I can't take the peg leg anymore and I can't afford a regular posi so I am seriously considering this one.

http://www.powertrax.com/powertrax/nsexploded.html

lots of DDng and very little dragracing may be once a month if i am lucky. 17 X 10 rims with matching 26, 27 or 28 inch tire
looking for an 11.99 time slip

"NOT THIS ONE" http://www.powertrax.com/powertrax/lockright.html

THIS ONE http://www.powertrax.com/powertrax/noslip.html

the one i would like to get is the second one " http://www.powertrax.com/powertrax/noslip.html "

i found on E-Bay for 355 plus $10.00 shpping http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330255648892

I have no idea on how to set up a Rear. I would have to pay some one to do it SO that puts a regular posi out of my reach.

I put one in my Tahoe. Its a bit noisy at times around a corner ( no clutches, it uses flat splined "caps" and they do chatter once in a bit) , but I have no complaints.
And you can do it yourself, no setup is required. You essentially remove the axles, the spider gears, and replace the gears with the PowerTrax unit. Very straightforward. Where in NY are you? Bet we could find you a hand in doing it. 1 hour job if you have the tools ready and hustle. Might check your axles bearings before you do it. Easy enough to replace bearings ( need a slide hammer) and seals at the same time.

In FACT, if you;re using stock axles, you might jump on a set of Superiors with the cut slines. Nice and not too spendy.

"cuase your name is "turbo" I'd bet you've got some serious snot under the hood.

The No Slip is junk. The Lock Right works well. I've had a Lock Right in my 4X4 truck for over 100,000 miles and it is still working fine.

The No Slip is junk. The Lock Right works well. I've had a Lock Right in my 4X4 truck for over 100,000 miles and it is still working fine.

X2. You want the Lock Right,not the no slip. Noisier (click and clunk) but better.

I had a Loc-Right in the my chevelle as I knew i was upgrading to a 12bolt in the near future and refused to invest unnecessarily in my 8.2 10 bolt. I honestly was very pleasantly surprised with it. WAY more compliant than people think-an occasional chatter, and at parking lot type speeds you can hear a slight ratcheting from outside the car-didn't notice it until a friend moved the car for me. super easy to install as well. I have no experience with the No-Slip but it looks like they took the Loc-Right and added synchros so I would expect it to perform similiarly-being quieter/smoother.

Mine chattered around corners the first day. It's quiet now and always leaves two even patches.:thumbsup:

I can't take the peg leg anymore and I can't afford a regular posi so I am seriously considering this one.

I have no idea on how to set up a Rear. .


True, a "regular" posi is more money, but mainly the labor... I think you can get new eatons for similar prices... You'd have to spend an additional $150-$200 for labor (maybe I am off on those prices?), but doens't seem like a huge increase in price... And another $200 for new gears IF you wanted to change the ratio...

Its only money... :D


I ahd considered one before too, but I decided to change ratios anyway, so I stepped up and spend the extra money...

Set him up Freddie b/c you are the MAN!!

pdq67

Yea, I can get you the parts if you want.

got one in the chevelle. just dont goose it around sharp corners, you will spin the inside tire. I liked it so much, I bought one for my camaro after the one legged fiasco at the track. I did get the lockrite, though. jim

I have several of the LOCK-RIGHT units. They're EXCELLENT.

One is in a 12 bolt behind a 540 in a 4000lb. car with drag radials. Never fails, and works perfectly.

I have one in an 8.2 10-bolt in my Camaro. It's fine, too.

I installed a few more in friends' cars. They all love 'em.

Forget the "No Slip" unit. Use the "Lock Right" unit.

You can install it in about an hour and a half if you work very slowly.No special tools. Piece of cake.:yes:


Randy

I run one and it works very well, Lock right!!

National Drivetrain has them, good service and price. Use the Lock-right for the stoutest of the 2. Have a Buddy with a 66 SS I put one in which he proceeded to severely abuse with huge wheel hop, because of the stance ,till we put on No-Hops that fixed the hop - and the Lockright took it like a man - 502/502 w/ 400 TH. 2 black stripes and goes straight.

Summit has them for $335 for a 12-bolt, $391 for an 8.2, and $328 for an 8.5

tom has them also. pm me, i can beat the summit prices. tom

Detroit Truetrac for me..

http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/DetroitTruetrac/index.htm

Ill buy one soon. I just want both tires spinning when i hit the G....A....S and G....O....

