hey guys first post.

i have a 71 lemans that i am redoing the entire front end with sc&c stage 2 kit and spc springs and bilstien shocks..

ive spent around 5 hours trying to remove these dam lower control arm bolts on both sides of the car closer to the frame rail.... the bolt itself spins but wont unthread. the nut isoff and ive been smackin this bolt trying to beat it out but being that the frame is there i cant hit it square.. its not budging at all.... ive sprayed thesethings with a can of wd40 ive evern put the nut back on takin a long extention and a socket and tried to hit it that way and still nothing im stumped... also after i getthese damn arms out should i go with aftermarket ones or stay with the stockers? car will be mostly a Fun daily driver, weekend car and occasionally i will go to the strip. i just want to know if it worth the extra 500 or so to go tubular

on side notes a one more questions..

i am doing a break swap and have all my parts except for the caliper brackets (thry are on order)...do i need to buy the break dust shield or will everything be ok without them?

get an impact gun on and hold the trigger. this will spin the bolt real fast and break all the rust that has built up on the bolt and holding it in. Once you do that you will be able to pull it out with your fingers

thats a pretty good idea... but im not sure i can get the gun on it because of the frame being in the way.... would an impact swivel do the trick? what about the aftermarket ones should i buy them or use the stocks? thanks for the reply so fast btw

Unless your planning a serious G-machine or track car. I think the stockers will be all you need.. As for the swivel. Thats fine. What ever you need to do to connect to impact. The trick is spinning it at speeds.

thanks bro much appreciated ...what about the shield for the breaks i really hope it is not needed as i didnt pick one up

yeah man the stock stoff works good. just get some good bushings and you are set to go. as fas ball joiints i like buying moogs where are top notch and made in the u,s, of a. The china made ones are really crappy. compare them side to side and you will see. be careful of spinning the swivel that it dont come off the gun and knock some teeth out

the inner sleeve of the bushings are rusted to the bolts and spinning along with them- the impact will do you no good at all.
can you get a sawzall blade bewteen the arm and frame to cut the bolts? that's probably going to be the only thing that works, since you've already figured out that WD40 is about the most useless thing in the world for breaking loose rusty bolts...
altho, if you do have a strong enough impact wrench, then maybe- just maybe- you can use that to snap the bolts off in the middle by tightening the nuts.

well i have the sc&c uppers arms and the tall lower ball jpint so im good there... im going to get moog lower control arm bushings that should take care of everything ....as far as ther sawzal goes i can def get it in there and that is probably the way i am going to go if the impact does not work ... lastley is the dust cover for the break rotor will i be fine without one?

When I had to do this project I had the same issues.
In the end because I dont have a sawzall I ended up griding off both sides of the bolt flush with the CA mount.
Then I used a long prybar to pry the CA mount apart to get enough space in between to wiggle out the whole arm.
And novaderrik is probably right, the bushing sleeve is rusted right to the bolt.
All of them were in my case.

thanks avio ...any experience with the break swap?

I did put the dust shield on my brakes just because it came with the kit.
It should not make a difference function-wise if you have it or not, i mean afterall it is just a dust shield.
Keeps stuff from getting covered in break dust, if you can live with that then I say dont bother with it.

I put on some ssbc drop spindles and my dust shields weren't lining up so I called and asked them about it and they said "oh we didn't think people usually ran those so yes they will probably have to be modified if you want to run them" I did end up cutting them up so I could install them. I want to run some kind of duct work to them because I thought it would be neat to cool the brakes

the bolt is rusted to the inner sleeve of the bushing.

hose it down with weasel piss and keep hitting the end with a hammer, it will come loose.

you will be replacing the bolts anyway so don't worry about damaging them

I had the frozen bolt syndrome too.

I cut the bolts off with a cut off wheel and then used a air chisel on the end of the bolt and they came right out.

thanks guys will try all as soon as i can between the 2 jobs hopefully i can get off the night job tonight and try it all

I've been disassembling a 72 El Camino parts car that has a SERIOUS case of rust. My cut off wheel and my sawzall have been my two best friends on this project. Every bolt (body bushing, control arms, bumper, etc) I've had to cut off...

alright guys i tried the compressor... no go!! and my sawzal battery was dead only got one side of one bolt done..no worries....i started to remove the other upper arm i needed to do ..got it off ready to install the SC&c arms and now i look in the manual that came with the arms and there are 2 different part numbers for the left and right side and nothing on the arm it self to distinguish which is which are theyinfact the same...i dont wnat to do this job twice.....