My frame seems to be off . According to the shop manual for the 72, it is off approx 1/4" in the front. I guess a trip to the frame shop once the frame is stripped is in order.

Front drivers side frame horn

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/024.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/025.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/026.jpg

Looks like that thing was hit HARD in the front at some time...

Looks like a lot of work. What about a replacement frame?

Contact Larry Perkins plmnutz@cox.net he has a junk yard full of old stuff and I purchased the rear section of a frame from him and grafted it into mine due to a hit prior to my acquisition of the car. I know he had full frames for sale a while ago. He's located either in Kansas or Missouri, I think near Kansas City.

Rich

Or, if you don't want to cut and graft contact Sundell

www.sundellauto.com

they usually have a good supply of frames

So I have two options. Buy a new frame or graft in a new piece. :sad:

I take it this cannot be straightened by a frame alignment?:noway:

I would have the frame guy come over and look at and tell you just what it will take to get it straight. Seems to me based on your pics it would be a job and then how straight is it in the end. May have wheel alignment issues etc..

If you can squeeze a new frame (old but in good shape) into your budget I'd personally go that route.

If your going to do it, do it right the first time. I'm always thinking about the cheap way to do it and have since scrapped that thought process for it has in the end cost me more than if I did it right the first time.

Rich

I will take it to my friend who has a frame alignment machine and see what he can do if anything. If he pronunces it DOA, then I look for a new frame :)

That frame has seen better days. For all the work you are going through, you should replace it with one without any prior damage. You'll be glad you did.

I will take it to my friend who has a frame alignment machine and see what he can do if anything. If he pronunces it DOA, then I look for a new frame :)
Thats what Id do also.

Brian, from what I can see in your pics, it's out more than a 1/4". Looks to be swayed left quite a bit.
This is not an overly difficult repair and I would suggest having your friend have a look at it. There is the issue of rust that your friend may or may not point out (it's difficult to assess with pics).
If there is a problem with wheel alignment or panel fitment, then the frame was not repaired properly, simple as that and do not take anything less.
I have repaired many frames with a lot more damage than what you've got. As a matter of fact, the '67 in my shop right now was bent in three places from seperate incidences and is now straight and fitment and alignment are fine.
Yes, there is concern of frame damage and most shy away from it. But, I repeat; if things don't line up, then the frame was not repaired properly, don't accept anything less.
Basically what I'm trying to say is don't discount the possibility of a repair.This is my opinion, based on my experience. Of course, cost to repair is a factor in your decision. Good luck with your project!

I am going down and remeasure the frame now.

Here is a picture of the whole frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/020.jpg

Here are some more pictures of the frame. Measuring from center to center of the two radiator support mounting holes I come up with 39 5/16"

According to the shop manual the holes are supposed to be 19 1/2" from the center of the frame.

The two holes inboard of the front body mounting holes are 38 3/4" inches apart and they are to be 19 3/8" from the center.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/001-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/002-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/003-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/005-1.jpg

Now,
Find a couple of points in the front, and measure to the rear diagnally(sp?).
Need to check for square as well.

i did that whole measuring deal on mine a couple weeks ago just to be sure it was right.It came out square so i was relieved.

Brian, based on the pictures, the whole section from the front body mounts forward is swayed left. I can even measure this, with a ruler, from the top view picture you sent. As Bryan says, cross measure from the front body mount hole to the opposite side rad support hole and you will see this. Yes, the front frame rails are too far apart by about 5/16". also, more than likely, the frame rails are up/down from datum (height specs).

There is about a 1" difference in square from the front body mount to radiator support holes.:mad:

I will get this project back on track one way or the other but this needs to be fixed or a replacement frame needs to be procured. :yes:

There is about a 1" difference in square from the front body mount to radiator support holes.:mad:

I will get this project back on track one way or the other but this needs to be fixed or a replacement frame needs to be procured. :yes:

Measure from the core holes to the front lower control arm mounts. Also from the center back wheel to the center front wheel. Straight up and X'ed.
From this pic. It looks like the whole front third is racked at the boxed to C channel point..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/020.jpg

Also, measure from the front body mount hole to the rad support hole on the same side. You will see that the driver's side is short, with most of the damage at the bend behind the front wheel. This is why you get a reading of only being swayed 1" left, when it is more than that.

