I'm trying to hook up a dual fan that I got from junk yard I think it is off a Toyota Camry 2004.
Someone told me that I should hook it up to a temp switch on the intake and a thermo switch on the ac line by the dryer. That way it would only come on when the ac needed it to cool and would not be running when cruising highway speeds.
Do you guys think this will work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=330311290052

I'm trying to hook up a dual fan that I got from junk yard I think it is off a Toyota Camry 2004.
Someone told me that I should hook it up to a temp switch on the intake and a thermo switch on the ac line by the dryer. That way it would only come on when the ac needed it to cool and would not be running when cruising highway speeds.
Do you guys think this will work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=330311290052


I should add that both the fans have only 2 wires coming off of them.

I think is what you want is a trinary switch for the AC compressor.
This will only allow the compressor to run when there is enough pressure in the AC for the AC to work properly.
Also will activate a relay to turn on the fans when AC PRESSURE gets to to a point to where the fans are needed to reduce the line pressure.
AND will also turn off the compressor when line pressure exceeds a certain point.
(most all AC compressors cycle)

In my 59 the cooling fans come on at engine temps of about 225, or when the AC line pressure builds.

A signal from either the temp switch or the AC switch activates both relays to turn on both fans.

Might want to go to Vintage Air's website to get a schematic of the wiring.

Found this on the net. Can someone help modifiy this to use a switch (binarry,trinary swithc?) by the dryer? Also where would I add the extra fan?

http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/FanControl.jpg

I have this one stored on my pc
Not exactly how I did mine but I did follow this.
Just need to add a relay---so any condition will fire both fans.
If you would like, I will draw up how I wired mine and e-mail to you
(supposed to get satellite internet tomorrow)

Low pressure switch---all cars should at least have this---prevents AC when low on freon

Binary switch----same as above----but also cuts compressor off with high pressures

Trinary -- same as binary---but adds cooling fan control

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/Bryan59EC/trinary.jpg

You could wire it up so that the coolant fan also comes on when the refrigerant pressure gets up to a certain point.
(Only when its needed, not just anytime that the A/C is on.)

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s228/deancall/Team/FanControl_WITH_Pressure_Switch.jpg

Dean
(posting same time as me?)

That's what I was getting at-----and posted VA's drawing
I'll try to get a better one by tomorrow

Dan-----this will require invading the high pressure line on you AC
(actually any of these switches invade the AC lines)

Went ahead and drew one up this evening
This how my 59 is wired
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/Bryan59EC/Fanwiretrinary.jpg

This info is great. I have an Classic Auto Air Unit not VA, but I assume it would be close to the same. I will be looking forward to your schetch.
Here is a pic of the switch that came with the ac unit. I'm not sure if it is binary,trinary,or what.




Dean
(posting same time as me?)

That's what I was getting at-----and posted VA's drawing
I'll try to get a better one by tomorrow

Dan-----this will require invading the high pressure line on you AC
(actually any of these switches invade the AC lines)

Thanks,
1) Is the hi lo comp switch/hi fan switch in the schematic a "Trinary
switch"?
2)What is AC thermostat in the cabin ( how do I check to see if I have one on my Classic Auto Air unit?
3)Do I need to put the diaode in like in the previous shcematic?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm very green at wiring...




Went ahead and drew one up this evening
This how my 59 is wired
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/Bryan59EC/Fanwiretrinary.jpg

Might I suggest that the relay line with the 5A fuse go to the accessory line on the ignition switch so that the fans won"t be energized when trying to start the car.
All accessories are turned off when the key is in the start position.

Ron
PS the diode across the fan is a good thing but it is hard to find a place for...

Dan
The scematic is showing the trinary-----just ignore the the wires at the 'hi pressure fan switch' for the binary and low pressure.

Yours with only 2 wires is either a low pressure or a binary (high pressure/low pressure)

If you have not yet installed the AC---purchase a trinary----it would be in your best interest.

The t-stat control in the cabin should be attached to the AC case ---could have a lever or knob on it----

Vintage Air also has a switch that is replaceable w/o having to evacuate the system.
Similar to the "T" with the switch attached-----but the switch itself will unscrew from the "T" with no refigerant loss.

If you are not in a big hurry-----might give them a call and ask for a catalog
(should also come with a current price sheet in the catalog)

EDIT----closer look at the pic -- appears to have a switch that can easily be removed and replaced with a trinary ----- check to see if the "T" has a schrader valve in it. It too amy be a replacable switch w/o losing freon.

This is the schematic from my Classic Auto Air unit. I called the manufacture and they have a trinary switch fot $30. that has 4 wires coming out of it. No schematic from them as how to make their unit work with dual fan set up.
Could you take a look at this schematic and see if it would "marry up" to your schematic?
Thanks a bunch for your help!





Dan
The scematic is showing the trinary-----just ignore the the wires at the 'hi pressure fan switch' for the binary and low pressure.

Yours with only 2 wires is either a low pressure or a binary (high pressure/low pressure)

If you have not yet installed the AC---purchase a trinary----it would be in your best interest.

The t-stat control in the cabin should be attached to the AC case ---could have a lever or knob on it----

Vintage Air also has a switch that is replaceable w/o having to evacuate the system.
Similar to the "T" with the switch attached-----but the switch itself will unscrew from the "T" with no refigerant loss.

If you are not in a big hurry-----might give them a call and ask for a catalog
(should also come with a current price sheet in the catalog)

EDIT----closer look at the pic -- appears to have a switch that can easily be removed and replaced with a trinary ----- check to see if the "T" has a schrader valve in it. It too amy be a replacable switch w/o losing freon.

