I just got my frame back frome being powdercoated! I'm so excited because this is the first forward progress I've made on the car in at least six years. The pictures just don't do justice to how awesome this baby looks. If anyone in the Indianapolis area needs powdercoating done, be sure to look up Carrara Powdercoating in Anderson, IN. After stripping all seams were shot with a rust inhibitor primer, after that a zincrich powder coat was applied, followed by the semi-gloss topcoat. I ought to be able to drive this thing through the ocean and not have to worry about rust :thumbsup:

Here is a before pic:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/IMG_1092.JPG

After sandblasting (don't mind the camaro subframe:)):
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/IMG_1153.JPG

Back home:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/IMG_1231.JPG

Starting to put the pieces back together:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/IMG_1244.JPG

I also ordered up a 3" exhaust system from Pypes with their race-pro mufflers - the quality is incredible!

Thanks for letting me share!

very cool, I wish I had the space to do a frame off resto every time I see pictures like these!
what is the belt connected to on the engine???

Matt

Matt,

That is the oil pump for the dry sump oiling system.

The engine and all the front accessories are an unfinished project, but I couldn't wait to set her down in the frame :D

Very nice... when you fit the Pypes, be sure to start at the rear and work forward... much easier that way.

Matt,

That is the oil pump for the dry sump oiling system.

The engine and all the front accessories are an unfinished project, but I couldn't wait to set her down in the frame :D

I thought it was something like that. Do the nascar cars run that too? For some reason it looked familiar on the diecast that I have

Matt

Wow! Dry sump oiling, belt drive cam, motor plate, sheet metal intake, crank trigger ignition. Looks like a Pro Stock Truck motor in a Chevelle. That Chevelle is going to be outstanding.

Very nice... when you fit the Pypes, be sure to start at the rear and work forward... much easier that way.

That's an excellent tip.

As I was thinking about that I could envision the reducer to x-pipe connection length screwing up the whole install, but not noticeable until you're at the tailpipes.

Really excellent idea.

And Adam, that looks great! I remember the 1st time I saw my frame from the powder coater too. Way better than I ever thought it would look.

I just got my frame back frome being powdercoated! I'm so excited because this is the first forward progress I've made on the car in at least six years. The pictures just don't do justice to how awesome this baby looks.

Thanks for letting me share!

Looks good! :thumbsup: It really is a nice feeling when parts start going back together.

I was thinking of getting my frame coated, may I ask how mych it set you back?

TIm

looks great:yes:

very nice

I was thinking of getting my frame coated, may I ask how mych it set you back?

TIm

I was going to ask the same thing. Also, did you have any other parts like suspension peices or brackets done to match?

Mine was $550 .....I thought it was not out of line for the area.I also did the rear end, springs and misc brackets for additional $$. My control arms were after market.

I would suspect that the misc pieces that Adam has will also be powdercoated... it looks mighty nice.

The frame looks great but the motor is a work of art! Great package:cool:

Mine was $550 .....I thought it was not out of line for the area.I also did the rear end, springs and misc brackets for additional $$. My control arms were after market.

I would suspect that the misc pieces that Adam has will also be powdercoated... it looks mighty nice.

WOW! Where did you get it powdercoated?
Bodyshop quoted me $500.00 just to paint a frame, and I have to blast it!

Is "Black Beauty" too harsh of an abrasive to clean a frame?

looks amazing....the motor plate, sheetmetal intake, dry sump oiling....mmm so sexy lol.

Stk1514..... if you are in So. Oregon, I'll tell ya.... otherwise - shipping would kill you and the frame would get torn up.

Did they blast it and coat it for that price??

Tim

Yes, they did. Also told me that the car has never been hit and the frame was one of the straightest frames they had ever coated.

When I had the differential done, they had to cook it a couple of times to get all the oil out, and then they misplaced the carrier bearing caps and, before they found them, offered to pay for new caps and a line bore of the differential. They are great people with great customer service.

Here is a picture - as you can see, it looks like they did a good job like Adam got.

(ok... a bit dusty in that picture...)

The Pypes systems are great. The worst part is getting all those stickers off every piece. I also had my frame powder coated. Cost $500. I went a little overboard, I had about $3K worth of coating done, but in my opion its worth it.

I was thinking of getting my frame coated, may I ask how mych it set you back?

TIm

Tim, I have $75 in sandblasting the frame, transmission crossmember, and core support. To have the frame and crossmember powdercoated was $411.99. I did not get the core support powdercoated in this first batch because I need to do some fab work on it. I'll have another large load of powdercoat items like the rear end housing, control arms, etc...

I was going to ask the same thing. Also, did you have any other parts like suspension peices or brackets done to match?

I'm undecided if I'm going to have all the suspension done in the same color, or possibly provide some contrast with some silvers/grays.

The Pypes systems are great. The worst part is getting all those stickers off every piece. I also had my frame powder coated. Cost $500. I went a little overboard, I had about $3K worth of coating done, but in my opion its worth it.

Since I'm trying to lay out my exhaust system without the body on, did you guys need to shorten/modify the length of the tailpipes, or do they exit in the right spot? I have stainless SS oval tips to finish off the rear if that matters any.

Here are a couple more pics from today, I'm in the process of routing all of the oil lines for my dry sump system:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/IMG_1251.JPG

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/IMG_1249.JPG


And here is a closer shot of the intake manifold, I fabbed/welded this thing up myself. Wanted something a little different that what you normally see at the car shows :thumbsup: As soon as I'm finished with it I'm sending it off to be polished along with some other goodies. I also have different valve covers to put on besides the ugly ones in the picture. And don't worry, those ugly, extra long bolts will be addressed too :)

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/IMG_1247.JPG

The engine will be backed by a beefy Richmond 5-speed and 9-inch ford rear end.

Thank you to everyone for the compliments! The pictures probably make it all look nicer than it is.

Thank you to everyone for the compliments! The pictures probably make it all look nicer than it is.

Looks just fine from my monitor ;) . Nice work. Diggin' the motor and your custom fabbing work. Going to be a monster.

Adam.... you must start at the rear of the car with the tail pipes and then all of your adjusting for length is at the pipes that exit the collector on the header. To do otherwise will make you a crazy man and curse alot. I will have the shop weld the tips on the exhaust and they will need to cut the tail pipe back about 6 inches. If I had attempted to start from the front and work my way back, everything would have been off.

In fact, I will bet the instructions tell you to start from the rear and work forward.

And... you are doing a great job on this. Looks very nice.

And you are a great welder also! Nice bead.