I have a 68 chevelle malibu with a 454 with a 4 speed. I am looking to find out what works best the anti-hop bars (like edelbrock Part #5213 puts out) verse lift bars (lakewood part #21312 puts out)? I want mostly an almost bolt in application. I am trying my best to not change the suspension or at least as little as possible and get rid of the wheel hopping or rear end jumping around when trying to do a burn out or take off from a stop. Can anybody give input on this and what combinations you are running or whats best to run?

Which one will work best for you depends on your ride height...
stock, or lowered: use the LOWER relocation brackets
raised ride height: use the UPPER relocation brackets

box the lower control arms, purchase adjustable uppers and set your pinion angle down 2 degrees or get the lowers parellel to the ground.the tires will bite hard but your hop prblem will go away

Thanks guys i will try to decide on something b/c i sucks when you really get on it and the rear end jumps around

Hello
I just wanted to suggest that a set of lower control arm relocation brackets would be the best bang for the buck for that problem! Below is a link to show you what I am explaining and also what we have to offer. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
http://umiperformance.com/1025?category_id=6
Thanks
Brad :thumbsup:

The FIRST thing you check is the rear ride height: the rear lower arms should be parallel to the ground. Air shocks or tall springs to fit the tires around the fender lips will raise the body, and the front of the trailing arm is higher than the rear--a disaster for hop.

The SECOND thing you do is verify that the control arm bushings aren't wiped out--which would be HUGELY common.

After that, it's kinda up to you. I went with the old Lakewood No-Hops; and they work wonderfully. I have heard of a couple of people with the Edelbrock version that had problems afterwards with pinion angle. No personal experience there, though.

Both are beneficial. Both have potential issues. The uppers can cause a clearance issue if you try and go cheap. Such as using hotchkis upper arms with edelbrock anti-hops, instead of using the adjustable edelbrock arms. The hotchkis ones have a bigger "knuckle" where it connects the rear end, though it can be clearanced. If you ever want to use a rear sway bar, then the lower relocation brackets can put the sway bar almost on the ground unless you build some sort of bracket to tuck it back up. Also the upper bars have little room for install error. As the lowers can be a bit tricky trying to get the drill to put the hole in the brackets in the exact same spot on both the right and left sides. Just some fair warning from someone who has already dealt with both problems. Personally I suggest using both lower and upper brackets being I run a manual and like as much traction as I can get being on street tires usually.

And no air shocks ! !

The FIRST thing you check is the rear ride height: the rear lower arms should be parallel to the ground. Air shocks or tall springs to fit the tires around the fender lips will raise the body, and the front of the trailing arm is higher than the rear--a disaster for hop.

The SECOND thing you do is verify that the control arm bushings aren't wiped out--which would be HUGELY common.

After that, it's kinda up to you. I went with the old Lakewood No-Hops; and they work wonderfully. I have heard of a couple of people with the Edelbrock version that had problems afterwards with pinion angle. No personal experience there, though.

I've heard this comment before about making the rear LCA's paralell with the ground....it aint happening...the wheels would have to be so far up in the wheel well for that to happen.

The no-hop bars all work great. Make sure everything else is OK before doing any bolt-ons.

Here's one for ya...my rear suspension was all worn out, sloppy bushings, springs etc. Rebuilt the rear suspension....now I have wheel hop :clonk:

I've heard this comment before about making the rear LCA's paralell with the ground....it aint happening...the wheels would have to be so far up in the wheel well for that to happen.

The no-hop bars all work great. Make sure everything else is OK before doing any bolt-ons.

Here's one for ya...my rear suspension was all worn out, sloppy bushings, springs etc. Rebuilt the rear suspension....now I have wheel hop :clonk:

SSM's/Jegsters work and they move the rear of the lower arm down even farther than stock. Trying to make them parallel with the ground would move the IC somewhere out beyond the front bumper. You would have so much rearend squat the rear bumper would drag.

And no air shocks ! !

+1 for "no air-shocks". I went from air-shocks to the $25 a piece adjustable drag shocks (jegs or summit) and dropped a full 0.4 seconds in the 1/4 mile. Best $50 bucks ever spent.

No air shocks, that was a big problem on my 70 chevelle i had wheel hop really bad also. I put on the edelbrock anti hop bars and gone. I was just kinda wondering on if anything else was as good. I am gonna buy a set of anti hop bars like lakewood style and try that.

+1 for "no air-shocks". I went from air-shocks to the $25 a piece adjustable drag shocks (jegs or summit) and dropped a full 0.4 seconds in the 1/4 mile. Best $50 bucks ever spent.

How does the adjustable drag shocks work?

SSM's/Jegsters work and they move the rear of the lower arm down even farther than stock. Trying to make them parallel with the ground would move the IC somewhere out beyond the front bumper. You would have so much rearend squat the rear bumper would drag.

Actually making the LCA's close to parallel with the ground will lower the IC and move it move towards center.............

The rear drag shocks are easy to adjust. I started with stock heavy duty front springs and regular shocks and only changed the rear shocks. Set at the 70/30 setting dropped my times considerably and helped with wheel spin. They did give a stiff street ride. I then went to moroso small block front springs and front drag shocks set on 80/20. This made no time difference but streetability was much nicer. I then took the rear shocks from the 70/30 setting to the 50/50 setting. This also made no track time difference, but the street ride is now much smoother and seems to corner better as well. To give real world numbers going from air-shocks to drag shocks in the rear alone made my 60ft time drop from 2.3 to 2.0. I am running 410 rear gears, 26in tall drag nittos (that suck on the track but very streetable), and a manual transmission.

Ride height, ride height, ride height...

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/516/Rear_suspension-Model.jpg

:thumbsup: Bump for the very nice visual on IC in relation to control arms.