If the switch has 4-wires---it will work.
the switch should contain a description of each pair of wires.
could be 2 wires same color
or all 4 different colors
Important thing is to know which wires go to the clutch and which ones go to the fan relays.

Ok, got a trinary switch today. Here is a pic.
In the instructions it says that black wires to ac thermostat and ac clutch. ( I understand that part) Blue wires instructions say 1 to 12 volts power, and one to electric fan.
Should I jsut hook the blue wires up like you have drawn in your schematic?
1 to temp switch, other 1 to ground?
Does it matter which blue wire to ground?








Went ahead and drew one up this evening
This how my 59 is wired
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/Bryan59EC/Fanwiretrinary.jpg

Do it like the drawing
Not sure if that little switch would be capable of supporting one fan---let alone 2.

Those little bosch relays only use about 1/2 amp to operate, so that is what you would be connecting to the ignition.

1 or 2 amps won't overload anything --- a fan that draws 30-40 can kill some wiring.

Thanks, I will hook up the trimary like your drawing.
I have a little (relay fuse box thingy) I pulled the same time I got the dual fan set up. It has 3 relays in it that seem to be related to the ac system. Could this mean that the dual fan set up I pulled may be a 2 speed fan set up?
I would like to figure this (relay fuse box thingy) out. It looks like it would make a nice clean set up. I pulled one of the relays to look for the pin configuration but none of them are marked that I could see. The number on the relay is Denso 90084-98031.
Anway to figure out this spagetti of wires?

Here are some more pipcs of the relay box

Kinda hard to make any sense outta that block without getting the meter out.
Same as the relays----cannot say without a meter.

Might just go to a NAPA aor any other decent parts house and ask for a Bosch type relay.

Could also go back to the yard and get a few from most any 80s-90s GM product.
Some cars have about 4 of these cubed relays mounted anywhere under the hood.

I got a couple from AutoZone one day when I was in a pinch------these are not on the shelves, but behind the counter and will need someone that knows where to find them.

Some will even have a bracket to allow you to screw then right to the inner fender or firewall.

Good advice. Hopefully others are following along with this post and learning as I have.
I made a trip to the JY today. Found a relay box on a newer model Lincoln. It has 3 relays that look to be 30amp. Also has a diode. (could this be somehow used with the fans?)


Here are some pics: It looks somewhat straight forward, although only one of the relays appear to use the diode. That relay has 2 wires on the 30 postion. Also the middle relay has 2 wires on the 30 position, and 2 wires on the 85 position.
here are the pics

Your pictures show that you have an assembly that would do the job. The diode is for the EEC relay and is probably big enough to go accross one of the fans as shown in one of the schematics posted previously.
If you can read the side of the relay as you show in one of the pictures you posted it should be straight forward to relate this to the schematics that Bryan posted.

Very good posts Bryan.

Ron

Biiting at the bit to start soldering a wiring harness together but just have a couple of questions.
1) Do these relays look like they will work? They have an extra terminal (the 87A terminal)
2) Looking at the relay pack, some of the 30 position terminals have 2 wires on them. ( do I join both of those wires to the 30amp fuse to battery or just one of them?)


Good advice. Hopefully others are following along with this post and learning as I have.
I made a trip to the JY today. Found a relay box on a newer model Lincoln. It has 3 relays that look to be 30amp. Also has a diode. (could this be somehow used with the fans?)


Here are some pics: It looks somewhat straight forward, although only one of the relays appear to use the diode. That relay has 2 wires on the 30 postion. Also the middle relay has 2 wires on the 30 position, and 2 wires on the 85 position.
here are the pics

1) Do these relays look like they will work? They have an extra terminal (the 87A terminal)

87a term will not be needed in this application
This particular terminal is connected to #30 when the key is OFF


2) Looking at the relay pack, some of the 30 position terminals have 2 wires on them. ( do I join both of those wires to the 30amp fuse to battery or just one of them?)

For each relay you should have a 30amp fuse.
If there are 2 wires connect to #30, then the factory jumpered the extra wire to another relay. You can cut some off of one and tape the stub to the other wire.
The longer wire will go to the fuse.
That set actually looks like it would be the headlight relay pair, being jumpered like that.

(on my 59, I have the 'HI', 'LO', and Horn relays all jumpered thru #30)

This is a better choice than the other set of relays-----these are replacable from any parts store.

thanks for all your help! :hurray:I will post my results after I finish the harness. I hope to get started today after church.:)

Working on the wiring harness today and got to the diode part.
It just looks like the diode in the pic (1N5404) should be pointing the oppisite way to prevent back feed voltage. Am I looking at this correctly?





You could wire it up so that the coolant fan also comes on when the refrigerant pressure gets up to a certain point.
(Only when its needed, not just anytime that the A/C is on.)

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s228/deancall/Team/FanControl_WITH_Pressure_Switch.jpg

No, diode is in the correct way. It takes care of the polarity reversal from the motor (+ and - switch places as the motor winds down, the diode recirculates the current back through the motor, actually causes the motor to slow down faster than with out the diode) and prevents the relay contacts from having to take the reverse current as the relay opens. This extends the life of the relay a lot!

Besides, if you put the diode in the other way all the current would flow through the diode and not the motor. The diode would smoke, big time!
The diodes are cheap, you can find them at radio shack. Go ahead, sacrifice one by putting it in the wrong direction, it can be fun!

Ron

ok thanks.
I just saw the little triangle arrow symbol on the diode thought that denoted the direction the current would flow.
thanks for correcting me