Brake conversion question [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Brake conversion question


el_coqui
Apr 18th, 09, 5:12 PM
I'm re-posting in this section to see if I can get any advise.
I have a 71 Chevelle

After reading and reading and reading the posts on brake conversions I still have a few questions left unanswer.

I'm planning on using 91-94 Caprice spindles, calipers, bearings and machined ball joints. 12" Rotors from a 89 Camaro 1LE police package, with standard studs. Offset cross shafts and G-body (82-88 Regal/Monte Carlos/El Camino/Malibu/cutlass) tie rod ends.

Will this set up work?
What offset cross shafts to I need or do they only come in one offset?

Also I need to know what donor cars do I get the following parts from.
1-Brake hoses
2-Master Cylinder
3-Power Booster
4-Proportioning valve

I would like to find donor cars to get all of these parts from, once its all set up and working then I will upgrade them with new ones. I do this just in case they don't fit or I try to hard to make them fit and ruin them (less expense).

Many thanks in advance...

novaderrik
Apr 18th, 09, 6:19 PM
the "tall" spindle is old school tech.
for about the same money as buying all those parts and getting them to work, you can add later model Vette or LS1 Camaro 12" brakes to your stock spindle and not have to deal with special tie rods or ball joints or upper control arms or funky bumpsteer.

el_coqui
Apr 19th, 09, 10:14 AM
I'm still sure this old school mod still works for a daily driver, I can get these parts for about $125 plus rotors at the salage yard. I don't think I can do better than that. There is probably lots of guys out there running this setup.

I'm just not sure what donor car I should pull these four parts from.
Anyone else???

Thanks

eabride
Apr 19th, 09, 1:44 PM
That is a pretty cheap way to get 12" rotors, but you may not like how your car drives when you're done. I drove my B-body conversion for less than 400 miles over the course of 2 weeks before I completely tore down the entire front suspension and sold it for a 70% loss. I hated it. It stuck in the corners better, but I never felt like I had control of the car and the steering response sucked.

You might take a look at this thread and consider the SC&C stage 2+ kit if you want better handling:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115940&highlight=cheap+disc+brake

If you bought your rotors new, you can still return them if you haven't modified them. You might be able to use the B-body calipers in a stock style disc set up in which case you would only be out of the money for the spindles, which you might be able to sell on ebay to get some money back. I understand the allure of this low buck swap, but do a search on here for b-body spindle or tall spindle and read the info before you go down this path. You may regret it if you don't.

eabride
Apr 19th, 09, 1:56 PM
To answer your parts question if you do decide to go through with it:

Brake hoses - the stock b-body or second gen f-body should work fine

Master cylinder - the go to master for 4 wheel disc conversions is the C3 corvette master; if you stay with power brakes, just ask for a master from say a 1972 vette with power brakes.

Booster - only GM A-body boosters are a direct bolt in to Chevelles. A stock Chevelle booster is probably best provided that it has a long pushrod (the pushrod stick out beyond the master cylinder mounting face). The long pushrod is necessary to match to the Corvette master. Boosters are more expensive than masters so if you already have a short pushrod booster (pushrod is flush with the mounting face on the booster), just call Master Power or CPP and get the appropriate 1 1/8" bore 4 wheel disc master (it will be a quality new casting, but it'll run you about $100). You can also get a nice all aluminum master with built in proportioning valve from CPP for $200 (high price, but it will accomodate all future brake upgrades as well as long as the bore diameter is correct - its called the MCPV-1).

Proportioning valve - You'll either need to use a stock style 4-wheel drum distribution block or remove your distribution block altogether (just use a T for the front lines and run the rear line directly from the master to the rear axle). In ADDITION to this, you'll need to run an adjustable proportioning valve. Best price for this is the Wilwood or Summit brand (made by Wilwood) dial adjustable valve. Be sure to install it in your rear line AFTER your distribution block.

novaderrik
Apr 19th, 09, 3:07 PM
another option would be to use stock Chevelle disc brakes for your car- you can buy rotors, bearings, wheel seals, calipers, pads, hoses, and master cylinder locally and order the caliper brackets from www.piratejack.net or any number of other places.
the drum spindle is made into a disc spindle by cutting down the upper mounting boss with a cutoff wheel to match the brackets.
sure, it will only be 11" brakes, but it will be more than good enough for 95% of all the Chevelles on the road and really only start to cause problems after many repeated hard stops. plus, replacement parts would be easy to get on a Sunday afternoon.

el_coqui
Apr 22nd, 09, 6:46 PM
Thanks to all for your input.

After all this info it seems like its not worth the time, effort and hassle of matching and getting all these parts and hoping they all fit and work correctly. I am leaning towards Mattsclassicbowties.com for the front disc conversions.

Any other place that you guys think could be better?