Considering a new set of Aluminum heads. Lookig at Brodx RR ovals versus Edelbrock "Rovals" .

Anyone have any experience with the Edelbrock 100 CC combustion chamber heads P/N 60499? They have a 295 CC runner, 2.18 / 1.88 valves.

Wonder how they compare with the Brodix RR oval head? Also there is a note on the Summit page that lists the Edelbrock heads...something about the sparlk plug being moved .150 closer to the bore center and a suggestiong that plug clearance might be an issue in some cases. Jegs lists the same head with a suggestion that a shorter plug (.230 inch shorter if I recall right) be used in cases where clearance might be an issue.

I am running TRW 2399 pistons with an 13.5 CC dome that is .095 inch tall. This is the GM supplied piston from the later 9.0 / 1 compression "nominal" LS6.

Any comments appreciated on the Edelbrock...I have good reliable data on the Brodix but need to make a comparison based on experience.

Probably gonna have to flycut those pistons if your using anykind of cam. Compression maybe a bit high though with those pistons and 100cc heads. Brodix can mill those heads down pretty far also.

If you go with the Eddy's, buy them bare and take to the machine for a good valve jobs...Eddy's valve job - not so good. Really bad actually.

About a year ago I bought a set of the 100cc edelbrocks for my 402. I ran a solid lifter voodoo cam with .574 in and .590 ex lift. I did a simple gasket matched port job along with the rpm air gap intake and i love how the car runs. From what I've heard the Brodix are the better head, but for the money and the small 100cc chamber I found the eddys to be the right head for my car. My machine shop also checked the valves and installed seat height of the eddys and found them to be within specs.

I'd go with the Brodix RR ovals...contact Mike "wolfplace" Lewis for pricing. :yes:
A better head and less piston issues...

I'd go with the Brodix RR ovals...contact Mike "wolfplace" Lewis for pricing. :yes:
A better head and less piston issues...

X2 and after all is said and done, you won't regret it.

Bill and Chicken Man

I have been in touch with Mike "Wolfplace" Lewis already. Several times this week as a matter of fact.

This post is just "Due Dilegence" checking out what the options are. I think Brodix might be a better perf option.

Just checkin my options.

Probably gonna have to flycut those pistons if your using anykind of cam. Compression maybe a bit high though with those pistons and 100cc heads. Brodix can mill those heads down pretty far also.

If you go with the Eddy's, buy them bare and take to the machine for a good valve jobs...Eddy's valve job - not so good. Really bad actually.

Not sure about eather issue. The compression works out at somewhere around 9.75 to 10.0 with the chambers at 100 CC. As for the piston needing a shave I am up in the air about that. The pistons are a very low dome and the volume of the dome is only 13.8 CC so given the cam I am running (stock LS6) and the general lack of plans for some wild high lift cam I might be OK. After reading the post about the 402 in this thread I am more or less feeling reinforced tht the pistons are not gonna need cutting.

As for the valve job work...that is new wes never heard that before! What is the basis for your statement? I should add that I have Edelbrock heads on my SB in my Vette and they have performed very well.

About a year ago I bought a set of the 100cc edelbrocks for my 402. I ran a solid lifter voodoo cam with .574 in and .590 ex lift. I did a simple gasket matched port job along with the rpm air gap intake and i love how the car runs. From what I've heard the Brodix are the better head, but for the money and the small 100cc chamber I found the eddys to be the right head for my car. My machine shop also checked the valves and installed seat height of the eddys and found them to be within specs.

Can you add anything about the pistons you are running? P/N etc.....

Also..I am asuming stock ratio BBC rockers? Since your cam has a little more lift than I am running I am more encouraged as to the piston issue.

The duration is more of an issue than the lift.
FWIW,I have .100 tall domed pistons with 101 cc chamber 063's with 2.19/1.88 valves and there are no p/v clearance issues with a 223/231 @.050 .525/.550 112 LSA cam

The duration is more of an issue than the lift.
FWIW,I have .100 tall domed pistons with 101 cc chamber 063's with 2.19/1.88 valves and there are no p/v clearance issues with a 223/231 @.050 .525/.550 112 LSA cam

Ok all I have to do is compare your specs to the stock LS6 cam I am running!

