I've not been having very good luck with changing the points on my '73 Laguna. I've gone through three sets of new points, and I can't get the car to run with any of them.

It will crank and crank but never run. I know the dwell will need to be adjusted once it's running, but I can't get it to run to do that. I've changed the points before, sucessfully. I just put the new points in, and it ran enough to get the dwell meter on it.

I've made sure I'm hooking them up properly, and not disturbing the coil or plug wires. As soon as I put my old, worn out points back in, she fires right up.

I have set them with a match pack before (roadside swap) and that is normally close enough to get it running.....Then adjust it with a dwell meter when i get back home. Torry ever gave any thought to upgrading it to electronic or installing a HEI?

condenser built on or mounted to the side with a wire going to the points?

all points do is ground out the batt+ until the lobe opens them. Turn the engine until the point contact pad is on a lobe, set the point gap by eyeball about .020ish, fire it up and put a dwell meter on it and set em about 30°, then reset timing. Always worked for me.

Get rid of them all together. go to your local parts store and invest in an electronic replacement. never mess with them again
http://www.hot-spark.com/
There are several brands. here's one
I put them in my 65'... runs like a dream

Yeah, like Jordan said get rid of them, it's so easy. I've used these.http://www.pertronix.com/prod/default.aspx

So it's probably that they're not adjusted properly? I'll try to set them with a feeler guage to get it running. I was having a hard time believing I could get three bad sets in a row!

I've thought about going with HEI, but I've never had a problem with my old-school points (until now, that is...) And besides, in the case of a nuclear attack, the EMP will wipe out everybody's electronic ignition, but my points will work just fine. :)

I use a worn dime and then time her so that she kick's my starter back and then I turn her back a schosh and go!

It's a "feelie" and "sound" deal here from the old days!

Just like the old Mechanic's taught me as a kid.

pdq67

Make sure you don't have a wire grounded out to the distributor. I had to trouble shoot an engine one time in an auto shop class years ago. The instructor grounded the wire on the condenser so it was touching the dist and it would not fire a lick.

If none ofthe above sugestions work youhave to realize points were dead yrs ago and many are old new stock and the i have seen where the cotacst can get ozidized enoughto not work.

So if other sugestions dont work and youhave ensuresthe cond wire isnt grounde/shorted and same for wire from dist to coil then try taking come 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper and running it inbetween the points contacts prior and then cleaning themoff with electronics cleaner and or brakleen and see if that does the trick.

Set poits to a snug approx .019" and or thickness of a book of matches and that should be a good starting place to get it running so you can get the dwell set.

BTW,make sure any feeler gauges/match books you use are clean of oil/grease prior to using them to set set points.

Set dwell to 30 deg when you hopefully get it fired up.

Scott

Like I said, a worn smooth silver dime!

pdq67

Like I said, a worn smooth silver dime!

pdq67

Or for about 9 more dimes you can buy a cheap set of feeler guages!

If none ofthe above sugestions work youhave to realize points were dead yrs ago and many are old new stock and the i have seen where the cotacst can get ozidized enoughto not work.

So if other sugestions dont work and youhave ensuresthe cond wire isnt grounde/shorted and same for wire from dist to coil then try taking come 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper and running it inbetween the points contacts prior and then cleaning themoff with electronics cleaner and or brakleen and see if that does the trick.

Set poits to a snug approx .019" and or thickness of a book of matches and that should be a good starting place to get it running so you can get the dwell set.

BTW,make sure any feeler gauges/match books you use are clean of oil/grease prior to using them to set set points.

Set dwell to 30 deg when you hopefully get it fired up.

Scott

That ^ always worked best for me.

Like SWHEATON said, check for corrosion or residue on the contacts left over from manufacturing.

I always take a new set and hold them open, then I put a piece of paper, paper bag, or a matchpack between them and let them close on the paper.

Drag the paper between the closed contacts a couple times to clean the surface.

Every mowing season, I have to drag some emory cloth between the contacts of my old '51 Ford 8N tractor. That gets rid of the corrosion that builds up over the winter. It alwas starts right up after that.

As far as initial setting goes, don't even bother with a feeler gauge.

