The high build primer being used is Maximum 2K urethane, which is not for direct metal to metal contact, as their Extreme Version is. I noticed this and gave the painter 6 cans of Evercoat Acid Etching Primer to put down first. There was to be an Epoxy Primer, but that didn't happen.

Will the Etching Primer protect the metal if its going to sit outside for 1-2 years before its color coated, as I won't have a garage again until then and don't want a color coat I have to pay for but cant protect from the elements.

The can said it can go over existing paint also, and so I hope it can go over the filler used on a couple of patch panels also, all before the high-build primer.

Will the Etching Primer protect the metal if its going to sit outside for 1-2 years
No

Ouch, ouch, ouch. And that applies with the high-build on top of it, and a primer sealer on top of that also?

Would it have been any different if an epoxy primer had been used first, or could I even put a coat of epoxy primer over the high-build, followed by another coat of high-build and still not do the color-coat now?

Painter told me it would get an epoxy primer first, but didn't do it. Is this now set up for failure and more bodyshop negotiation problems?

Top coat is for protection, sealer will help but not forever.

Etching primer doesn't need epoxy primer over it. Etching primer with high build/filler primer is fine, but thats assuming the car is going to be top coated. Why isn't the car being painted? I'd find a place to store it inside, or at the very least, keep a good water proof cover on the car, till it's finished.

Its not going to be top-coated now I'm losing my garage and its going to be stored on a gravel lot by the local drag strip and the high winds and small rocks will beat up new paint. Don't want to do a new top-coat until my divorce is final and I have a garage again.

How can I protect the metal and keep it in primer for 1-2 years? Right now there is "some filler", then acid etching primer and one coat of high-build urethane 2K on it. Bodyman failed to put the epoxy primer on first and I at least got cans of the etching primer before the single coat of high build went on.

Am I better off to do a coat of epoxy primer now after sanding the first coat of high-build and then another coat of high build? Or just pull the vehicle fromt the shop and start over somewhere else and eat the expensive lesson. Just don't want a top coat now but dont' want rusted metal underneath. Front clip is all new goodmark, so the factory black paint on it may be epoxy. I'll call Goodmark tomorrow.

Just sand the high build that is on the car right now, and shoot 2 coats of epoxy over the car. It will seal it and protect it..

And just start over in a few years.

Just read the instructions for House of Kolor KP2CF Chromate Free Kwikure Epoxy Primer, which it says can go over "OEM" primers, but that you can't use any self-etching primers "under" this primer or adhesion problems will likely result. The epoxy primer would have a level of "high' build" between it and the self-etching primer, but it seems I may be stepping onto thin ice in what adheres to what now.

Is this enough of a barrier between the epoxy and self-etching primer? The vehicle is in Colorado -considered a dryer state - and not in the snowier mountains but sees some snow here in Denver.

Hate to overthink this, but don't want to spend money building an expensive skyscraper on a poor foundation, so to speak.

Primer will slowly allow moisture to pass, if your not going to topcoat now then it should be redone all together when you start over.

How about this? Find a good shop that's willing to take a couple of years to have your car all painted for you.

Yeah, give them the car and pay them upfront in full... that should keep it in storage for 3-4 years minimum....

Just read the instructions for House of Kolor KP2CF Chromate Free Kwikure Epoxy Primer, which it says can go over "OEM" primers, but that you can't use any self-etching primers "under" this primer or adhesion problems will likely result. The epoxy primer would have a level of "high' build" between it and the self-etching primer, but it seems I may be stepping onto thin ice in what adheres to what now.

Is this enough of a barrier between the epoxy and self-etching primer? The vehicle is in Colorado -considered a dryer state - and not in the snowier mountains but sees some snow here in Denver.

Hate to overthink this, but don't want to spend money building an expensive skyscraper on a poor foundation, so to speak.
Lightly sand the high build and apply the epoxy. If worst comes to worst, when you pull the car from pasture in the 1-2 years it will sit out there, you will know if the epoxy will react with the etching primer underneath.

Etch primer is NOT water resistant nor is high build primer or urethane primer.

If you want the car to sit outside for an extended period of time without a topcoat then you NEED to epoxy prime the vehicle. Epoxy will not wick moisture allowing the metal underneath to rust. Etch and urethane primers wick water and soon you will have rust developing under the primer.

Spray the thing with some cheap Urethane. $100 will buy the paint and activator.

Hate to overthink this, but don't want to spend money building an expensive skyscraper on a poor foundation, so to speak.

I hate to say it, but those 6 cans of rattle can etch you bought is about the weakest foundation you can build upon.
If you havent applied the urethane yet I would sand off that stuff and apply a REAL etch primer atleast or better yet epoxy primer.

IMO rattle can etch is a can of worms just waiting to be opened, there is NO WAY I as a professional would ever coat an entire car let alone a panel with rattle can etch...Eric

Even worse, the spray can etching primer went over a combination of bare metal and filler, and the high build is on top of the etching primer.

NOW that I know what I need - too late - I face a decision of whether to sand/grind everything off (and $2,000) in labor or go with a McPaint shop and put a Sherwin Williams (probably Dimension budget brand) base/clear on it for $800 more and get a few years out of it. Or grind off the $2,000 and spend another $5,000 or more somewhere elso to do it right. Think I'm probably going to stay with the cheaper combo and write it off to experience. From what I've seen in threads about being taken advantage of, I may be getting a bodyshop education for somewhat cheap. The body had many dings/small dents.

Painter/welder/fabricator had bid $2,000 to "rough" it in for final sanding after doing the patch panels.

Painter/welder/fabricator said it would get epoxy primer first, and then didn't do it as the labor hours added up on a fixed bid and cut material costs before I learned the gravity of what had occured....but all thats part of a different thread. The fellow is a well respected chassis man on 6-7 second cars, but was working out of his depth due to slow business. He had done roll bars, exhaust, chassis work for me on other stuff without any problems.

Looks like its going to be a McPaint shop to provide a color coat for protection and see how long the rattle-can acid etching primer lasts. But I guess this is how it was done before epoxy primer came along- but not from rattle cans.

Read an article last year in Hot Rod where they used rustoleum in a can and paint rollers then they wet sanded and buffed it out for $50 and it looked good according to them, if you just want to buy some time.