I knew I could count on someone from the Nutmeg State! I sure wish I was back there...not for the weather but a lot of friends are still there. I grew up in Litchfield and lived in Glastonbury before getting transfered to Atlanta. Worked in Wallingford ...Barnes Park... which I belive is pretty close to your stomping grounds. Saw some pictures of your car at Lebanon Valley. I think the place has changed a lot since "back in the day" when I was there on weekends.

Not sure about eather issue. The compression works out at somewhere around 9.75 to 10.0 with the chambers at 100 CC. As for the piston needing a shave I am up in the air about that. The pistons are a very low dome and the volume of the dome is only 13.8 CC so given the cam I am running (stock LS6) and the general lack of plans for some wild high lift cam I might be OK. After reading the post about the 402 in this thread I am more or less feeling reinforced tht the pistons are not gonna need cutting.

As for the valve job work...that is new wes never heard that before! What is the basis for your statement? I should add that I have Edelbrock heads on my SB in my Vette and they have performed very well.

I had 2 set of Eddy BBC heads, along with a friend who lives down the street, and all 3 heads had p!ss-poor valve jobs. I suggest getting them bare, and let the shop do 'em. Comes out to the same price as the assembled, maybe a touch more but you know what ya got.

Compression, I come up with 10.2 with a 4.25 bore, .039 gasket, 100 chambers, 13.8 dome, pistons .020 in the hole. 10.7 zero-deck. I dont know what your exact combo is...but 10.7 might be high these days especially for iron heads.

I dont see p/v issues with the small FT's listed. Its the rollers you have to watch, even "small" ones. The Eddy heads are angle-milled from what I understand, could cause an issue - not sure. I had to cut my 2399's when I had the 110cc Eddys, with a 231/139 .600 HR cam. Had to cut them again when I stuck the angle milled AFR's on there :clonk:

Either way check.

I had 2 set of Eddy BBC heads, along with a friend who lives down the street, and all 3 heads had p!ss-poor valve jobs. I suggest getting them bare, and let the shop do 'em. Comes out to the same price as the assembled, maybe a touch more but you know what ya got.

Compression, I come up with 10.2 with a 4.25 bore, .039 gasket, 100 chambers, 13.8 dome, pistons .020 in the hole. 10.7 zero-deck. I dont know what your exact combo is...but 10.7 might be high these days especially for iron heads.

I dont see p/v issues with the small FT's listed. Its the rollers you have to watch, even "small" ones. The Eddy heads are angle-milled from what I understand, could cause an issue - not sure. I had to cut my 2399's when I had the 110cc Eddys, with a 231/139 .600 HR cam. Had to cut them again when I stuck the angle milled AFR's on there :clonk:

Either way check.

Everyone says Brodix Brodix Brodix and I have to say I am leaning that way. Information from Wolfplace says that to get the compression in the 9.5 to 9.8 range the Brodix RR oval heads need a shave. I don't recall him saying they are gonna be angle cut. Apparently the manifold side of the head MIGHT need a little cut to keep things in line also.

I think 3 sets of bad valves in the Edelbrock heads is indicative of something...no doubt about that. If three sets of valves are bad in a small sample of customers like you and your neighbor something "Is Rotten in Demnark" as they say! I have to say I am surprised to hear that, Edelbrock always has had a reputation for quality products. Hmmmmmmm?

You mention that there should be no issues with smaller FT cams. I have never gotten to deeply into this area and I am finding myself asking a lot of questions in areas I never bothered to look into.

Not being the cam expert I am assuming that the issues with Hydraulic rollers (any roller I would assume) is the fact that the roller profiles open and close the valve much faster (sooner?) than a FT cam. Is this the "more area under the curve" discussion? Since the roller can accomodate the more radical lobe shape you can end up with the valve being in a position such that the piston gets "tapped on the head" so to speak.