I don't see the problem. Perfection was not an attribute of these cars.

I don't see the problem. Perfection was not an attribute of these cars.
Perfections not the issue.
Can you see the problem now??
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc210/furball8994/crap/020-2.jpg

How'd you do that, Scott!
And don't worry Brian, if the pic was taken more center, it wouldn't look so bad.

I talked to the frame guy and he said he can fix it.I trust him we have known each other for 35 years and went to High School together. He said he also knows where there is some frames locally from a guy who uses them for stock cars.

So the project is back on track. It will be going to the doctor in 3 weeks.

While at his shop, I found a 350 4 bolt with a TH400 and a 402 out of a 70 Chevelle. I am going to be buying one but I have to decide which one.

I get first rights on them.

Which to get?;)

I would also like to thank all of you for your help on this project so far. Your advice and encouragement have been a bigger help than you realize.

I really want to save this car from the fate that was waiting it, a slow rotting death in a pasture. She deserves better. Working on her is one of the highlights of my day and seems to be theraputic.

Please post before and after pics!

Brian,
you got me going earlier tonight after reading your posts and the various comments. My chassis is about exactly where you are and after reading what you wrote, I went out and measured up my chassis, Something I should have done 2 weeks ago. I measured front to rear, side to side, cross angles from front mount to opposite rear mount, corner to side and the bank shots and combination shots also. I shot every line I could both off center and diagonally for squarenes. On all my measurement, I was either dead on or within 1/8". The one measurement that was + 3/16" was where the tranny x-member goes. The only thing I haven't done is use the 3-4-5 triangle for squarenes. I felt like I was back in school doing geometry and trig. It all appears to be good. If I ever find level ground I will shoot the elevations for trueness. It was actually an hour of fun for a change without swearing. I'm glad I read your post today, it got another piece of the oddesy of the rust bucket done.

Roland in NY

There is about a 1" difference in square from the front body mount to radiator support holes.:mad:

I will get this project back on track one way or the other but this needs to be fixed or a replacement frame needs to be procured. :yes:

I obviously missed this post.

The frame is fixed and I will be bringing it home tomorrow. I will post pictures then.

Here are the pictures after I unloaded it from the trailer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/001-8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/002-5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/003-3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/005-4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/006-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/007-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/008-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Ogstad/Chevelle/009.jpg

Hmm...............how does it measure out?

as soon as it quits raining I will find that out. :)

I'm not trying to be an A**hole but the buckles behind the top control arm look awful.When he was pulling the mash on that side ,with tension on the chains he should have used a torch and hammer to relieve the pressure and straighten the buckle.He could have cut a window on the other side of the damage and used the combination of heat and hammer,and dolly to make it smooth then weld up the window.Every time you look in the wheel well you will see it.Where I live that wouldn't even pass a safety inspection.Not trying to be a dick,that is my oppinion based on 25 years of collision repair experience.

I just went out and measured the squareness and it is within a 1/16" and the manual says anything over 3/16" means that corrections need to be made.

Good to hear things are in place and glad to see no heat was used.
However, I don't like to dis other shops but, my concern is that there are no signs of stress relieving, the wrinkles and collapses that are still visible, and that the rust wasn't cleaned prior to welding.
I sure hope that you got a good deal on the work done.

I paid $100.00

I paid $100.00

That's not a deal, that's a steal! :D

He is a friend. And he did what I asked him to do straighten the frame. He said it was safe and would drive straight. It is not going to be a 100 Point show car. I want to use as much of the original car that I can. I want the car to retain her "soul"

I assume whatever it hit or hit it is what retired her to the pasture in the first place.
I am happy with it. He did what I asked, no more no less. Yes I could have probably had more done and he would have done it.

When I restored my 1944 Willys MB. I replaced everything and anything with new and I now regret not saving what I could have. I do not want to repeat that.

Good to hear, Brian. Now you're back on track with the project!