I have to get under the dash for any removable parts? (Bad Neck) ! Or does it all come out from the front?
Any help will be greatly appreciete.
Arnie


64 Elky L-74
68 Buick Riviera
84 Corvette
02 Solon Rollback
04 GMC 2500

It comes out the front, but there is more to it. The entire underdash harness is attached to the instrument cluster which is attached to the bezel. The wiper switch, ignition switch, light switch and lighter socket are all wired to the harness and the switches/sockets are attached to the bezel. The radio attaches to the bezel and to underdash bracing. If your car has factory AC, the upper vent attaches to the bezel.

The bezel can be removed with the switches and instrument cluster all attached but you'll have to disconnect all the wiring clips and light bulb sockets and disconnect the harness straps from the cluster and remove the radio first. The ignition switch can be a bear to disconnect if it is the kind with the lock tabs. It also helps to disconnect the steering column at the base of the dash and let it drop a bit, this provides more room to pull the bezel straight out of the hole in the dash. It can be removed without dropping the column, but it then becomes like one of those 3D puzzles to figure out where and how to turn, push and pull things to get it out around the column without damaging anything.

Another choice is to remove the small screws which attach the instrument cluster to the bezel from behind and leave it attached to the harness. Then you just need to disconnect the light switch, ignition switch, wiper switch and lighter connections and remove the radio. Leaving the instrument cluster behind also makes getting the bezel out a lot easier and likely won't require dropping the column a bit as noted above. The challenge here is getting to the 4 little screws than hold the cluster to the bezel.

I've done it both ways, I've found the "leave the cluster attached" method easier since it's really hard to get at the screws that hold the cluster to the bezel while it is all still attached to the dash. I suppose you could begin to pry the cluster out of the dash panel to gain access to these screws and then leave the cluster behind, but you'd basically need to get the bezel all the way out before this would become possible so why not just pull it as a unit?

Thanks Rich
It sounds like pulling the bezel out a little, droping the colum a little and then disconnecting the switchs and then the wires is the best route.
Should I mark the wires in such a way as to inditify them, for returning them back in the right place, or are they self explanatority?
Also, should I plan on a good day (6-8hrs) for this project?
Thanks again
Arnie


64 Elky L-74
68 Buick Riviera
84 Corvette
02Solon Rollback
04 GMC 2500

Thanks Rich
It sounds like pulling the bezel out a little, droping the column a little and then disconnecting the switch's and then the wires is the best route.
Should I mark the wires in such a way as to inditify them, for returning them back in the right place, or are they self explanatority?
Also, should I plan on a good day (6-8hrs) for this project?
Thanks again
Arnie


64 Elky L-74
68 Buick Riviera
84 Corvette
02Solon Rollback
04 GMC 2500

Most of the wiring plugs are unique to what they attach to. The only confusion can come from the bulb sockets as the illumintion bulbs and the high beam indicator bulb and the turn signal bulbs all look the same and all fit in the same holes, but the wire colors indicate where each goes (but you need to have a wiring diagram to decipher them).

It should only take about 2 hours tops to get it out. Maybe a little longer since it's your first time. If you don't care much about the old bezel it can go faster but of course you'll want to be more careful on the reinstallation of the new bezel. Honestly, dropping the column an inch or two makes the job a whole lot easier. Getting up under the dash to disconnect/reconnect the wiring is probably the hardest part. If you want to make access to all this a lot easier, pull the front seat out of the car so you can lie on the floor without having to contort over or around the seat. Be careful to not lie on the seat mount studs near the trans hump if you have bucket seats, those hurt if you roll over on them!

I'll 2nd pulling the bezel & cluster as an assembly. I've done it both ways and as Rich said it's a total PITA to separate. You will have to get under the dash regardless of method, and pulling the seat makes it waaaayyyy easier.

A few more tips:
- Before it gets to the cluster, the main harness is held in place by a couple of metal strips up above the fuse panel & E-brake assy. By bending these down & freeing the harness it'll give you a few inches of much needed "wiggle room".
- The harness is secured to the metal instrument cluster by 2 plastic "push-pins" above the speedo & fuel gauge. These'll probably break, they get brittle.... but some I've dealt with hang on like a bear!
- The instrument cluster bulb holes are stamped with the color codes of the wires/sockets that the particular bulbs plug into. You may want to make a sketch when the cluster is out as seeing the text "upside down on your head" is near impossible during installation.
- Run 1 or 2 layers of light "tack" masking tape or electrical tape around the entire metal dash opening, as tight to (even under) the lip of the plastic bezel. You're going to have to do some wiggling and this will save your paint!
- Drop the column... it's only 2) screws and 2) nuts. It just gives you that much more room. Also lay an old towel over it and tape in place for paint protection.
- Take a look here for some comments on repop dashes: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2164023&postcount=4

**I see you're from MN! Please take a look here: northstarchevelles.com (http://www.northstarchevelles.com) We're having our next meeting May 16 in Zimmerman. Consider yourself invited!**

I've got a '64 & a '65 Elky, and both have had the clusters out numerous times. I've also got a sizeable stash of cluster parts for these years. Please feel free to PM or email me if you get stuck!:thumbsup: (you too Rich ;))