Help on 1970 chevelle disc brakes,spindles,springs [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Help on 1970 chevelle disc brakes,spindles,springs


tlw1970
Apr 21st, 09, 1:45 PM
Hello,
I have been doing much reading and now very confused. I have a 1970 chevelle that I an restoring back to org with some modern updates. One of the updates would be suspension. I will be driving this car and also taking it out to drag race on occasions. I want the car to handle on the road w/o bouncing up/down and bobbing from side to side. also, I want better braking. During my restotation I capped C channel frame between the tires to strenghen it. I now use a convert crossmember (48") to tie it all together. Below is a list of some of the items I am leaning twords. Please comment if you have any better ideas. I want the car to work when I am done.
1) 502 BB aluminum heads
2) 700r4 tranny or Tremec 5 speed?
3) Origional SS wheels (15 x7)
4) 4 wheel 11 disc brakes. (currenty looking at RightStuff)
5) Polygraghite front bushings with stock control arms.
6) Steering box from a 1977-81 Z28 or Trans Am.
7) Hotchkis front/rear springs 1" drop (Front adjustable???)
8) Hotchkis front/rear sway bar.
9) Hotchkis rear control arms. (adjustable???)
10) Drop spindles??? (why) Am I really going to notice a difference?
11) Factory body mounts. Teh suspension will be stiff enough so I wanted to make sure the ride is not like a lumber wagon.

Thanks

70ChevelleRagtop
Apr 21st, 09, 2:57 PM
Just a FYI, "original SS wheels" are 14". There are repops that are 15" but originals were only 14's.

I can't respond to most of your suggested improvements but I will tell you that I went through the entire suspension of my 70 convertible about 7 years ago and replaced every nut and bolt, installed new stock bushings, fast ratio steering box, 1 1/8 front swaybar and rear sway bar, new springs, etc.... and to be honest, I think the car handles VERY well (it has Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires on it). If your car currently has 40 year old worn out parts, you might be surprised how well the stock suspension actually works if it is fresh and tight. Granted, it doesn't compare to the new cars of today but you just might be surprised that these cars aren't as bad as you might think...

But, then again, I'm not looking to have a G-machine.

That's my 2 copper coins on the subject...

airrj
Apr 21st, 09, 9:21 PM
Hello,
6) Steering box from a 1977-81 Z28 or Trans Am.

Search here for Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box conversion. It is the way to go.

tlw1970
Apr 22nd, 09, 9:38 AM
Yes, I know the wheels came only in 14". I am looking at larger brakes and want to Know if a larger brake will work with org style 15" wheels. I agree with you on everything else. I am ready to put it back to stock and enjoy it. I don't think I will be taking curves a 75mph.
Thanks

tlw1970
Apr 22nd, 09, 9:39 AM
What year and does any model matter?

tlw1970
Apr 22nd, 09, 9:49 AM
Very nice car. How do I attach pics?

70ChevelleRagtop
Apr 22nd, 09, 1:17 PM
Thanks! You have to be a paid member to use the showroom. The other option you have it to host your photos as one of the photo hosting sites and then put a link to them in your signature.

Gravy_D
Apr 22nd, 09, 6:22 PM
Search here for Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box conversion. It is the way to go.

:thumbsup: on the Jeep box. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

The Hotchkis drop springs are misleading, with new body mounts,new suspension and springs, you likely wont see the drop your looking for.

tlw1970
May 8th, 09, 1:36 PM
What do you recommend? I really want 1" from stock so I can drive it w/o banging up the bottom end. I would like to see some pics of a 70 chevelle 1" lower to see if that is what I want or maybe go lower.

Gravy_D
May 8th, 09, 5:28 PM
What do you recommend? I really want 1" from stock so I can drive it w/o banging up the bottom end. I would like to see some pics of a 70 chevelle 1" lower to see if that is what I want or maybe go lower.


You can use the drop springs, but plan on cutting them to achieve the amount of drop you desire. The hotchkis springs I installed were as high if not higher than stock. You can look at my profile and see a pic of my 68 with 1" of "drop".

tlw1970
May 14th, 09, 1:42 PM
Looks nice. A lot of work! Did you cut a little at a time then install to get that you needed. What does hothckis say about it?
Did you put rear disc on the car? Any other info would help
Thanks

tlw1970
May 14th, 09, 1:44 PM
What brand or supplier of new coil springs did you order?
Thanks

Schurkey
May 14th, 09, 3:58 PM
1) 502 BB aluminum heads
2) 700r4 tranny or Tremec 5 speed?
3) Origional SS wheels (15 x7)
4) 4 wheel 11 disc brakes. (currenty looking at RightStuff)
5) Polygraghite front bushings with stock control arms.
6) Steering box from a 1977-81 Z28 or Trans Am.
7) Hotchkis front/rear springs 1" drop (Front adjustable???)
8) Hotchkis front/rear sway bar.
9) Hotchkis rear control arms. (adjustable???)
10) Drop spindles??? (why) Am I really going to notice a difference?
11) Factory body mounts. Teh suspension will be stiff enough so I wanted to make sure the ride is not like a lumber wagon.

Thanks
That's not the order I'd do things in.

Start with the bushings--suspension and body. I used Poly for both.
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/body_bushings.html

I'd at least consider 16" or larger wheels. More room for bigger brake rotors--although 11" rotors should fit. Actually, I kept the rear drums but am considering 11" drums. Seems to me to be a cheap upgrade and avoids all the problems with rear discs and park brake cables. Might still need to play with the proportioning valve, though.

Your choices for spindles are somewhat limited. There are various GM designs from other vehicles that can be adapted to work on the A body; beware of cheap imported aftermarket spindles which have caused ball joint stud failures due to improper machining of the stud hole.

