4 Wheel Disk Conversion [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: 4 Wheel Disk Conversion


hotrod71
Apr 15th, 09, 4:48 PM
Hello Everyone,

My 71 chevelle has been converted to 4 wheel disk brakes prior to me buying it but the lines have not been ran yet. Can you provide me with your tips, ideas, and or anything to help me out with running them? I appreciate all of your time... !!! ROD ON:beers:

GenPac
Apr 15th, 09, 5:26 PM
Are you considering purchasing pre-bent steel (or stainless) lines? Get yourself an assembly manual for specifics on how the lines ran from the factory and think really hard about weather or not it's worth it to you to purchase pre-bent lines. They won't be perfect, mind you, but it's usually easier to start with something than nothing. Hit up a repro shop for the clips that hold the lines to the frame, also.

eabride
Apr 15th, 09, 8:15 PM
Just give someone like Inlinetube a call and they can hook you up with everything that you need. I suggest that you run 3/16" tubing everywhere (most drums used 1/4" on the back end originally). The stock line location is pretty much the best. I considered a lot of alternative when I ran mine, but the stock always packaged the best. Bending hard line yourself can be a real pain. Get a good flaring tool if you are going to do it yourself (stainless is a pain to flare, BTW) and be prepared to have to redo several lines. I would suggest that you purchase at least the front hard lines - those are a real pain to get right.

If you are running a stock style distribution block with the brake pressure sensor, then you need to make sure that you put your adj. proportioning valve after the distribution block. I personally just ran the front line to a T to go to both wheels and then just ran the rear line straight from the master to the prop valve to the rear axle.

hotrod71
Apr 16th, 09, 4:10 PM
Are you considering purchasing pre-bent steel (or stainless) lines? Get yourself an assembly manual for specifics on how the lines ran from the factory and think really hard about weather or not it's worth it to you to purchase pre-bent lines. They won't be perfect, mind you, but it's usually easier to start with something than nothing. Hit up a repro shop for the clips that hold the lines to the frame, also.

Thanks for the help.... The stainless lines came with the car in a bundle. I will most likely run them along the factory locations to utilize the holes already there. However, The bent lines sound much easier then running them myself. Need to take a look at the cost of that though.

hotrod71
Apr 16th, 09, 4:13 PM
Just give someone like Inlinetube a call and they can hook you up with everything that you need. I suggest that you run 3/16" tubing everywhere (most drums used 1/4" on the back end originally). The stock line location is pretty much the best. I considered a lot of alternative when I ran mine, but the stock always packaged the best. Bending hard line yourself can be a real pain. Get a good flaring tool if you are going to do it yourself (stainless is a pain to flare, BTW) and be prepared to have to redo several lines. I would suggest that you purchase at least the front hard lines - those are a real pain to get right.

If you are running a stock style distribution block with the brake pressure sensor, then you need to make sure that you put your adj. proportioning valve after the distribution block. I personally just ran the front line to a T to go to both wheels and then just ran the rear line straight from the master to the prop valve to the rear axle.

I'll have to check and see if the car even came with a block or valve. If not what manufacturer do you recommend? Thanks!

eabride
Apr 16th, 09, 7:16 PM
Wilwood makes an inexpensive adjustable prop valve available at Summit. I think the Summit brand one is a Wilwood as well and can be had for a few dollars less. If you already have the stainless tube, then go for it. Hopefully, it all 3/16". Just remember to get yourself a damn good flaring tool and follow the instructions carefully. You can get the factory line clips as well as stainless tube nuts from Inlinetube among others and then just bend your tube to fit. I would suggest omitting the block, just use a T on the front line, and put the prop valve in the line to the rear axle. What master are you running (I am assuming you have a correct 4 wheel disc master)? Some of the aftermarket masters use the front cylinder for the rear brakes - you'll need to get your lines going to the correct outlet.