Just make sure the rubbing block is just lightly touching a flat spot on the distributor cam. NOT enough to open the points. JUST LIGHTLY. When you turn the engine over, the lobe lift will open and close the contacts enough to get it started.

That will get the GM points close enough to start, then just set them at 28-30 degrees after it starts. Don't forget to recheck the timing. Changes in dwell will change the timing.:)

I like points, too. Easy to diagnose if you have a problem. I used them for years to trigger an MSD 6AL box. They worked flawlessly, even with a 225 shot of spray. It ran the 3500lb. Olds down into the low 10's, and used as a trigger, lasted for YEARS before needing replacement.


Randy

So it's probably that they're not adjusted properly? I'll try to set them with a feeler guage to get it running. I was having a hard time believing I could get three bad sets in a row!

I've thought about going with HEI, but I've never had a problem with my old-school points (until now, that is...) And besides, in the case of a nuclear attack, the EMP will wipe out everybody's electronic ignition, but my points will work just fine. :)
I say that all the time! I 'll be like Mad Maxx, half nuked out world, beat up Chevelle, looking for all the other people w/ points driving around -lol

I've not been having very good luck with changing the points on my '73 Laguna. I've gone through three sets of new points, and I can't get the car to run with any of them.

It will crank and crank but never run. I know the dwell will need to be adjusted once it's running, but I can't get it to run to do that. I've changed the points before, sucessfully. I just put the new points in, and it ran enough to get the dwell meter on it.

I've made sure I'm hooking them up properly, and not disturbing the coil or plug wires. As soon as I put my old, worn out points back in, she fires right up.

Have someone turn the engine over with the key while you watch the point's with the distributor cap removed and out of the way. You should see a little blue spark at the point gap when they open, if you don't you have problems other than points/condenser..........

PS - Don't forget to put the rotor back in..........

So it's probably that they're not adjusted properly? I'll try to set them with a feeler guage to get it running. I was having a hard time believing I could get three bad sets in a row!

I've thought about going with HEI, but I've never had a problem with my old-school points (until now, that is...) And besides, in the case of a nuclear attack, the EMP will wipe out everybody's electronic ignition, but my points will work just fine. :)

This may, or may not be the reason that I keep a points Dist in the garage for the chevelle.

I do not like the point with built in condenser.......... It don't hold up too well to me.

I got it working! With the cap and rotor off, I adjusted them to where they were just closed (the flat part was on the rubbing block, not the "lobe") and it was enough to get it to run so I could dial it in with the dwell meter. I guess I got lucky the last time I changed them, with the new set being close enough to run out of the box. Thanks for the help, everyone!

COME ON GUYS!!! Doesn't anyone know how to set points anymore???? I know points are ancient technology, but it's like a right of passage. I cut my teeth on a 289, points were gapped at .17

Adjusted and checked them so often I could do it by eye. (not anymore :( )

I didn't have the option on setting them when the car was running.

I had a 69 Torino with a 390 and a dual point dist.

SBC .19 gap will get it running. Just rotate the engine until the points are on the top of the lobe and use a feeler gauge, keep closing the points until the feeler gauge slightly opens the points and then open them back up.

Who has had the pleasure of setting points on a Chrysler slant six? Of course the dist is on the side that is slanted down, not the other side where there is a ton of room.

Sorry, I just had to vent.

Since you can get the distributor back in wrong in the old 6 cylinder Plymouths if you mark it first, we used to pull the distributor and take it in to the kitchen table to put in new points & condenser.
It was much easier than hanging over a fender, out in the cold.

I use a worn dime and then time her so that she kick's my starter back and then I turn her back a schosh and go!

It's a "feelie" and "sound" deal here from the old days!

Just like the old Mechanic's taught me as a kid.

pdq67

Holy Shi+ Batman!
How about getting into at least the mid 1900s with a dwell meter and timing light Paul?!:D Ya know, they still sell those things at the Auto Parts Stores.:thumbsup: I'm sure your vehicles will run better too if you have a full tool box instead of an adjustable wrench and some bailing wire.:hurray:

Thing is, your feelie and sound will change with every engine combo unless you still have the same ride since high school....don't get left more than 60 or so years behind the edge of technology.:p

I love your posts Paul:thumbsup:

Agreed on the combinedpoints/condenser sets,they at times dont work that well.

