I have read so many posts giving them high praise, I just had to get one.

Starts with a BRAND NEW box:
Full disassembled
Hand mic every ball and replace as needed
Re-valve box with R&P valving
Zinc plate case
Blueprinted internals to racing tolerances
Dyno tested on bench

From Marcus at SC&C
"the 670 box it is worth it. You save about 6.5lbs. which is nice and it`s a bit smaller which is nice too but the big difference is the valving. When they say they have "rack and pinion valving" it`s not marketing double talk for tuning them to feel more like a rack and pinion it means that the actual hard parts of the valving are made in the same manner,using a one piece spool valve and stub shaft that gets rid of the play in the older 800 series 2 piece/floating system. The sizing of the valve gear is also different. This is a big part of what makes racks feel more responsive and precise than older boxes and the 670 box has it too"

I'm sending my Power Steering pump out to Lee for rebuild to match & be dynoed with my 670 box.

BBP

How does one dyno a steering gear box?

I'm on the fence about a Lee gear box. I can't seem to find anyone who first got a new GM unit, decided they didn't like it, then upgraded to a Lee and decided it is the cats meow. Or, if someone has gone the Jeep Cherokee (new) route in comparison instead of the GM, I'd like to see that review as well.

What are you doing for steering shaft and coupler?

You dyno a steering box by measuring required input force over a range of outputs and verifying that the boost characteristics are equal to both left and right. You also verify that boost comes in at the desired effort levels and goes out where desired. The hydraulic control valve is a very sensitive and sophisticated little critter.

I was able to specify stock flair hose fittings instead of the metric.

Stock steering shaft at this point, I guess I don't see why I should change it?

New Manual Rag-joint 3/4-30 Stiffer & a bit thicker than P.S. (besides I already have it).

BBP

Please keep us informed about what you think about the box. I am looking at doing the same thing as soon as I can scrape up the cash for it though the price always give me pause. The Jeep boxes are so much cheaper that I could go with one of them sooner so I would really like to know that the Lee box is worth it.

Buddyholly. I sent you a PM about your 4L80e swap. Did you get that?

Yup, just replied to your PM

Any updates?

bump, I am thinking about one of these. Updates would be great!

I just did the Jeep box myself, used a junkyard unit for $75, a rag joint off of a '81 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup and a pressure line off of a '80 Camaro.

You also have to grab the return line as well for the metric 'o' ring fittings (Jeep box is metric and machined for the o ring setup), plus the spring and pressure valve out of the donor vehicle, I picked an '85 Olds Cutlass, just because it was convenient. Pitman arm off of your car, the Jeep box will not work.

Can't say enough good things about it, I love it compared to my stock box :)

So did you fit it and how do you like it ?

how is this box working out man?

i want to upgrade my jeep box and this seems like the best way.

honestly i didnt notice any difference with the stock ps box vs the jeep box. slightly less lock to lock, but not precise like i would like it.

aaron

I just got mine on the road, have a box Lee built for me yrs ago. Think I got an F body box out of the graveyard gave him my Elky box and told him to make it quick ratio. It isnt quite as quick/darty as my C4 was but defintely quicker than stock and YES, it does have sort of a rack and pinion feel to it, little more effort in the wheel, I like that' steering feels heavier.

Before it was pinky steering but although the box was slow it was too sensitve I think. this one feels dumbed down some I like it overall.

Seems to be a smidge of play in the middle which I think can be adjusted out. I tried to take the cover off once I got it back, found I had no business doing it so tighteneed everything so I may have put it out of whack

Overall worth it, adds a nice little more modern feel to the car.

I got some new Lines Lee made for me in the bag Im not using them, made my own for diff. power steering pump setup.

Here's my box update (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293826) by PSC. No cores needed. O-Rings = No leaks. It all bolts up without surprises. Example: stock rag joint, keyed pump pulley. Just needed the Camaro hose. Looks purdy too.

I just got mine on the road, have a box Lee built for me yrs ago. Think I got an F body box out of the graveyard gave him my Elky box and told him to make it quick ratio. It isnt quite as quick/darty as my C4 was but defintely quicker than stock and YES, it does have sort of a rack and pinion feel to it, little more effort in the wheel, I like that' steering feels heavier.

Before it was pinky steering but although the box was slow it was too sensitve I think. this one feels dumbed down some I like it overall.

Seems to be a smidge of play in the middle which I think can be adjusted out. I tried to take the cover off once I got it back, found I had no business doing it so tighteneed everything so I may have put it out of whack

Overall worth it, adds a nice little more modern feel to the car.

I got some new Lines Lee made for me in the bag Im not using them, made my own for diff. power steering pump setup.
I have a 69 ELKY that I did the same gear box swap. Lee also did the rebuild on the box. Which is out of a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee. You mentioned that there is a little play I have the same thing, about 1/2 inch or less. Also the steering is a little "heavier" gives a nice feel, heavier is a good description. I am using a type II pump, since I swapped an LS and 4L60E into the car. Are you using a stock pump? One other issue I have encountered is the steering wheel does not re-center with out help. Other than that it works great.

Have a good one,

Bill

We actually have 4 ratios available in this box also and they are brand new, no junkyard picking.

One other issue I have encountered is the steering wheel does not re-center with out help. Other than that it works great.


Couldnt answer the recentering thing as I did my whole front end at the same time.

I used an aftermarket pulley/pump with remote reservoir system seems to work great.

...One other issue I have encountered is the steering wheel does not re-center with out help. ...
Centering is a product of suspension geometry and there really is not anything that the steering system can do about it. If you want more centering you need to add some caster. Factory specs on these cars called for 0* caster but performance settings are to put as much positive caster as you can get with the stock parts. You may only be able to get to about 3-5*, but that will help the centering.

I just did my motor swap and my Lee steering box. Feel is great but I have a centering issue too. I am running adjustable upper A arms with a lot of caster already, 6 degrees or more. I am not running much toe in. I am going to try adding some toe in and see if it helps. The problem is the stiffness of the Lee box makes small corrections difficult, so keeping the car on track is difficult. Feel otherwise is great. I am also going to try new tie rods and see if i have some play in them I don't realize. They are about the only thing in the front end I have not replaced in recent years.