On the other hand with the relatively small FT cam the lifter cam lobe interface necessitates that the valve follow a less aggressive path and therefore the piston is outta the way before the valve can hit it.

Lastly is there a typo on your post above? "239 /139 600 lift HR"

I'm running the stock 72' factory pistons in my 402. I forgot what dome they had but it was fairly small. Somewhere close to what you are using. My compression with the 100cc heads came to about 9.7 to 1 . Being the small bore of the 402 I did however have to clearence the top edge of the cylinder bore to accomadate the valves. It was just a small semi-circle shape about an 1/8 in deep. I had my piston to valve clearance checked and I had over .125" clearance on both the intake and exhaust. My cam had 238 in and 241 ex duration at .50 I hope this info helps. I just hate to see people knock a product that I have had good success with, especcially for the $$

I'm running the stock 72' factory pistons in my 402. I forgot what dome they had but it was fairly small. Somewhere close to what you are using. My compression with the 100cc heads came to about 9.7 to 1 . Being the small bore of the 402 I did however have to clearence the top edge of the cylinder bore to accomadate the valves. It was just a small semi-circle shape about an 1/8 in deep. I had my piston to valve clearance checked and I had over .125" clearance on both the intake and exhaust. My cam had 238 in and 241 ex duration at .50 I hope this info helps. I just hate to see people knock a product that I have had good success with, especcially for the $$

We think alike....I cannot discount what I am reading but I always thought Edelbrock made great stuff. That does not say that bad things can't happen...bad things do happen and things do change. Nothing remains the way it always was. Same goes for Brodix...they have been around since dirt and you cannot survive in this business unless you are doing it right EVERY TIME!!!

I know what you mean about people knocking things that you have had good luck with. I have a Richmond 5 Speed in each of my two cars. I hear all this stuff about hard shifting and on and on and I just can't buy it. I had a 67 GTO with a Muncie and it was indeed the smoothest shifting thing I ever operated until the rail shifted transmissions came along. In honesty I cannot say that my Richmond ( the one in my A-Body ) shifts any worse than that old Muncie did. I run synth fluid in it and I has a stock length shifter. I works for me and I can't fault it. The one in my Vette has dyno "grease" and a short shifter. It does shift a little stiff I have to agree with the statement that they shift hard IF I am talking about my Vette. . Sounds like the Edelbrock heads are the same for you...they got the job done and ya cannot ask for more.

Thanks for you help on this...it is tough to make a comparison between the Edelbrock and the Brodix jst off a piece of paper. The real way to get info is to talk to folks who have been there and done that.

I am using the eddy 100cc heads on an .030 over 402 (408). I bought them bare and had a five angle valve job as well as some cleaning up of the ports etc. I can't recall what size the domes are but they are fairly small. I am running a Comp AR288. Specs are .625" lift, 246@.050, and 288 adv. dur. I didn't have to do any flycutting of thie pistons or anything like that. While I don't remember the exact P/V numbers, I did check it and there was plenty of clearance. I chose these heads because I need the small combustion chambers to have some decent compression. I am at a little over 10.0 to 1 if I recall correctly.

A friend of mine bought a set of Eddy BBC heads complete last summer and had his shop check them out and there were no problems. One of the other machine shops near central Ohio has said there QA is a little laxed, but not as bad as most make it out to be. The bottom line is that if you are spending that much money, another 110.00 (which was the difference from bare to complete when I looked into it) is good insurance.

As far as your p/v clearance goes, IF you are going to run into problems it wont be anywhere near max lift. I had clearance issues about 9 degrees ATDC on the intake valve. As Vince said, even the "little" rollers get you.

The best advice I can give you with P/V clearance is don't listen to anyone tell you "you will have no problem". Measure it yourself (or your machine shop) so that you KNOW what it is.

Why would you pay another 100.00 to have them checked out when a valve job is like 200-300?