I too have run the stock points setup in my396 forover 30yrs,never an issue at all,i have letterally gone thru 4-5 sets of points in 30 yrs.

And i didnt change all 5 sets ofpoints becasuse i had to but just as a maint thing to enure noproblems but they never let me down at all ,good to over 6k rpm with good setup.

Borg Warner & Accell make good points but the rubbing blocks wear quickly on them esp when running a lot of gear. But the std/blue streak hi perf points(dr2371xp) with heavier spring doesnt wear nearly as fast as the BW/Accell point do and the hip perf bl strk points are good to 6k-6,500 rpm in a dist in good cond thats tight dist.

Here is a good setup to run for reliable points ign for a mild to fairly hot street perf sbc/bbc or any gm v8 thats good to 6k -6,500 rpms.

* STD/BLUE STREAK POINTS DR2371XP WITH HI PERF-HD SPRING GOOD FOR 6K+ RPM IN GOOD COND TIGHT STOCK GM POINTS TYPE DIST.

* STD BLUE STREAK DR2270XP STD PERF POINTS ARE GREAT TOO FOR STOCK MOTORS NOT GOING OVER 5K. BUT WHEN THESE POINTS ARE NEW WITH TIGHT DIST THEY WIIL GO PAST 5K ROM TO APPROX 5,200-5.300 RPM'S BEFORE SIGHNING OFF TO BOUNCE.

* STD BLUE STREAK DR70X HI PERF CONDENSER/DR7X STD PERF CONDENSER.

* PERTRONICS STOCK LOOKING STOCK SIZE BLACK COLOR COILD THAT HIGHER OUT THEN STOCK GM COIL AT APPROX 40K VOLTS,STOCK GM IS APPROX 32K-35K VOLTS.

* PERTRONICS STOCK SIZED & LOOKING SPIRALCORE PLUFGWIRES THAT HAVE LESS RESISTANCE TOCURRENT FLOW FOR MORE JUICE TO PLUGS.

* CAP & ROTOR WITH BRASS OR COPPER TERMINALS FOR AGAIN LESS RESISTANCE TOCURRENT FLOW + MORE JUICE TO PLUGS. ANA SELL NICE ONES THAT ARE BLACK IN COLOR FOR STOCK GM LOOK AS DOES ACCELL TOO BUT THEY ARE LIGHT TAN IN COLOR.

DOING THE ABOVE UPGRADES REALLY WAKES UP A STOCK GM POINTS TYPE IGN SYSTEM AND IT WILL PERF WHEN AND RELIABLY TOO WHEN SETUP THIS WAY.

I CHK THE DWELL 1X-2X YRLY AND USUALLY ONLY HAVE TO TWEAK THE DWELL ONE OF THOS TIMES 1-2 DEG TOGET BACK TO 30 DEG DWELL RUNNING 3.31 GEAR.

I SETUP MY FRIENDS 69 FIRCHICKEN STOCK OINTS IGN LIKE STATED ABOVE WITH A 469 I BUILT FOR HIM AND HE SIFTS AT THE TRACK@ APPROX 6,500 RPMS AND THE MOTOR NEVER MISSES A BEAT . CAR IS 4SPD WITH 2355 GEAR RUNNING THU CLOSED BUT DECENT BREATHING EXHAUST RUNNING MID 12'S @ 108-109MPH WITH TRACTION ISSUES/STREET TIRES COMMING OUT OFTHE WHOLE. HE RUNS FOR FUN ONCE IN A WHILE BUT NOTHING COMPETITIVE AT ALL.

HE WANTED TO SPEND PPROX $300-$400 ON A HIPERF ELEC IGN AND I TOLD HIM TO TRY THE MUCH CHEAPER SETUP HI PERF POINTS IGN SETUP I STATED ABOVE BECAUSE I KNEW IT COULD HANDLE HIS 6,500RPM TOP END MOTOR NO PROBLEM BUT HE DIDNT THINK SO.

