Any Ford mechanics here?

Got a 97 E250 with a 4.2 V6 with 86K miles that blew a timing cover gasket so it was leaking coolant pretty bad but it was running just fine.

I tore down the front of the engine and replaced the timing cover gasket and while I had it off I put back a new water pump.

Now the "service engine soon" light comes on and it seems to be idling too slow and dies when I try to take off normally.
It's ok when it's cold but starts doing this as soon as it warms up.

I borrowed a scanner from O'Reilly auto parts and got a code of P 1537 with key on - engine off but cant find anything like that code in any of the books. :confused:
With key on enging running I get something to the effect of "open intake runner - bank 1" (can't remember exactly)

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor this AM because I had broken off one of it's mounting ears. I really didn't see that the broken ear could make any difference because I still had it mounted where it belonged and I was right, it didn't help.

Stupid Ford ran fine before I messed with it so I must have done something wrong but three of us have looked it over good and can't see anything wrong.

I guess I'll have to take it to the dealer and have them fix it. graemlins/clonk.gif

The code list that came with my scanner says that Ford code P1537 means that the owner should sell the car! No, actually it says "Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 1)" Whatever that means. Code P1538 is the same stuff , but for Bank 2. Hope that gets you a little closer to success.

some of these new engines have variable intake runners, my A6 has an actuator and cable that moves a variable intake runner to change the geometry of the intake at higher rpm. Check for broken or disconnected cables or linkage around the intake runners or underneith on the right side(bank 2)or possibly a disconnected vac. hose. Sorry cant be any more specific on that vehicle

Buy a ford
Buy the best
Drive a mile
Walk the rest
sorry guys i'm clueless here but i just had to be a smart *&^

Originally posted by TOM'S 68 CONV:
Buy a ford
Buy the best
Drive a mile
Walk the rest
sorry guys i'm clueless here but i just had to be a smart *&^ :rolleyes:

Thanks guys ! (the other two) smile.gif

That's the clue I needed, I'll pull the doghouse again and see what I left disconnected now that I know where to look.

Funny that O'Reilly didn't have the list of Ford error codes. Maybe I'll print the list a take it to them.

This (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Elree/250E.JPG) may help.

Intake manifold runner position sensor 1 brings in code 1537. It should have 12 V on red and .5 or grater on white\orange. You may have lost the ground to it.

Thanks Elree, where did you find that picture?

I googled "intake manifold runner open" & intake manifold control" and came up with quite a bit of information.

Well I went out this morning and found the IMC valves and started checking around and guess what,
I found a vacuum line disconnected at some tank or box looking thingy next to the frame under the passenger's side door.
I disconnected the battery cable to reset the code, let it warm up and went for a test drive and all is ok now (so far anyway) smile.gif

Don't know how or why the vacuum line became uncoupled there except I was welding up a couple of cracks in the exhaust pipe elbow close by so I must have knocked it off.

Thanks again, I knew I could count on y'all

Dean

I have access to Mitchell OnDemand 5. Beats the heack out of running to the library every time I need electrical trouble shooting info. Covers everything 84 to present.

Hey Elree, how does that compare to Alldata?
I have been using that for some time and its ok but could be better.
Glad you got it fixed Dean graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I'm not familiar with Alldata. I've been using Mitchell's, at the library, for years. Mostly the wiring diagrams, component locations and trouble codes.

Dean, what are you doing with a Fix Or Repair Daily? Maybe you ought to arrive a little at the next Chevelle Club meeting and see if Superior will take it as a trade-in.

test

Sorry guys. I'm trying to determine why signature works sometimes and not other times.