I run Mobil-1 in my daily driver...Intrepid ES 3.2L DOHC. I've owned the car since new and switched over to full sunthetic at 3000 miles. The car is almost 10 but only has 66K miles on it. I am about due for another oil change but have been noticing an intermittent ticking from the valvetrain this winter.
In a motor with conventional oil I would add MMO or Rislone at the oil change, but don't know if these are appropriate for use with full synthetic. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

I have used Rislone successfully to quiet ticking lifters. Put it in the engine and run it for a couple thousand miles before you change the oil. If it works hooray. If not, change the oil and see what fresh oil will do for the ticking. I am not a fan of oil additive for everyday use; using Rislone a temporary treatment seems better to me.

Not sure I'd put any additive in synthetic. I would look closely at both the weight I'm using and the filter. I use 5W30 in all of my drivers. Quick response in cold weather startup and plenty of protection. I also use either Purolator or Wix filters. NEVER use the Orange one. The Orange one can cause clatter at startup and don't filter down to the levels of what I would call premium filters.

Thanks, Dave. I'm a little hesitant about an additive too. I am almost certain the Mobil 1 on my shelf is 5W-30. I can't say for sure, but the filter just might be orange. I'll check it out.

Tom,

Here is the wording from one of my AERA tech bulletins:

Engine Ticking Sound On 1998-2004 Chrysler 3.2 & 3.5L VIN J, G, K, M & V Engines

The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information regarding a ticking sound on 1998-2004 Chrysler 3.2 & 3.5L VIN J, G, K, M & V engines.

This noise is associated only with cold start-up and generally lasts only for two to three seconds.
The cause of this noise may be related to the associated movement between the exhaust swivel pad, retainer and rocker arm. To help reduce the likelihood of this type of ticking sound, revised components are available. This information applies only to exhaust locations, which are different than intake assemblies.
The exhaust adjuster, rocker arm swivel kit is available with Part #05135237aa. It is important to note that this repair may be made on the vehicle.
If this repair has already been on a particular engine, the swivel pad retainers will be colored blue and the swivel pads will be copper in color on the exhaust rocker arm assembly. The revised components are different than the original components.
Remove rocker arm assembly bolts.
Remove exhaust rocker arm assemblies. NOTE: To prevent air ingestion into lash adjusters, avoid turning rocker arm assembly upside down or placing pressure on the lash adjuster.
Remove the retainers and swivel pads from each exhaust rocker arm (Fig. 1). CAUTION: This bulletin only applies to the exhaust rocker arms. Do not install these new parts in the intake as damage may occur.
Install the new swivel pads and swivel pad retainers on all exhaust rocker arms (Fig. 1). NOTE: Do not reuse original yellow retainers. Replace all exhaust swivel pads and retainers as a set.
Install the rocker arm assemblies and torque the rocker shaft mounting bolts to 275 in/lbs (31 Nm).
The AERA Technical Committee

Wow, Bill...I really appreciate you posting that. Would you believe that I read something similar on a message board a few months ago? I completely forgot and your reply was like deja vu!
I don't expect you to know the answer to this, but do you think this is a job for the do-it-yourself guy who has never really dug into an engine before? On a newer car I imagine there's a fair amount of disassembly that needs to take place in order to get to the rocker assemblies, no?
:confused:

shouldn't be too bad- it's just under the valve cover. i don't know what the 3.2 looks like, but on the 3.5 in my 94 LHS i just had to take the plenum off and pull the spark plug wires out to get to the valve covers and the rocker arms just came right off with a few bolts.

Tom,
I dont know how hard it is to get to the valvecovers, I only see the heads at my shop :) Other than that its not too bad except that when the plastic lifter retainers break it makes it a pain to get the rockers all back on without three hands.

Thanks, guys. I managed to download an electronic copy of the factory service manual yesterday. Gonna study it and decide whether I can tackle it in the driveway or not.