THAT WAS BECASUE EVERYONE ELSE TOLD HIM POINTS COULD NOT HANDLE IT AT ALL & TO HIS AMAZEMENT IT RAN FINE LIKE I SAID IT WOULD WHEN SET UP PROPERLY AND HE'S KEPT IT THAT WAYS FOR YRS NOW ,HE LIKES TO FREAK PEOPLE OUT THAT SAY NOW WAY WITH POINTS AT 6,500 RPMS AND HIS MOTOR RUNNING CLEAN THRU 6.500 RPMS SHOWS THEN WRONG. WELL I HAVE TO ADMIT I DID THE PARTS SELECTION FOR MOTOR BUILD AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE /BROKE IT IN/& THEN TUNED-DIALED IT IN FOR HIM CARB ,TIMING ,ETC TOO SO THE MOTOR IS DIALED IN WELL WHICH HELPS IT PERF WELL WITH POINTS IGN.

THE MOTOR SETUP IS A 70 OR 71 455 PONCHO PUNCHED OUT TO 469,RAM AIR 4 HEADS PORTED BY OWNER AT HOME,COMP cam's hyd FLAT TAPPET 292 CAM,AT HIS LAST STRIP RAN A SOMEWHAT SMALL FOR 469 CUBES 650CFM HOLLEY DBL PUMP,EDELBROCK TRQ INTAKE,HEADERS,COMP ROLLER TIPPED ROCKERS,SPEED PRO FORGED PISTONS-APPROX 10.0 COMPRESSION,CRANK WAS TURNED-OIL HOLES CHAMFERED-THEN WAS POLISHED,RODS WERE MAGG'D & OK-POLISHED-RESIZED-NEW BOLTS ,AND COMPLETE ROTATING ASSEMBLY WAS BALLANCED TOO.

ITS A VERY NICE STREETABLE SETUP THAT DOES FINE IN TRAFFIC THEN RUNS WELL WHEN YOU GET INTO IT ESP SINCE HE INSTALLED A 1050 DOMINATOR,BOY DID THAT WAKE THE 469 PONCHO UP,I COULDNOT BELIVE THE BEFORE AND AFTER FEELING WHEN DRIVING THAT CARS WHEN GOING FROM 650 DBL PUMP TO THE MORE CFM/1050 DOMINATOR THAT MOTOR REALLY SHOWED IT NEEDED,IT TURNED IT INTO AN ANIMAL ,NO KIDDING!!!,WHAT A NIGHT & DAY DIFFERENCE ON MID RANGETO ESP TOPEND RPM HP WIHTOUT REALL LOOSING MUCH DOWNSTAIRS THAT WE COULD FEEL. EVEN IF IT DID LOOSE A ITTLE UMPH DOWNSTAIRS IT RAN SO MUCH HARDER IN MID TO UPPER RPMS IT WOULD BE WORTH IT TO ME,FELTLIKE IT GAINED 40HP+ WITH JUST THAT CARB CHANGE. BTW HE BOUGHT THAT 1050 DOMINATOR ARE READY PRE SETUP SPECIFICALLY FOR HIS MOTOR FROM I THINK IT WAS AVANTI CARBS ,THATS WAS A FEW YRS BACK SO I AM NT 1005 SURE OF THE CARB BUILDER BUT THINKIT WAS AN AVANTI CARBS 1050 DOMINATOR

I WOULD NOT BE SURPRISED AT ALL IF HE TOOK IT BACK TO THE STRIP WITH SLICKS AND OPENED THE HEADERS THIS TIME THAT HE COULD RUN FLAT 12'S IF NOT VERY HI 11.90S DUE TO THE ADDITIONAL UMPH/POWER GOING FROM THE 650 DBL PUMP TO THE 1050 CFM DOMINATOR GOT HIM ALONG WITH WITH OPEN HEADERS AND SLICKS THIS TIME FOR BETTER BITE TOO/YEEHAAAA!!!!!!/HOLD ON!!!!/LOL!!!!!!

Btw,he has to run kemco booster even with that FAIRLY HOT 292 comp cam with 244 deg dur @.05 on a 110 LSA in his 469 poncho or it detonates. BUT RUNNING THE KEMCO ASSURES HE CAN RUN A FULL PERF IGN TIMING CURVE FOR BEST POWER WITH NO DETONATION.

SCOTT