I like the Eddy heads, shoulda kept the ones I had rather than drop the money on new AFR's. Just a good competition valve job and they would of done more than enough for me.

A The bottom line is that if you are spending that much money, another 110.00 (which was the difference from bare to complete when I looked into it) is good insurance.

As far as your p/v clearance goes, IF you are going to run into problems it wont be anywhere near max lift. I had clearance issues about 9 degrees ATDC on the intake valve. As Vince said, even the "little" rollers get you.

The best advice I can give you with P/V clearance is don't listen to anyone tell you "you will have no problem". Measure it yourself (or your machine shop) so that you KNOW what it is.

I STRONGLY disagree with the "another $110...is good insurance" NO WAY am I gonna spend another $110 to assure myself that someone eles who just charged me about $2000 for a set of heads did their job right!!!

This is an example of what is wrong in our consumer culture. We EXPECT things to be less than what they are billed to be. We have become too willing to spend MORE to get it done right or to prove it WAS done right. If I have enough doubts about a product to be in position where I am gonna spend MORE money to check out the first guys work then I am gonna shop elsewhere right from the get go.

I bought a GM crate motor and I took it apart right out of the crate. It is a good thing I did because there was a connecting rod cap installed BACKWARDS! Yup BACKWARDS. You have to POUND a rod cap on to get it on backeards. I took that motor apart because I was curious not because I expected trouble. I never bough a GM crate engine again after that experience. I certainly would not buy one with the intention of taking it apart for "insurance" purposes.

I am a big fan of Edelbrock products and I have to say I am surprised about this report of 3 sets of bad heads. I say this especially in the light of what I know Edelbrock has as far as the equipment in their factory. I just don't understand the comment. It might be that the complaint(s) are centered around the valve work not being the latest "Gee Whizz super whizz bang racer ready" technology but I don't think that necessarily is what Edelbrock is advertising the heads as being. It might indeed be that the valve work is not good but since we have no explanation of the specific criticism beyond "Piss Poor" I don't know what I can say.

Edelbrock has a quality reputation, they have been around since forever and if Vic Edelbrock Jr. is what he appears to be I have to wonder about the assertions about lax QA. I met Vic Jr. at a vintage Trans Am race at Lime Rock Park in Ct. I walked up and introduced myself while he was working on a vintage Trans Am car. I mentioned that I had a set of his SBC heads on my Vette. He was personable and even took some time to generally shoot the breeze about his car. That does not mean his products are all perfect, it does mean that he seems to be what he says he is...a businessman in the aftermarket perf. industry who cares about his products and his customers.

Perhaps there ARE issues with quality I have to respect what a person who has experienced a problem says but I also have to say that I have not heard about quality issues before the comments listed here.

"As far as your P/V clearance..........." I agree here very strongly. The issue is not as likely to be max lift. As I understand P/V clearance can be an issue of when the valve is just off the seat and the piston is where it should not be given the valve position. Perhaps that should be started as the valve is not where it should be given the position of the piston. Roller profiles (if I am correct here) allow for the a fair amount of lift very early in the rotation of the crank and things can go bump in the engine.

I inadvertently simulated just this kind of thing once with a BBC I built. I used one of those cam gear and chain sets that allows for advancing and retarding the cam. I goofed on set the cam up wrong. Can't recall if I had it advanced or retarded but the results were DISASTEROUS. Talk about a sickening sound!!!!!! I sure don't wnat to hear it again with this motor.

The high compression 100 cc head "can be made" into a good head but you will be buying them twice to do it. I am running a pair on my car, they work very well, but they were purchased bare and we went from there. They flow 349 in the Intake and 280 on the exhaust at .650 lift. As far as the race rights go, I'm pretty sure they are weak as hell on the exhaust side. It is hard to buy a part after the fact and add it to one's combo. This is where prior planning come's into play. I think I'd be a little patient and see what afr come's up with in the near future as Tony stated they were a month or so from taking orders. I'm sure they will be the most talked about piece out there.