How and what do I use to get rid of this rust? It appears to be in all the cracks and crevices. Help!!
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Wire wheel brush on a drill worked for me....

Any chemicals that I can use that work Good?

Not really. The only way to get rid of rust is to get rid of it. After you get it to clean metal, You can use a rust inhibitor but don't trust any of the "paint over rust and end it forever" crap. Rust must be removed completely or it WILL come back..

What a pain!

Welcome to the wonderful world of "classic restoration"... There are no easy ways or short cuts to any of it.. At least you don't have a lot of rust and most looks to be easy to get to.

Click on "The Rebuild" in my Sig. to see where I've been. I started 9/06 and am about 1/2 way done..

You need to wire wheel the rust out of the car and use a self etching primer. And from what what I see is surface rust, nothing deep. STOMP ON IT. I hate that crap.:sad:

Most of that will come off with 80 grit sandpaper as it looks like mostly surface rust and no pitting. Once that is done, lay a nice coat of epoxy over the metal to seal it and you won't have to worry about rust anymore.

I have used Por 15 with great success. You just treat the metal and paint right over the rust. Then you can paint. Por 15 can be purchased at any good quality paint shop. Good luck!!!

It looks like the car was primed a while ago and then exposed to moisture. Most primers are porous and don't do a very good job of protecting the base metal unless they have a top coat on them to seal the pores.

Before breaking out the wire wheels and sandpaper, I would try using one of the phosphoric acid based metal conditioners such as Metal Prep. The rust is light enough at this point that the acid should remove it with ease. Then follow up with more primer and top coat as soon as possible or at least keep it out of the elements. Mine has been in prime for years and has no rust anywhere because it has been stored inside.

Tom

Don't trust any of the "paint over rust and end it forever" crap. Rust must be removed completely or it WILL come back...


There's just one problem with that mindset Scott...

Unless you have had the body and frame of your car completely submerged for a certain amount of time in an acid solution, or something like that, then you have not completely removed all of the rust within your car.

There is no way you can completely remove all of the rust from all of the nooks, crannies, and crevices within your car, behind the quarter panels, etc., by sanding or grinding...simply because you can't get to all of those nooks, crannies, and crevices to sand them.

Even if you have your frame sandblasted, you will still have surface rust within all of your frame.

Therefore, barring an acid dip, you are left with one of two alternatives...

1) You can steadfastly adhere to that mindset and say "I will not use one of those products,"...and then drive around in a finished car that has rust within it.

2) Or...you can spray one of those products within all of those nooks, crannies, and crevices to seal any of that surface rust that you can't get to.

Personally, after dismantling my car, I didn't see any rust within it.
But, since the car is already dismantled, I didn't want to take any chances. Therefore, I used a spray nozzle extension tube and sprayed Eastwood's within all of the nooks, crannies, and crevices within my '68.
I sprayed it into all of the crevices inside of the doors.
I stuck the extension tube behind the wheel wells in the trunk and fogged lots of Eastwood's into that area.
From inside the car, I reached as far as I could with my hand and the Eastwood's can into the body beneath the rear window and fogged lots of Eastwood's into the area behind the quarter panels, etc., etc.

There is definitely a place for Eastwood's and similar products.

So, those are your alternatives.
Either acid dip the car, spray Eastwood's (or some other such product) into all of crevices and hard to reach areas...or drive around in an outwardly shiny car that has unprotected rust within it.

Regards,
-Greg

It looks like surface rust that formed while the car was sitting in prime (most primers are not waterproof). All you need to take it off is some metal prep and Scotch Brite (#7447) pads. The phosphoric acid in the metal prep will dissolve the rust and the Scotch Brite will remove it and prepare the surface for more primer. This will only work on surface rust. It won't do a thing for hidden rust in seams or behind body panels. That would require sand blasting or a chemical dip to remove.

Once you get it cleaned up and re-primed, it'll need to stay inside until you get it top coated or the rust will return.

Tom

It looks like surface rust that formed while the car was sitting in prime (most primers are not waterproof). All you need to take it off is some metal prep and Scotch Brite (#7447) pads. The phosphoric acid in the metal prep will dissolve the rust and the Scotch Brite will remove it and prepare the surface for more primer. This will only work on surface rust. It won't do a thing for hidden rust in seams or behind body panels. That would require sand blasting or a chemical dip to remove.

Once you get it cleaned up and re-primed, it'll need to stay inside until you get it top coated or the rust will return.

Tom

After the sanding pad & metal prep routine is done, shoot a sealer coat of epoxy primer. It is much more weather resistant.
Never use any POR 15 on panels that get finish paint. It works great on floor boards, inside the dash, doors, ceiling, etc.
I use a brush with it and flow it into the seam areas to seal them from rusting.

Dan

Dan

I bought some Safety Clean Etch and Prep from Home Depot. I put it into a spray bottle and sprayed it on the surface rust. I let it sit for an hour then sprayed some more and then went over it with steel wool. It all came off. I then cleaned it with water, dried it off then primed it. It has been like that for 4 months and no more rust has appeared.

There's just one problem with that mindset Scott...

Unless you have had the body and frame of your car completely submerged for a certain amount of time in an acid solution, or something like that, then you have not completely removed all of the rust within your car.

Deleted for space..

Regards,
-Greg

Greg. I didn't mean don't use the stuff. I just meant don't trust them when you can remove it. I know that there is no way to remove all but the products should be a finish to a job, Not the whole job as some of the Manufactures want you to believe.
My Impala had major surface rust on the roof. I got some of Eastwoods "Fast etch". I sanded the roof and then sprayed it. I can honestly say that it works. Some spots that looked clean turned white (converted rust). I also sprayed it into the doors and quarters to help protect them.
Here's what I was starting with.
(Thumb)
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc210/furball8994/Impala/th_000_0683.jpg (http://s217.photobucket.com/albums/cc210/furball8994/Impala/?action=view&current=000_0683.jpg)

I agree with Tom "Big flash", wipe some metal prep on it and the rust will be gone.