Well, after looking at all my options on wiring I don't want to spend $1000 on a factory fit harness that will need to get hacked apart. I think if it's a 100% correct resto I would do it. However, since I am going with lots of additional aftermarket stuff the 20102 looks to be a good fit. For $500 it has most everything I need and don't think I'll need to hack apart a nice new factory harness. My original harness is not looking great after seeing everything else that is brand new on the car. Anyone have problems with this kit?

Additional Parts:
AutoMeter Phantom Gauges in replacment of factory
Dual Electric Fans
Fuel Injection
Electric Fuel Pump
3 wire Alternator

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=20102&SearchAll=Street%20Machine

Well, after looking at all my options on wiring I don't want to spend $1000 on a factory fit harness that will need to get hacked apart. I think if it's a 100% correct resto I would do it. However, since I am going with lots of additional aftermarket stuff the 20102 looks to be a good fit. For $500 it has most everything I need and don't think I'll need to hack apart a nice new factory harness. My original harness is not looking great after seeing everything else that is brand new on the car. Anyone have problems with this kit?

Additional Parts:
AutoMeter Phantom Gauges in replacment of factory
Dual Electric Fans
Fuel Injection
Electric Fuel Pump
3 wire Alternator

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=20102&SearchAll=Street%20Machine

That kit looks like it will do what you need it to do. I like the fact that it has the factory type bulkhead connector as opposed to a more generic kit along with the proper TS and Ignition switch connectors. Good Choice.:thumbsup:

My only issue with this harness, and most all other Painless kits, is their use of crimp connectors. It makes for a less than professional job, but that's just my opinion. If it were me I would get rid of the crimp connectors then solder the connections, or use something like Weather-Pack connectors where necessary. Again, just my opinion.

I installed this myself in my 69 with no problems at all. It was my first big wiring job and i got it done with no real issues. I agree to use the weather tite connectors.

I installed this myself in my 69 with no problems at all. It was my first big wiring job and i got it done with no real issues. I agree to use the weather tite connectors.

You have any pics of your installation? Any snags you ran into?

Jason, I had no big problems with this 20102 on my 69. Small things, yes. The group of wires from fuse block to column were slightly short, but worked. They should have the bugs out since i purchased mine. Otherwise i would buy again. Solder gun needed.
Find the "flex braided" wire covers to dress up wires under hood.

I didnt really take any pics. The only snag I remember is I had a problem with a marker light that was causing a backfeed of power. (If you pushed the brake pedal all the parking and dash lights would come on.) The clip that hooks into the front lower parking light was causing a short between the two spade terminals. I re-used some of my old lighting harness to splice into the painless. I also had a an issure the front side marker lights would go off once you pulled the headlight switch all the way to lights, that was just a simple jumper wire at the HL switch. The steering column, high beam switch heater controls, and a few other things were all plug and play. You have to make the steering column clip but its real easy. Just be careful and do it right the first time, the clips dont like to come back out of the big clip.