I have a stock 12-bolt rear end with a new eaton posi unit and motive gear 3.73 ring and pinion. I had a shop install the posi and gears some time back. I am in the process of cleaning up the old housing of rust and grease and I plan to buy a new drum brake setup for the rear also. I need to take off the old drum assemblies and plan to replace the stock axles with new Moser's. I want to know specifically what I need to do to remove the axles so that I can remove the current "old and rusty" drum systems as well as replace the axles with new. I do not plan on C clip eliminators at this point and the axle bearings are new.

This car will be raced mostly, 650hp, T-400 w/ manual valve body.

Thanks for any and all help and advice ;)

you need to remove the rear cover, remove the bolt/pin that retains the center shaft, remove the center shaft, commonly called a quill, you don't have to remove it all the way, just enough so the axels can move in enough so the c-clips can drop out. once the c-clips are out put the back in, and put the bolt pin back so it doesn't get lost.

If you go with c-clip eliminators you will not need to remove the quill to reinstall the axles, use some locktite to put the retaing bolt/pin back in. In fact if your going with c-clip elim's you can put the rear cover back on.

um the one thing I dont agree with up above is the locktight or the pin will seeze and it will break next time you need to service the rear. also I would use a magnet to retrive the c clips and if you put them back in use a magnet then to cause the space is tight and you will never get your fingers in there on a posi unit.

A telescoping magnet is one of the BEST tools for c-clips, I also use really long needle nose pliers, they work quite well also.

A telescoping magnet is one of the BEST tools for c-clips, I also use really long needle nose pliers, they work quite well also.
yep thats what I was talking about Dave

you need to remove the rear cover, remove the bolt/pin that retains the center shaft, remove the center shaft, commonly called a quill, you don't have to remove it all the way, just enough so the axels can move in enough so the c-clips can drop out. once the c-clips are out put the back in, and put the bolt pin back so it doesn't get lost.

If you go with c-clip eliminators you will not need to remove the quill to reinstall the axles, use some locktite to put the retaing bolt/pin back in. In fact if your going with c-clip elim's you can put the rear cover back on.

Sorry, but can you clarify a bit. I know nothing about the rear. Describe the bolt/pin, center shaft, quill, etc... and a procedure if possible. thanks

Sorry, but can you clarify a bit. I know nothing about the rear. Describe the bolt/pin, center shaft, quill, etc... and a procedure if possible. thanks
when you take off the cover there will be a center pin it has a small cross bolt you may have to rotate the center section to find it once found use a 5/16" wrench to loosen the crossbolt this is what holds the center pin in place becarefull here if you try and turn it and it dont move try tapping the wrench lightly with a small hammer the crossbolt heads snap off very easy and if that happens you will have to drill out the center pin to get it out that is not a fun job. one the cross bolt is out the center pin will slide out you dont need to take it all the way out just slide it down enough to slide the the axles them selves in enough to release the c-clips this is where a magnet coes in to retrive the c-clips. the install is the exact opposite of the removal hope this helps.

http://www.rsgear.com/catalogs/Diff/Dana_GM44_3.pdf

check out this link it may help alot

when you take off the cover there will be a center pin it has a small cross bolt you may have to rotate the center section to find it once found use a 5/16" wrench to loosen the crossbolt this is what holds the center pin in place becarefull here if you try and turn it and it dont move try tapping the wrench lightly with a small hammer the crossbolt heads snap off very easy and if that happens you will have to drill out the center pin to get it out that is not a fun job. one the cross bolt is out the center pin will slide out you dont need to take it all the way out just slide it down enough to slide the the axles them selves in enough to release the c-clips this is where a magnet coes in to retrive the c-clips. the install is the exact opposite of the removal hope this helps.

http://www.rsgear.com/catalogs/Diff/Dana_GM44_3.pdf

check out this link it may help alot

Thanks very much. :)

NO problem that is what we are here for to help each other

The 12 bolt will not have a 5/16 head on the retaining bolt. It will be a 1/2 inch head. I never heard the cross shaft called a quill before, and I've been in the rear end business for over 25 years. I always use blue Loktite on the retaining bolt when I put it in. This has nothing to do with the bolt breaking. The bolt breaks because of the movement of the cross shaft. When you remove a retaining bolt and it is broke, then it was already broke before you tried to remove it. The link to the Dana 44 doesn't show c clip axles. The Dana 44 doesn't use c clips. The axles are retained by pressed on axle bearings and bolt on retainers.

One thing that no one mentioned are the thrust washers that fit between the spider gears and the housing.

Once you take out the cross shaft and the axles, there is nothing but the stickiness of the remaining lube holding them in place...and they are a b**ch to get back in...in the right place.

When the first one slid out of place, I grabbed some thin baling wire and inserted it in both the cross shaft and axle holes to hold them in place, then reinserted the one that slipped out using a flex shaft "grabber" and a lot of patience.

Remove the bailing wire, 1 at a time as you reinsert each axle and then the cross shaft.

definately replace the axle bearings. there is a little trick to it i found by trial and error. the slide hammer tool has claws that need to be inserted beyond the taper bores, then tighten as much as possible then slide hammer the races out.
two hot shot mechanics came by and neither one of them got mine out. using thier tool I did it in ten minutes during halftime of the alabama / auburn game...

The new Eaton Posi has a lip on the inside edge of the thrust washers that keeps them in place. They can not slip out unless the gears are turned so that the gears also come out.

The new Eaton Posi has a lip on the inside edge of the thrust washers that keeps them in place. They can not slip out unless the gears are turned so that the gears also come out.

What fun is that? l:)

X2 on the axle bearings and seals.

Thanks again for all the input and clarification. It sounds like I should be able to do this myself fairly easily..

The 12 bolt will not have a 5/16 head on the retaining bolt. It will be a 1/2 inch head. I never heard the cross shaft called a quill before, and I've been in the rear end business for over 25 years. I always use blue Loktite on the retaining bolt when I put it in. This has nothing to do with the bolt breaking. The bolt breaks because of the movement of the cross shaft. When you remove a retaining bolt and it is broke, then it was already broke before you tried to remove it. The link to the Dana 44 doesn't show c clip axles. The Dana 44 doesn't use c clips. The axles are retained by pressed on axle bearings and bolt on retainers.
well that was the only exploded veiw of a rear axle I had. I figured it would help by showing the names of the parts and help to figure out what he needed to do. sorry I didnt have a 12 bolt exploded veiw also my 12 bolt has a spool. I have had it apart but I have never taken apart a 12 bolt with a regular carrier unit I have only done 10 bolts but the concept is the same. so that is why I said 5/16 that is what the 10 bolts I have worked on had. so I only could go by my experiances. but it is good to know the 12 bolt has a 1/2" head on the bolt been thinking of putting in a posi unit in place of my spool.

With everyone's input and a few pic's found by searching Google images, I was able to remove my axles last night in about five minutes. A little info and some images can make all the difference. Thanks again Big Gearhead. ;)