The F-body steering gear is a disaster for an A body; the turning radius is too large. You need a steering gear with the A body steering stops. I haven't used a Jeep box, so I can't comment. Jim Shea has extensive steering gear experience, though:

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

I don't see anything wrong with OEM front control arms; and OEM (boxed) rear lower arms. I am looking forward to fabricating some upper rear arms using a "johnny joint" for articulation.

Your car is very likely already an inch--or more--lower than it would have been when new, due to spring sag and body bushing compression. Wouldn't hurt to verify ride height measurements.

Gravy_D
May 14th, 09, 6:39 PM
What brand or supplier of new coil springs did you order?
Thanks

I used the Hotchkis springs and have not cut them... yet. I have since installed the drop spindles and am now waiting for my new front wheels I had to order due to backspacing issues. If I still have wheel rubbing issues I may go back to the OE spindles and start cutting the springs then to achieve the ride height I want.

Also I agree with Schurkey's post, and I did use the Jeep box and I highly recommend it.

tlw1970
May 20th, 09, 11:46 PM
Thanks
My car is on a rotissori and the frame is on casters. So I have no springs or anything to measure where I'm at. I have bought new ball joints and bushings and body mounts. for the front and rear. I keep reading so many issues with spring height and I want to install them one time and be done with it. As for the other spindles. What is the reason to put drop spindles on stock control arms? And can you do it? I keep hearing about bump steer and all this other stuff.

cs40racing
May 21st, 09, 1:48 AM
I used the Hotchkis springs and have not cut them... yet. I have since installed the drop spindles and am now waiting for my new front wheels I had to order due to backspacing issues. If I still have wheel rubbing issues I may go back to the OE spindles and start cutting the springs then to achieve the ride height I want.

Also I agree with Schurkey's post, and I did use the Jeep box and I highly recommend it.

Hey Dave,

So in those last pics of your red convertible, that's a Hotchkis 1" spring with 2" drop spindles?

Gravy_D
May 21st, 09, 7:20 AM
Hey Dave,

So in those last pics of your red convertible, that's a Hotchkis 1" spring with 2" drop spindles?


Correct

cs40racing
May 21st, 09, 12:50 PM
Correct

One more question, What's the size and backspacing of your front wheels currently?


Currently i'm at 2" drop spindles with stock height springs and it sits too low so i'm going to try the 2" drop spindles with the Hotchkis springs because I too experienced the Hotchkis springs raised my car when I had the stock spindles.

DougA
May 21st, 09, 6:41 PM
What do you recommend? I really want 1" from stock so I can drive it w/o banging up the bottom end. I would like to see some pics of a 70 chevelle 1" lower to see if that is what I want or maybe go lower.

My 70 Chevelle has the complete Hotchkiss deal on it,if you want to see 1" lower look in my showroom.

Gravy_D
May 21st, 09, 6:43 PM
One more question, What's the size and backspacing of your front wheels currently?


Currently i'm at 2" drop spindles with stock height springs and it sits too low so i'm going to try the 2" drop spindles with the Hotchkis springs because I too experienced the Hotchkis springs raised my car when I had the stock spindles.

18x8x4.25bs currently, but have same wheel w/5.0 backspace should be arriving any day

cs40racing
May 21st, 09, 6:56 PM
18x8x4.25bs currently, but have same wheel w/5.0 backspace should be arriving any day

Thanks Dave,
What size tire?

I'm running a 17X7 on 3.5" backspace with a 235/45-17 and with the 2" drop spindles and STOCK height springs I have minor rubbing, i'm hoping the Hotchkis UNCUT springs will raise it the 1/2" I need to clear the tires properly. From the pictures of your ride it looks like it might actually work!

Gravy_D
May 21st, 09, 8:25 PM
Thanks Dave,
What size tire?

I'm running a 17X7 on 3.5" backspace with a 235/45-17 and with the 2" drop spindles and STOCK height springs I have minor rubbing, i'm hoping the Hotchkis UNCUT springs will raise it the 1/2" I need to clear the tires properly. From the pictures of your ride it looks like it might actually work!

245/40-18. I am betting your gonna be close, reeeal close. If I added it up right, the outer edge of you rim will be 1/4" further inboard than my current wheel,your smaller tire "should" be 5mm skinner and less than 1/4" shorter,hmmm. good luck, but I dont think I could get away with that. I will let you know how my 5"bs wheels work out, I'm hoping 3/4" further inboard is enough. When you intall your Hotchkis springs, dont get too excited if they clear at first, mine dropped another 5/8" just sitting a week after I installed my spindles. Sorry Terry ,I know we kind of hijacked your thread here.

tlw1970
May 26th, 09, 12:57 PM
Nice car!!! Do you have stock spindles and ball joints? Did you do any other suspension mods?
Thanks

cs40racing
May 29th, 09, 2:06 PM
245/40-18. I am betting your gonna be close, reeeal close. If I added it up right, the outer edge of you rim will be 1/4" further inboard than my current wheel,your smaller tire "should" be 5mm skinner and less than 1/4" shorter,hmmm. good luck, but I dont think I could get away with that. I will let you know how my 5"bs wheels work out, I'm hoping 3/4" further inboard is enough. When you intall your Hotchkis springs, dont get too excited if they clear at first, mine dropped another 5/8" just sitting a week after I installed my spindles. Sorry Terry ,I know we kind of hijacked your thread here.

So it was close, so close it didn't change from stock moog springs to Hotchkis drop springs... ARGH!! :mad:

So I ended up throwing the stock spindles back on and cut 2" off the Hotchkis springs and the car sits perfect (I did this because I had Hotchkis springs before that I cut a whole coil off (got a little ahead of myself that time around)), so i've got about a 3/4" gap in the front and 1" gap in the rear. I'll try to take some pictures this weekend.