I used a Lockrite like others for off-roading I also agree with the people about the cornering. I had a Cherokee lifted 7.5" and 35s the lockrite would kick in while cornering, it would scare the crap out of me. I found it was best to glide in the corners and lay off the gas.

The consensus is that the lock-right works
But does anyone have any personal experience with the No-Slip.

Vendors.
The car is a 1968 Chevelle with a 10 bolt 8.2 the Shipping zip is 11561 post up what you have or PM. thanks

I had a no-slip and didn't like it. I didn't like the sloppy feel in the rear end in turns, followed by a lock mid-turn which make the car lurch. I had a couple of times where one wheel spun just a bit before it locked, and it sounded like someone hit the rear of the car with a sledge hammer. I sold mine and got a good old fashioned Eaton which as been perfect. I must admit, though, it was nice to install the no-slip, cuz there was no messing with the ring and pinion like I had to do with the Eaton.

OK guys I will be going with the lock-rite INSTEAD of the NO-SLIP.
Any install tips I should know?

It comes with a very good installation manual. You shouldn't have any problems. Be sure to inspect the inside of the differential case for wear. If you have been doing a lot of one wheel burnouts then it is possible that your case is junk and the locker will not work. One wheel burnouts are very hard on the differential and causes a lot of wear on the thrust surfaces of the case and the cross shaft.

I would advise to install new thrust washers and the spider pin at the same time to close up the tolerances. Tolerances at the max may let it skip a tooth sometimes before it locks. Keep the tolerances to the tight side at install to make up for future abuse and wear. Also, if the teeth ever get worn ans skip - take the unit out and reverse it and re-install it and you have new teeth to engage like it was new, except you may not bite as well in a reverse burnout.

Thanks for the advice guys.
One last thing
Should my ten bolt with stock axels live into the VERY high 11s mostly low 12s?
The car
1-Automatic
2-street tires.
3-3800# with me in it.

i got the Lock right locker and i love it.

Great, now get out there and wear out both tires. :D

Hey Guy's I'm in a similar boat and I was wondering if any of you have an 85 Elco ? If so is the rear end upgradable? I was told a good bet is to try and find an 86 through 88 Buick GN or T-type it will bolt in?? If the stocker can be used I would just use an Eaton with a of Moser axles? The engine is a 400hp small block with a 700r4 trans.
Thanks

Your '85 will have the 7.5 10 bolt with 26 spline axles. Not the best rear end to have. The T Type and GN have the 8.5 10 bolt, which is a much better rear end. The problem is that they are VERY hard to find and expensive when you do find one. You have another choice, a new Moser 12 bolt. This will be a bolt in and you won't break it. Starts at $2200. The 7.5 can be built with a new Eaton and a set of Moser 28 spline axles. A T/A Performance cover can also help a little. Even with the best upgrades this rear end has very limited strength.

Well to be honest the rear I choose has to handle 400 plus from a small block so I think my hunt will start now Lol. I can not go for a new Moser unit at this time so I will need to go another route? Are there any other options as far as the factory goes? I do not mind moving stuff around that's just creative welding. So the one and only bolt in is the GN T-type? What are the limits of building the stocker? I will be using a 700r4 in front of it.
Thanks

The list of parts that I gave you above is about all that you can do for it. This might be enough to hold up with the 700R4, as long as traction is not good and you keep wheel hop under controll. The T Type and GN rear ends are the only bolt in rear ends that are stronger. All others have the mounts in different locations. The mounts on the axle tubes are not a big deal to move, but the eyes that are cast into the top of the housing are the big problem. There are no other rear ends that have the eyes in the same location, except for the Moser 12 bolt and some after market 9 inch Fords.

Any rear out off any G-Body will be a "bolt in"
Like Big Gear Head said you should be looking for an 8.5 rear end. They are very popular in the Turbo Regals, I have also seen them in a few Olds Cutlass



Hey Guy's I'm in a similar boat and I was wondering if any of you have an 85 Elco ? If so is the rear end upgradable? I was told a good bet is to try and find an 86 through 88 Buick GN or T-type it will bolt in?? If the stocker can be used I would just use an Eaton with a of Moser axles? The engine is a 400hp small block with a 700r4 trans.
Thanks