On our 68, the turn signals work fine including the coordination with the brake lights and cancelling. That's if I don't actuate the lever too far on a right hand turn. If I do move the lever a bit more aggressive (a tiny bit, not muscling it) it passes the sweet spot, an the brake light on the left side will turn off. Scooch it down a bit, and the brake light comes back on.

I am guessing there is a stop that is worn or broken letting a contact by-pass? What do most of you find as the mode of failure?

I see some replacements at Muscle Factory and eBay. I haven't tried Checker or AutoZone yet. It looks like replacing the switch is a monster, huh?

I'd say that is a fairly UNcommon problem but sounds like you need a new turn signal switch to me.

It's not all that hard to do if you have a steering wheel puller, just a little time consuming.

Is there such a thing as a "steering wheel puller", or is it just some generic two bolt arm with a center-coned threaded puller?

Is there such a thing as a "steering wheel puller", or is it just some generic two bolt arm with a center-coned threaded puller?

Pretty much, a special one is not needed. To make the job easier tie a wire or string on the harness when you pull it up through the column. It will really be a big help when installing the new one. FWIW the 68 is the easiest year to change the turn signal switch. After that there were a lot more parts in the column that had to be removed, some with special tools, to get down to the switch.

Did you build those nice exhaust cut outs or is it something I can buy for my car? I found it impossible to disconnect the pipes from the headers with an H or X pipe and still have enough ground clearance to drive the car.

snip... FWIW the 68 is the easiest year to change the turn signal switch... snip

Yeah! Finally having a 68 has an advantage. I get tired of seeing catalog application charts saying 64-67, 69-72. Wait, I bet it's gunna be like that with the switch, huh :sad:

I bought the cut out Y's, they are a standard piece from Thorley, or someone like that. They come with the cut out leg and plate flange welded in place. The front flange is loose, you get them aligned how you want and then weld them. I scabbed the rear reducer cone to go to 2.5", that is a Hooker piece as I recall. It's standard stuff from Summit and Jegs. It makes it way easy to uncork the motor, and is a big crowd pleaser on "open header legal" main street show cruises.

It might be the turn signal canceling cam (the part the turn signal arm screws onto)

Thanks I will look into getting a set for my Nova.

A dead spot in the lever may be a corroded contact. A piece of sandpaper should cure it. I am not fond of the new switches. Springs are too weak on the ones I have used lately and had to reuse the Gm springs on the aftermarket switch to make it work correctly.

Found it. Looking at the actual switch, there's a triangular shaped component that has the lever attached to it. The contacts are on the opposite side. Something is broken allowing the triangle to go past the regular position, and the sliding contacts for the brakes disconnects.

I bought a new chinese switch, but it has some intermittents that my Spaghetti LED rear lights don't like.

Soooo.... I am trying to figure which is better, get the chinese more consistent, or make a stop for the triangle thing.

take those led lights out of your car and throw them as far away as you can.

take those led lights out of your car and throw them as far away as you can.

I don't need lights? Huh?

I fixed the original switch so it works perfectly. There is a plastic stud that the triangle was finally stopping on (past where it should have). I put a zip tie in the stud to make it a little bigger, so the triangle hits it sooner and stops at the right place.

take those led lights out of your car and throw them as far away as you can.

Can we ask why?

By using LED's you gain:
For all practical purposes instant full intensity "ON".
20ms or more in reaction time for the knucklehead behind you to wake up.
100,000+ hours of service life.
A cut in amperage draw by 2/3rds or more.
Significantly brighter than an 1157 incandescent bulb.

Zip tie repairs.......how classy