differential removal [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: differential removal


mcase
Mar 14th, 09, 6:33 PM
I've posted recently with some questions about replacement of my 12-bolt posi unit. A problem I didn't expect was the difficulty I'm having removing the differential. I've done a search on this site, and it seems that because of the shims used, I can expect to need a small pry bar to get the unit started to come out. I'd be interested to hear from others that have done this how this went. The rear end is in the car, so I'm working from below. Also, the car has the original axles and I've been planning on replacing them with new aftermarket c-clip units from Moser or ?. Anyone have any good luck here with a particular manufacturer? Don't suppose there is anyway to tell if an existing axle is twisted, or otherwise a problem?

As always, thanks for any and all feedback!

furball8994
Mar 14th, 09, 6:42 PM
First question... Have you pulled the axles out far enough to clear the dif.???
I usually slip a pry bar under the Dif. and apply pressure from under while I pull from the top with my hand.

job68327
Mar 14th, 09, 6:45 PM
Might not be a bad idea to leave caps on loose so it doesnt drop when you pop it free.

Hrdlx62
Mar 14th, 09, 7:35 PM
And wear gloves. those teeth can bite hard!!

BigBocks66SS
Mar 14th, 09, 8:12 PM
It sounds like you need a bigger pry bar. Rotate the carrier so that you can put the pry bar in the opening where the spider gears are. I just had to remove one yesterday in an 01 Dodge Ram 4x4 front differential. The factory suggested using a "spreader" to allow enough clearance to remove it, but I don't have one of these. I had to use a 6 ft' long solid steel bar, and it came out easily. I was more worried about installation, I used a large plastic no-bounce hammer to install it. It went back in pretty easy.

big gear head
Mar 14th, 09, 8:59 PM
I use 2 pry bars. I put one behind a ring gear bolt at the top and the other behind a ring gear bolt at the bottom and I pry against the gasket surface on the housing. This has always worked for me.

Most of the time you don't have to worry about axle twist. The bearing surface is what usually scraps an axle. Check the bearing surface and if it's worn then replace them. I have used Moser, Yukon, Tom's and a few other brands of axles without any problems. I am a Moser dealer and a Yukon WD, so I can get you either one that you want. I would rather sell Moser because they are made in the USA.

mcase
Mar 14th, 09, 10:05 PM
Thanks to all for the responses. Axles are out, so that's not the problem. Two pry bars sounds like the ticket. I'll give it a try tommorow and see how it goes.