what is your sway bar combo front and rear with 550/175 lb springs.
stock a arms and spindles are used.

also, are relocation brackets necessary right away before driving the car, or can i install them later? i need to save some cash, so i was thinking in summer i could get them.

currently have a 15/16 front bar with poly bushings on frame and end links.
there is no bar in rear.
my jegs/ssm arms have holes for a bar, but if i run relocation brackets, i think it will hang to low. i would like to run a set up like a 4th gen f-car uses, where the end links bolt to frame, and the bar bolts to axle tubes using a similar set up to exhaust clamps.

adjustable uppers in top to, if it matters, and 2.5" tail pipes out the back.
and pinion angle will have to adjusted to correct?

thanks

aaron

With 550/175 your best bet would be a 1-1/8" front, and 7/8" rear bar.

If you have 11" rear springs with no shims, you shouldn't need relocation brackets at all.

thanks.
yes just the 5x11 black magic springs in rear. nothing else.

cool, then if i dont need them, thats an extra 85 bucks i could put towards rear shocks.


aaron

im going to bump this thread so i dont have to start another one.

disregard my original post..

what are you sway bar combos from and rear with 550/175 spring?
what size and type (such as hollow or solid)
i am running hotchkis (bilstein) shocks on the front, and stockers on the rear which i will be switching to probably hotchkis also.

i like the pro-touring bars that SC&C are selling now for the rear that bolt to the frame and not the lower a arms.

would 1 1/4" be over kill for the front? i have a friend who has what he can remember a 1 1/4" PST "solid" bar i believe. probably too much right?

thanks

aaron

edit..

want to add i have the following springs

BM 550lbs 5x9.5" w/ tall adjusters in front
BM 175lbs 5.5x11" in rear
stock upper and lower a arms with stock BJ's right now. but i dont think the arms or BJ's will effect what bar size i need... correct?

You might think about ditching those SSM/Jegs bars. I used to have them on the car and they severely limit articulation causing suspension bind.

they made a world of difference over the stock boxed lowers i had with poly bushings.
the overall width is a little smaller than the stockers with poly bushings. i dont notice any bind..
i have the jegs uppers also, but they have rod ends on the frame side.

aaron

Our 1-1/4" front and 1-1/8" rear tubular pro-touring bars were developed with spring rates very close to yours but with tall ball joints in the front suspension. Since you have stock geometry a 1-1/4" solid or 1-5/16 tubular in the front may work better. P/n for our tubular bars are as follows

55706 1-1/4" tubular front sway bar
55703 1-5/16" tubular front sway bar
55864 64-67 1-1/8" tubular pro-touring rear sway bar
55868 68-72 1-1/8" tubular pro-touring rear sway bar


Mark at SC&C has some of the best pricing on these bars and can help you get the right bar for your combination.

Dave,

Thanks man.
I am in a pickle because my origional intent was to do the SPC arms and tall upper BJ's this winter, but i bought nitrous instead, and realized i wont be able to stop 4 wheel drums from 115-117mph. haha so they are on the back burner now until later this year.

i will have to contact mark as i have some other questions.

thanks again

aaron

wow i just realized that marks shop is about 40 minutes from where i live.
i have been on the site 1000+ times, and never knew this!

haha awesome

aaron