My 14 year old son Zachery and I are getting ready to tub his 70 Chevelle.I want to do this with out a roll bar and have the frame removable I have some ideas but if anyone has some pictures of any done like this I would appreciate the help.

We just got all the sheet metal to start the body and then we will do the frame so we have some time.I am just so glad that he wants a muscle car and not a ying ying.Thanks for any thing you have to help in this matter.

Oh by the way my name is Dave and I am from over at Team Camaro my user name over there is Pro-Street69Camaro468 thanks again for any help you all have.

Why does the frame have to be removable? That is going to be a major detractor of any type of strength to the back of the car.

Why does the frame have to be removable? That is going to be a major detractor of any type of strength to the back of the car. :yes: I don't think you can have a removable frame.

Are you asking if the body can still be removed from the frame after you back 1/2 the car?

The frame comes off the car now have you ever heard of pro-streeting a Chevelle with a removable frame.I want to modify the stock frame I would buy one already finished but he is on a budgit 'mine'.I have been talking to some builders and they say to use 1/8" wall box 3"x2" and 4"x2" to make the frame modifications but and I believe they use heavy gauge sheet metal to do the tubs and floor of the trunk to stiffen it and weld all together. I was wondering if anyone has done them seperate and if they have any pictures would help.Thanks again in advance.....

Ok, that makes more sense. I thought you wanted a removeable backhalf from the frame. It can be done, that the rear of the frame sits under the back of the trunk body mounts. For better strength I would put a 6 point bar though.

Ok, that makes more sense. I thought you wanted a removeable backhalf from the frame. It can be done, that the rear of the frame sits under the back of the trunk body mounts. For better strength I would put a 6 point bar though.
How do you think I could do this and still remove the body I not to sure about doing a roll cage...

I'll have to take a look at mine, but basically without the cage, mine is attached to the body with the factory bolts. As far as the 6 point bar, it would give you the extra support for the back half components. Basically the ladder bars are going to be 26" apart for example. Where they are going to push up in the car is unsupported. But the main hoop would be directly over the ladder bar crossmember, and you run diagonals upward from the push point on the crossmember to the main hoop. This strengthens the crossmember. Then you run the rear bars through the rear deck to the end of the main rails. Now, the main hoop is tied to the far end of the rails keeping them square. Most cars have an "X" tying the upper shock mounts to the cage, but you can put a vertical bar off of the shock point to the rear bars, tying that together. Finally you can use the prostreet door bars, that allow easier entry and exit, but they will tie the main hoop forward, again adding strength the rear clip.

I'll have to take a look at mine, but basically without the cage, mine is attached to the body with the factory bolts. As far as the 6 point bar, it would give you the extra support for the back half components. Basically the ladder bars are going to be 26" apart for example. Where they are going to push up in the car is unsupported. But the main hoop would be directly over the ladder bar crossmember, and you run diagonals upward from the push point on the crossmember to the main hoop. This strengthens the crossmember. Then you run the rear bars through the rear deck to the end of the main rails. Now, the main hoop is tied to the far end of the rails keeping them square. Most cars have an "X" tying the upper shock mounts to the cage, but you can put a vertical bar off of the shock point to the rear bars, tying that together. Finally you can use the prostreet door bars, that allow easier entry and exit, but they will tie the main hoop forward, again adding strength the rear clip.
I have done a couple unibody Pro-Street cars but never a full frame. I know the roll bar makes the chassis stronger but with out it the body if seperate will have some suport do you think.Here is my car that i finished last year.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/050606_D70_18-55_Mis047.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/052906_D70_18-200VR005.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/PICT0534.jpg
Photobucket:
http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/davidcalligan/?start=all

Looks like your car pretty much has the roll bar I described. I don't think you want to depend on any body, full frame or unibody to provide the support for a back half car.

looking to put lakewood ladderbar setup on my 71 chevelle but was wondering do you loose the lower control arm on the installation or not? This setup is in jegs for coil spring gm cars.

If you are looking for suspension upgrade, there is a lot better than the old Lakewood ladder bars. They are old technology and make the ride almost unbearable because the car becomes so stiff. If you are looking for nostalgia then go for it.